For as long as we have all ridden bicycles, our wheels were attached either by bolt or by quick-release. Bolts hold our wheels on tight and secure, but when it comes down to fixing a flat, changing a tire, or mounting a bike to a rack, nothing beat the convenience of a quick-release lever. The QR has been around so long, that it’s almost surprising that someone would come around so late in the game and try to improve upon an already well-designed solution. Sure, we’ve all seen QR skewers with titanium shafts, anodized aluminum or carbon ends, silly twist and turn mechanisms… But until the CLIX, no significant improvements have been made to this simple yet functional part.

The one gripe of quick releases through the years (and a minor one at that) has been that although they work conveniently to release and mount your wheels, they still require full two-handed action: loosening the cam lever and subsequently loosening the opposite bolt. The same would go for replacing the wheel. The bolt and lever would have to be tightened and adjusted, maybe tightened some more, maybe loosened a bit, then tightened a tad more…… before fully locking the wheel in place. The CLIX system addresses that very issue, and fixes it. CLIX makes your front wheel have an even quicker quick-release! In fact, CLIX is so proud of their system, that they don’t call it a quick-release, but rather a wheel release system… I suppose “SuperFast Front Wheel Release” drew some issue in their legal department.

Through its simple and innovative design, the CLIX system does away with the spinning of the adjustment nut on the opposite end of the lever. No more spinning the cam, tightening or loosening the cam until it ‘feels’ tight in your dropouts. With CLIX, you just release the lever, grip the release cup with your middle and fore finger, and out comes your wheel! It’s even simpler than it sounds. Even with the little retention tabs found on most suspension fork dropouts, the CLIX system still released with ease, yet locked down solid when it was time to ride.

The construction of the CLIX is simple and strong. The cam lever is forged aluminum for light-weight and strength, the shaft is constructed of steel, as are the grip areas that secure the skewer to your fork’s dropouts. The wide-throw lever pivots smoothly and requires no lubrication. A deep black anodize coats the lever and the retention cup and a crisp laser-etched CLIX logo rounds off the whole package with a pro-look.

Installation of the CLIX system is simple and takes only a few minutes. A slight wrench- tightening to the lock-nut inside the adjustment nut (yes, there’s a nut inside a nut), and you’re ready to ride. Once in place, the CLIX never has to be re-adjusted to fit your dropouts. When removing the wheel, I found that I could easily do it one-handed, and in most cases, re-install it with one hand as well. If you can turn a screw, you can install a CLIX – it’s just that simple. 

CLIX claims that the skewer makes an audible “Click” when the wheel is locked in place – hence the name CLIX. Although I personally never heard the resounding “click,” I had no problems with the CLIX skewer holding my wheel securely, even after numerous installations and removals. Locking action remained solid and sure time after time.

A nice You-Tube video of the how the CLIX system works can be watched below:

The CLIX is currently available for front-wheel use only (dropout spacing 100mm). No rear-wheel option is available at this time. It is designed primarily to address the needs of the rider who has to remove their front wheel more often than the rear. In a side by side comparison, I found that the skewer was only slightly larger and heavier than a stock Shimano XT. If gram shaving is a major consideration for your race rig, you may want to pass on the CLIX… though skewers are surely not the place on your bike to saving weight… it’s only a few grams for goodness sake! If you are one of the many riders who have to release your front wheel to mount your bike on a car’s roof-rack, or if you are a commuter that likes to lock up your front wheel along with the rear, the CLIX is for you. Easy one-handed release and installation will save you time, frustration, and a bit of greasy mess on your hands.

The only downside that I can comment on about the CLIX system is that (at the time of this review) it is only available as an OEM product on Cannondale, Trek and a few other lesser-known bike manufacturers’ factory built bikes. The CLIX website explicitly states that CLIX should not be used on other bikes, but I sense that that’s just legal jargon as some ‘professional’ installation is necessary for the CLIX to work properly and safely. I installed the CLIX on a Fox F120 fork and it worked like a charm.

