Video Footage of the 2008 Olympic Mountain Biking Course
August 19, 2008 by Carl Martens
Filed under Uncategorized
Before the 2008 Olympic games began there was a test event in 2007 in which the following footage was video taped. The videographer is German, Manuel Fumic who during one of his traning sessions attached a camera to his helmet and while riding Laoshan Mountain capturing the footage that is split into two episodes.
The video is not of the highest quality, but nonethelss it will provide an opportunity to see the trail the Olympic athletes will be riding.
How to Keep Your Girl Riding (and Retain Domestic Bliss)
August 18, 2008 by Tracey McCormick
Filed under Tips
Congratulations. You’ve cleared the first hurdle and taken your girl on her first mountain bike ride, and she’s still speaking to you. Nice job.
Maybe you made an agreement: she tries mountain biking, and you’ll try scrapbooking. Maybe she’s wanted to get into riding all along but was too scared. Maybe you followed my advice. Maybe, just maybe, she really likes it. The question is: How do you keep her riding?
Below are five more tips on how to keep her on the trail and your relationship solid.
Tip #1 Repetition removes resistance.
Resist the urge to move your girl to an intermediate ride. It’ll bore you to tears, but you need to keep the technical and aerobic challenge levels the same so she can progress at her own pace. This pace will seem glacial to you. Be patient. She’ll let you know when she’s ready to move up.
Tip #2 You’re her mechanic.
Don’t burden her, in the early stages of the learning curve, with knowing how to adjust her cables or even put her front wheel on properly. Check her bike before every ride. Yes, eventually she will have to learn how to fix a flat and lube her chain, but remember she probably didn’t grow up tinkering with her dad in the garage like you did. Cut her some slack.
Tip #3 Continue to watch your language.
As your lady becomes more comfortable on her bike, encourage her to push her limits. Do it carefully, though. If you notice she’s walking her bike over the same rocky patch, encourage her this way, “Great job looking twelve feet in front of you while riding. Keep doing that when you come up on rocks, and you’ll glide over them.” Compliment, then encourage. Sorry, but we’re delicate creatures.
Sherman Branch – Section One
August 17, 2008 by Mickey
Filed under Uncategorized
Sitting in the office plugging away at work, I glance up at the computer’s clock… it’s 4:00PM. Ride time is getting close and I’m ready to cut out of the office. I check the trail conditions online to see if the gate is open and send out emails to my riding buddies to let them know I’ll be there. Lucky me, the Sherman Branch mountain bike trails are only 2 miles from my office and it’s time to split.
At the trail head I check the bike, the gear… I’m all set. My buddies are all here and it’s time to roll in.
Sherman Branch is not what I would call a difficult trail, in fact it is quite easy for the most part. But that also depends on how fast you roll! I myself like to roll as fast as I possibly can, pushing myself and my bike to our limits. This makes the trail technically more difficult and the speed you can maintain is a blast! Don’t get me wrong, there’s a few climbs that will get your heart rate up a bit, but all in all… this is a fast flowing rolling trail that screams “GO FASTER!”
The first thing you’ll notice when you enter the trail is that it snakes through the woods of Sherman Branch, with tight corners that can get a little loose during dry conditions. As you roll down the trail you’ll hit a few small log jumps, narrow bridges and continue to snake your way through the tight corners of the trail.
Mavic 29er TN 719 DISC Rim Review
August 16, 2008 by Kovas Lapsys
Filed under Uncategorized
MAVIC’s Answer
Up until recently, the 29er crowd had few options for quality rims. The choice was either go cheap, or go broke. It meant accepting a stock wheelset, which often used a modified hybrid or road rim simply labeled for 29er use, or taking out a second mortgage to purchase for a race-quality aftermarket wheelset. There seemed to be little or no middle-ground for the riders hoping to upgrade their heavier stock wheels, or the wheel builder looking to build a solid set.
With more bike manufacturers accepting the 29er platform, tire and rim makers have also stepped up their game. In 2008, Mavic released its TN 719 rim. Mavic touts it as the rim for “29er addicts” built from the ground-up for the rigors of true off-road duty. No longer a modified road rim, the TN 719 is being offered as the rim for those choosing to go the 29er route while still allowing for traditional hub and spoke options. Building a strong 29er rim is a fine balance between weight and strength. Build it too heavy and the rotational weight will be amplified by the larger diameter size of 29” wheels and tires. Build it too light, and the rims will flex more noticeable than on smaller diameter 26” cousins. The TN 719 is Mavic’s answer to this equation.