I’m a big fan of set-and-forget type of parts. Like most riders, I want to spend more of my time riding the bike, rather than working on it, even if this means adjusting that silly front QR over and over and over. The CLIX is a part you can adjust once, and let-be for the life of your wheel. If you find yourself mounting and dismounting your front wheel often, I recommend you bribe the mechanic at your local bike shop to sell or swap you for a CLIX system today. You will not regret it.

Ride fast, ride hard, but always remember – keep the rubber side down!

• August 19, 2008 -- “Gearing Up” For Our Wheelset Reviews
• August 16, 2008 -- Mavic 29er TN 719 DISC Rim Review

So with that being said, when you’re out ripping-it-up on your favorite trail, please keep these ‘green’ riding tips in mind.

1) Stay on the trail.

Sure, that tree stump or natural rock ramp a couple feet off the trail might be all too tempting for a quick jump or bunny-hop, but the fact is that it is not part of your trail. Where one goes, others are sure to follow… As your tread marks are much more visible on the softer off-trail, other riders are going to follow your fresh path to that ‘hidden’ jump… Before you know it, your ‘little secret’ is now everyone’s favorite hop-spot and the once narrow groomed trail is now a sprawling free-for-all playground.

2) Ride through puddles, not around them!

Riding around a puddle only compacts the ground surrounding the puddle, leveling it lower and allowing the puddle to grow. I’m sure we’ve all seen it, trails that pinch and bloat where wet-sections are prominent. Seems like nobody wants to ride their $2000 mountain bike through a little mud… c’mon folks, it’s a knobby bike, not a road bike! Trust me – your bike’s bearings and seals can take much more grit than a few calm puddles can dish out.

Fact is, the center of the puddle has the most compacted base. That is why the puddle is not being absorbed by the trail. By riding around the circumference, you are actually compressing the softer, more fragile edge of the puddle, which will inevitably either compact, allowing the puddle to grow and the trail to bloat, or it will contribute to overall trail erosion. The best thing you can do for the trail is ride right smack-dab through the center. Eventually the puddle will dry up, but the damage to trails from poor puddle-riding is irreversible.

So when you see that puddle up ahead, get some speed, coast through the center and don’t forget to keep your mouth shut. Or if you simply don’t want to get a little dirty… God forbid… dismount your bike and walk across.

3) Stay in-line, No Shortcuts.

Shortcutting causes erosion. Trails are built and designed to take a beating – either by foot, hoof or tire. Everything else should be considered fragile ecosystem. 2 feet off the trail is still off-the-trail. If a log, tree, boulder or other obstacle blocks your trail, your only options should be to bunny-hop over or pause your ride, dismount your bike, and carry your bike over the obstacle before continuing. Just like puddles, a trail will grow and bloat when riders take short cuts.

4) STOP skidding.

Nothing says, “I don’t know how to ride my bike,” than a 6-foot-long skid with dust and gravel shooting all over the place. Yes, we’ve all been genetically pre-programmed from our first coaster-brake BMX bikes to lock up that rear wheel and throw our bike into a mean skid. But we’re not in 4th grade anymore. Your bike now has two brakes, one in the front and one in the rear (Your front wheel actually provides more stopping power and will never skid). Skidding is by no means the best way to stop. It destroys the rubber on your tire, drastically reduces control of your bicycle, and worst of all – creates trail stutter bumps and gross amounts of erosion on the trail. Skids are more responsible for trail damage than nearly any other poor-riding habit.

Read your trail and anticipate your stops ahead of time. When you do have to make that emergency ‘oh-Sh#!’ stop, throw your bum far behind your seat, crouch low in the cockpit, and give both front and rear levers a squeeze. If you find yourself skidding constantly, you are simply going too fast. Slow down! Keep your trails like your shorts, skid-mark free.

5) Let it rain.

If the forecast calls for rain, stay home and mow your lawn. Don’t ride a trail when it’s raining. If you’re on a trail and it starts to rain, make your way home. Save the ride for a dryer day. Riding in wet weather more than doubles your impact and ‘foot-print’ on the trail. The softer surface will cause your knobby tires to leave deeper tread marks and also carry more of the trail away with them. On single-track, your tires will actually push the trail (mud, dirt, gravel, etc) far to the sides, eventually gouging and deepening the already narrow trail, rendering it unrideable in the future. Riding in the wet is not safe for you either – No matter how sticky your tire rubber may be, its no match for slime-slick roots, wet stones and sloppy mud. Remember, a rainy day is a good thing for your trail. Rain helps smooth loose areas, compact accumulated dust and sand, and gives roots, plants and other live trail anchors some well-deserved refreshment.

6) Switchbacks and logs.

Erosion, erosion, erosion. If you ride your switchbacks wide, you’re going to cause erosion. Ride them tight, and you’re going to cause erosion. Skid into a switchback, and … you’re going to cause erosion! When approaching a switchback. Always keep yourself centered. If the switchback has a retaining log, ride over the middle of it. The log is there to keep the switchback (and the trail) in place. By riding outside the log, you are actually slowly dislodging it. Think of the log as a technical-treat rather than a trail obstacle. Sure, going over the center of it may be more exhausting and straining than going around the outside or inside, but hey, you’re riding for some exercise, right? Too tired to ride the center – remember, the pga tour and your Lay-Z-Boy are still at home waiting for you.

7) Obey all trail signs.

If a trail is closed, don’t ride it. Most likely a closed trail either requires significant maintenance, is restricted to slower-traffic (hikers), or it was simply not designed to handle mountain bikes. You may get away with it once or twice, but eventually a ranger will ticket you. In some states, a law enforcement ranger can legally confiscate your bike as evidence! But even worse than any ticket or ride to the impound lot is that by disregarding trail postings, you give the rest of us mountain bikers a bad name.

Hikers, equestrians, birdwatchers, etc – all have more powerful lobbying groups than mountain bikers. Legally it is much more difficult to have a trail re-opened for mountain bike use, than it is to have one restricted. Anger one too many trail users, and you’ll see your trail closed. While on your bike you are most likely faster than any other trail user, and you are more likely to surprise, spook, and unknowingly anger others sharing your path. Always pull aside for hikers and step off the trail completely for horses. Announce yourself clearly as you pass, and avoid kicking up unnecessary dust (See Tip #4).

8) Mix it up.

Don’t ride the same trail every weekend. Give your favorite trail a chance to revive. I’m sure you have a trail that you know like the back of your hand, we all do. With a trail that you know well, you’re more likely to pedal faster, brake harder, and accelerate stronger. All these factors lead to more strain and stress on the trail surface. Rather, ride a variety of trails throughout your season. By doing so, you not only spread your individual rider footprint, but you will also hone your trail skills as well.

9) Join IMBA or your local trail organization.

Mountain biking is for the most part a free activity, yet the work that goes into maintaining and opening trails is anything but. If you can’t give up your own time to volunteer on trail work, why not push a few dollars over to those who can. Donate every year to your local trail organization, open-space park, or forest preserve. Join IMBA (International Mountain Bike Association), the sole organization that represents us in DC, lobbies for riders’ rights, works to open trails and to keep our sport free. It’s only a few dollars to join and you get some cool stickers and swag, as well as the piece of mind that you’re doing your part.

10) Share the knowledge – Be a good ambassador.

If you see another rider ruining your trail, you have full right to speak your mind – after all, it’s your trail too. Be firm, you’re in the right. Be polite, but if that doesn’t work, a little passive comment might do the trick. If someone is riding their bike off the trail, you can always say, “Hey bud, you look lost, the trail is right over here…”

Riding ‘green’ is every rider’s responsibility. A few small changes to your riding style can do great things for the health of your favorite trails. Share these tips with your riding buddies, and lastly – always remember to practice what you preach.

Ride fast, ride hard, but always remember – keep the rubber side down!