First Look
Sometimes a component just ‘looks the part’ before you even mount it on your ride. The TN 719’s give a sold first impression. Out of the box, the taller profile of the TN 719 is immediately noticeable. In your hands, the rims look and feel stout, though at the same time light. Mavic’s SUP machining leaves every surface and weld on the rim smooth and clean, a very uniform and balanced look. Mavic has perfected their clincher system, and the Maxis tire beads seated themselves perfectly the first time through, with little to no adjustment being necessary. In the truing stand, the rims were Mavic-true. The French company doesn’t let any rim leave the factory without testing its trueness, and the TN 719 rims are no exception. Naturally, I was going to hold out for the ‘true’ test after giving them some good off-road time.
On an aesthetic note, I should mention that the dark ebony rims contrasted nicely with the big bold white graphics. They gave my bike a beefier and tougher face. Looks don’t matter much, but they do when it’s your ride… right?
Tech Specs
A deeper V-profile than previous road-adapted rims, the TN 719 is built for the demands of today’s big-wheel crowd. Unlike the previous A317 rim from Mavic, which was essentially a road-rim built for commuting and later adapted for light 29er duty, the TN 719 has been designed to be mountain-bike specific. Available in either 32 or 36 hole drillings, the single-eylet rims are built comfortably light at 510g, but Mavic’s proprietary rim material, dubbed “Maxtal”, is not spared to make the rims stupid-light. Although it does not share the extensive machining and scalloping of its more expensive race-light brothers, the stout build of the MAVIC TN 719 will last you multiple seasons, without making your wheels feel like boat anchors. Compared the earlier A317 Disc rim from Mavic, the TN 719 saves you a generous 28 grams per wheel. Currently, Mavic only produces the TN 719 as a disc-specific rim. V-brakes or other rim-brakes are not an option as the TN 719 has a very short sidewall that does not accommodate brake pad wear. Lastly, Mavic does not sell the rim as a tubeless “UST” design. Although compatible with Mavic’s tubeless system as an aftermarket option, the rim does not ship tubeless-ready. Read more
HammerSchmidt Who? We’ll All Know Real Soon
August 15, 2008 by Dave Rouse
Filed under Uncategorized
Trends and styles of riding have burgeoned in recent years; almost always as a result of the constantly evolving technology that is present in the sport. The early 90’s yielded suspension to the mountain biking community which many feel has been the greatest advance in the sport of mountain biking to date. In spite of this, some traditionalists have dismissed this development and fully embraced the simplicity of the fully rigid frame. While the significance of suspension may be debatable to some, especially with the evolution in frame geometry, production of disc brakes, and improvements in wheel and tire design, SRAM has boldly added another contender to the debate, the Truvativ HammerSchmidt front shifting line, that should make any rider of any style momentarily recede from the debate and eagerly await their chance to try out this new advancement. Leaving the front derailleur obsolete, the HammerSchmidt is a breakthrough in front transmission technology that provides the same benefits of a duel ring system neatly packed into one single ring.
The Truvativ HammerSchmidt will overcome many of the problems encountered with a two or three ring system. Riding with traditional two or three ring systems require constant attention and planning in response to the approaching terrain. In fact, shifting is an art that requires careful timing to successfully shift your front derailleur, especially in situations with abrupt terrain changes. A surprise incline can leave you in a precarious situation as you desperately try to keep the pedals moving in order to guide the chain to the lower ring. Similarly, many chainring teeth are ravaged as they unsuccessfully clear trail obstructions, or an unsuspecting rider is granted the surprise of zero chain tension as they begin to crank upwards after a bumpy downhill jolted the chain completely off of the rings. The HammerSchmidt should successfully evade all of these problems, all the while packaged into a cool, sleek design. Read more
How to Get Your Girl to Ride (Without Her Dumping You)
August 14, 2008 by Tracey McCormick
Filed under Tips
Lucky you. After years of agonizing bachelordom you finally found a great girl. She understands your need to control the universe of the remote. She doesn’t nag you about the toilet seat. She’s a gourmet cook. Maybe she even enjoys Sportscenter. She’s athletic and beautiful and sexy and she loves you.
But she doesn’t ride. Why not?
Maybe she’s not comfortable on a bike. Or maybe she’s comfortable on a bike but has visited you in the emergency room too many times. Could be some past boyfriend ruined any chance of her ever riding again. Probably she thinks mountain biking is too hard core.
But wouldn’t it be great if the two of you could ride together? Wouldn’t it be cool if once a week the two of you could go for a jaunt or if (someday) she could come along on a group ride?
Well, she can, but she’s going to need your help. Below are Tracey’s Top Ten Rules for getting your girl to ride. The rules don’t guarantee success but might increase your chances.
Rule 1 Start the discussion.
Begin talking about how great it would be if the two of you rode together. Promise it’ll be just the two of you until she’s ready to ride with others. If she has girlfriends who ride, encourage her to ride with them a few times before she ventures out with you. If she doesn’t have any female friends of the dirt variety, find a local group of strictly female mountain bikers and drive her to her first ride. She’s intimidated by your riding ability, the sport, and her own insecurities. Tread carefully.
Rule 2 Do not overinvest.
If she doesn’t have a bike, borrow one or get a used one cheaply. Buy only the essentials: bike shorts, glove, and a helmet. A thousand dollars is a lot of money to spend on what could turn out to be only a one-day outing. You don’t want her to feel guilty about the $600 Trek spending the rest of its years in the garage.
Rule 3 Tell her the basics.
Knowing how to corner is important, but not necessary for the first ride. The most intimidating, confusing, and important things about mountain biking are shifting and braking. Give her a lesson on shifting gears and using the back brake. Tell her about cross-chaining so she doesn’t work against herself. Do this in the parking lot right before the ride so she remembers. Teach her trail etiquette and explain why uphill riders have the right-of-way. Stop there. Answer her questions, of course, but resist the urge to tell her about torque and ratios. Her eyes will glaze over under the haze of too much information.
Rule 4 Start slow.
Maybe your girl is a yoga instructor or world-class skier. Doesn’t matter. Take her on a beginner ride. Remember mountain biking is an inherently dangerous sport. Just because she’s in shape doesn’t mean she’s ready for an intermediate trail. She needs to focus on braking, gearing, and trail etiquette. Throw a rock garden or steep uphill into the mix and the chances for failure increase exponentially.
2008 Olympic Mountain Biking in Beijing
August 13, 2008 by Carl Martens
Filed under Uncategorized
It is said that right now all eyes are on Beijing. If this is the case then that means those of us who are fans of mountain biking should have our eyes turned to China as well. However many mountain bike enthusiasts may not realize that there is actually a reason for us to pay any attention to the 2008 Olympic Games.
While it is true that there is not much coverage of it, there is a mountain bike section to the Olympics. More correctly titled cross country cycling, this is the event where the best mountain bike riders in the world get to strut their stuff. So what exactly is this race all about?
The race will take place at Laoshan Mountain Bike Course located in Laoshan, Shijingshan District. The course includes two competition service buildings, remedy for 4.6 kilometer course and fixture for the starting and finishing areas.
The construction of the course makes use of the natural landscape of Laoshan Mountain and does not even use concrete and steel for consolidation but instead uses weaving bags with soil in them.
Olympic mountain bike races are held on courses consisting primarily of forest roads, fields and earth or gravel paths; paved and tarred roads cannot exceed 15 percent of the total course. A cross-country course includes technical descents, steep climbs, single track and river crossings. Competitors may negotiate sections of the course while riding their bike or walking alongside it. No support crews are allowed on the course, meaning riders are required to make all necessary repairs by themselves. The fields for the men’s and women’s mountain bike races will be 50 and 30, respectively. For each race, a country can have no more than three competitors; allocation is based on where nations were ranked in the world at the end of 2007.
While little other information is available I am sure that the race will go through some of the beautiful landscape that surrounds Beijing and will be worth watching. If you want to set your DVR the best schedule I could find for when the races will actually be televised is the following.
Women’s Mountain Bike
FRIDAY, AUG. 22 – DAY 14
MSNBC
5:00am – 5:00pm
Men’s Mountain Bike
SATURDAY, AUG. 23 – DAY 15
NBC and NBC HD
12:30am – 5:00pm
Find out who the U.S.A. has racing in the event
View video footage of the trail
The Presidential Five
August 10, 2008 by Tracey McCormick
Filed under Uncategorized
Bring your mountain bike if you’re heading out to Denver for the Democratic National Convention, August 25-28. The five singletrack rides spotlighted below are part of Jefferson County’s Open Space Parks, less than an hour from Denver. They’re guaranteed to make you feel like the leader of the free world, if only for a day.
Dakota Ridge, the Teddy Roosevelt Ride
Locally known as Dinosaur Ridge, this short, technically punishing ride is so named because of its proximity to dinosaur tracks. You’ll need the speed of the Rough Riders to glide over the many rocky sections and nerves of steel to navigate the triceratops-shaped ridge. Clear the waterbar steps on one of the ride’s few ascents, and you’ve conquered San Juan Hill all over again. Expect to shed blood. Don’t even think about doing this as an out-and-back. Take CO Hwy 26 back to your car.
Mt. Falcon, the Harry S Truman Ride
The buck stops at Mt. Falcon—you’re either in shape or you’re not. If you are, access Mt. Falcon from the east lot for maximum executiveness: ascending 1800 feet in just under four miles. Nothing in the climb is too steep or too technical, so clearing the Castle Trail from the parking lot to the stone shelter on top is possible but difficult. Head out in early morning because either the sun will bake you or the lightning will hit you, depending on Mother Nature’s mood. Regardless of when you go, bring as much water as you can carry. When you’re done, light up a cigar. You’ve earned it.
Three Sisters, the JFK Ride
You don’t have to be a philanderer to enjoy the Three Sisters. Shade, shade, shade is the name of the game here. Situated in woodsy Evergreen, this is the perfect intermediate ride if you start from the east (first) lot along Buffalo Park Road. Ascend the Evergreen Mountain East Trail’s 600 feet of elevation in just under two miles, and ponder your own Profiles in Courage (or have lunch) on the big boulder along the Summit Trail loop at the top. Carefully navigate your way down the Summit Trail’s loose gravel and zoom through the off-cambered stretches of trail between the tight switchbacks of Evergreen Mountain West. Take a left onto the aptly named Wild Iris trail, cross Buffalo Park Road, and take Silver Fox to Ponderosa to the Three Sisters trail, a technical maze of switchbacks and boulders that will test your mettle and lead you back to your car. If you clear all the sandy, rocky, boulder-lined switchbacks, you’ve earned the presidential physical fitness award.
Apex, the Abe Lincoln Ride
Honestly one of the most demanding rides along Denver’s Front Range. Park at Heritage Square and enjoy a short warm-up before the Apex Trail becomes steep, rocky, twisty, and exposed. For much of its 2.8 miles, the Apex Trail hugs its way around an oversized hill. The reward for your hard work is the Enchanted Forest, a 1.3-mile connector whose loamy dirt and high pines make you think you’re in Lincoln’s birthplace, minus the log cabin. Connect back to the Apex Trail and keep up your speed for the deserved downhill back to the car.
Duct Tape: It Holds the Universe Together…and Inner Tubes Too!
August 8, 2008 by Richard Martens
Filed under Tips
If there is one thing that sucks almost as much as severe bodily injury then it has to be getting a flat in the middle of the trail. While there are some articles on what to bring with you in case this happens, there is not one that actually tells you how to fix a flat when you are in the middle of no where.
In an ideal world, everyone carries enough patch kits with them to fix every flat they will ever get. However any experienced mountain bike rider will tell you that sometimes the trail gods hate you and it seems like you get a flat every time you pedal a full rotation. In these times having a roll of duck tape, a couple of flat head screwdrivers, and a tire pump are your last and final line of defense against the whiles of both the trials and their gods.
With the following steps you will learn that not only can you do an emergency flat repair, but that in some cases you can even resurrect a trashed tire long enough to get you to home base.
Minimal tools that you will need
- Wrenches sized to the nuts on your wheels
- Two flat head screw drivers or putty knives
- A roll of grey duct tape
- Tire pump
Step 1: Removing the flat tire
The first step in this process is to put the bike in a position that is comfortable for you to work on. Most people prefer the bike to be upside down using the seat and handle bars much like a bench. However some prefer to work on their bikes with the wheels on the ground, or laying side ways. It really makes little difference so long as you are comfortable.
With the correct sized wrench placed squarely on the nut, turn in a counter clockwise direction. Once the nut becomes hand loose, proceed to finger twist the nut off enough to allow the tire to be taken from its supports. Repeat this process for the other side of the tire.
Step 2: Remove the tire from the Wheel
Making sure to let out any remaining air in the tube slide either your flat head screw driver or putty knife carefully under the lip of the tire. Using the leverage provided by the edge of the wheel push slowly down on the handle of your tool until the lip of the tire is sitting over the edge of the wheel rim.
Next insert the second flat head screwdriver or putty knife and slowly push it around the edge of the tire lifting the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel rim until one edge of the tire is completely removed from the wheel rim. There may be a few areas you really need to coax the tire over, and remember to keep constant pressure on the other tool to make sure the tire does not “hide” back under the wheel rim.
Step 3: Locate the puncture
While this can be done visually and with spit, it is suggested you use some water to clean the tube first. After cleaning the tube inflate the tube with your tire pump and using all your senses locate the leak. Most leaks are pretty easy to find and will hiss fairly loudly. If you are having a hard time locating the leak use water to sparingly splash on the tube and look for bubbles created by escaping air.
Step 4: Repair the puncture
At the location of the leak take the roll of duct tape and place the edge of the tape about a half inch from the puncture. Then slowly wrap the tube two to three times. It is important to not wrap to tightly as this can cause the tube to squeeze when it is inflated. However, also pay attention not to wrap to loosely or the leak will most likely not be sealed.
There is some debate among bikers as to the correct way to use duct tape to seal a leak. Some believe it is best to wrap the tape around the are of the puncture while others feel that using a square much like a patch is a better idea. From personal experience it is better to just wrap the tube because squares tend to fall off more readily which means repeating the whole process again.
Step 5: Replace the tube back into the wheel
Again making sure the tube is out of air place the nipple into the slot in the wheel and slowly place the rest of the tube around the wheel.
Step 6: Replace Tire
Taking care not to pinch the tube replace the tire by using your palms to set the lip of the tire back into the rim of the wheel until the tire is once again in place.
Step 7: Pump up the tire
Using your tire pump, pump the tire up to your normal psi
Step 8: Get back on the trail!
Get back on the trial and try to make it back to home base quick. There is no guarantee that this patch will last long and the sooner you make it back home the better off both you and your bike are.
So there you have it. A great way to fix a flat with duct tape. If you have a patch kit handy simply follow the above directions with exception of instead of using duct tape use a patch kit instead. Most patch kits provide directions on their proper application so this should be a fairly easy process as well.
Until next time, good trails and good rides.
Mechanic Tips: Replacing Wheel Bearings
August 7, 2008 by Richard Martens
Filed under Tips
There comes a time in every rider’s life when they decide to either fix a bike on their own, or choose to modify their bike. While the professionals will tell you that you are always best off using them for these problems, both our wallets and our curiosity often propel us forward in search of greater understanding of the mechanical universe. In an effort to help you do it yourself several articles will be focused on various mechanical aspects of mountain biking.
What you will need for the following repair/modification
- Correctly sized wrenches.

- Bearing grease (this should be available at any bike store)
- Wheel bearings (most should come pre assembled in the brace)
Step 1:
Using the correct size wrench remove the wheel from the frame. For front wheels this will be simple, for some rear wheel set ups you may need to remove the derailer and brake system before removing the wheel.
Step 2:
Using the correct sized wrench remove the retaining nut that is against the outside of the wheel well (where the axle goes through). At this point some bikes may require a flat head screw driver to remove the wheel well plate, while others will simply pull out. If necessary repeat this process on the other side. You know you have done it correctly when the axle of the wheel is completely removed.
Step 3:
Remove the wheel bearing brace. This will be a small circular piece of metal with several ball bearings spaced apart. Also you should find at least some grease to help reduce friction during movement.
Step 4:
After removing the replacement bearings from their package set them on a cardboard box or similar surface you do not mind getting dirty. Then open the wheel grease and scoop out a liberal amount with one hand. Next grab the replacement bearing with you clean hand and begin rubbing the grease into the bearing.
Step 5:
Continue rubbing wheel grease into the bearing for several minutes scooping out more grease as needed. You want to make sure that as much of each ball is coated in grease so that they will function correctly. Repeat this process for the other bearing.
Step 6:
After wiping your hands clean of grease replace the bearings into the wheel well. Most wheels should have groves that they align with, if they don’t, put them in there as well as you can.
Step 7:
Replace the axel assembly and tighten all nuts as needed. Make sure to not over tighten these nuts as doing so could cause problems down the road.
Step 8:
Remount wheel as specified by your particular bike manufacturer.
Step 9:
Take your bike for a ride, listen for any grinding sounds. Also you will want to make sure that your pedaling is as smooth or smoother as it was previously. If you hear either grinding or the pedaling is not smooth repeat the process and apply more wheel grease as it is very likely you did not coat the bearings well enough.
Step 10:
Enjoy the ride.




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