• May 26, 2009 -- Support Historic Opportunity for NEW Mountain Bike Access in Marin County, California
• February 17, 2009 -- Last Day to Support Bikes in National Parks
• January 8, 2009 -- Help Support Mountain Biking in National Parks
• November 7, 2008 -- Separation of Bike and State?
• October 30, 2008 -- Poachers Need Not Apply
• September 17, 2008 -- Sherman Branch, Section Two
• September 6, 2008 -- Fight the Burn: How to Take on a Steep Uphill Trail and Live to Tell the Tale
• August 17, 2008 -- Sherman Branch – Section One

Subscribe to our site so you’ll be sure not to miss out on the reviews of the wheelsets!

Industry Nine:

Industry Nine (I9) has been all-the-talk the past year or so. The guys who ride them swear by them. 3 month wait for a custom set – what?! Super stiff alloy spokes, 120 points of engagement, proprietary spoke and hub design, any anodize color you can image, tubeless or tubed…they sound too good to be true. Promises to be lighter, stiffer, faster, stronger than anything out there…

Rohloff:

Ok, so not necessarily a wheel, but more a hub/transmission system the Rohloff speedhub gives you 14 speeds, the equivalent gear ratio of a 3×9 drive-train, but without the mess of derailleurs, dual shifters, extra cables, triple rings, and cogsets. You use only 1 ring up-front, so clearance on your bike is improved while maintenance is reduced. This is not the funky Toy’s-R-Us transmission system of old – this is a hardcore part that takes all-mountain rides and gobbles them up and spits them out… There’s two guys who ride Ellsworth Truths on the same trails I do. I run into them now and then. They both have Rohloff hubs and they swear by them – almost cult-like. With a Rohloff hub you can shift at a standstill, and even better, shift under load. The whole system is sealed (from shifter through hub), so there’s next to no maintenance for your ride. You can run a disc or rim-brake setup (who does rim brakes?!) and you can chose the rim and spokes for your personal set up.

Mavic:

Mavic makes some delicious wheels for all-mountain riding as well. While every racer knows about the crossmax SLR and SL models, fewer riders have taken to the slightly beefier ST series. A couple years ago I owned a set of crossmax XL wheels, no longer in production. The wheelset was suprisingly light, but absolutely bombproof. In my opinion, I9 took a note from the crossmax series from mavic when they designed their AL-spoked design. Crossmax ST was the next generation to replace the XL wheelset (aimed at the everyday weekend-warrior and all mountain rider).

Crank Bros:

Have you seen these? Everything Crank Bros touches is uber-cool. The engineering and machining that goes into these makes them an art piece in themselves.

DT Swiss:

The XR series seems to have a wheel for every rider looking to upgrade from stock. From carbon rims to wide enduros – a very solid line up.

Do you have one of these wheelsets?  Is there a set not mentioned that we should give a serious look at?  Please, respond below in the comments section.

• September 9, 2008 -- CLIX is the Fix for the Common Quick Release Skewer Blues
• August 16, 2008 -- Mavic 29er TN 719 DISC Rim Review

With more bike manufacturers accepting the 29er platform, tire and rim makers have also stepped up their game. In 2008, Mavic released its TN 719 rim. Mavic touts it as the rim for “29er addicts” built from the ground-up for the rigors of true off-road duty. No longer a modified road rim, the TN 719 is being offered as the rim for those choosing to go the 29er route while still allowing for traditional hub and spoke options. Building a strong 29er rim is a fine balance between weight and strength. Build it too heavy and the rotational weight will be amplified by the larger diameter size of 29” wheels and tires. Build it too light, and the rims will flex more noticeable than on smaller diameter 26” cousins. The TN 719 is Mavic’s answer to this equation.

First Look
Sometimes a component just ‘looks the part’ before you even mount it on your ride. The TN 719’s give a sold first impression. Out of the box, the taller profile of the TN 719 is immediately noticeable. In your hands, the rims look and feel stout, though at the same time light. Mavic’s SUP machining leaves every surface and weld on the rim smooth and clean, a very uniform and balanced look. Mavic has perfected their clincher system, and the Maxis tire beads seated themselves perfectly the first time through, with little to no adjustment being necessary. In the truing stand, the rims were Mavic-true. The French company doesn’t let any rim leave the factory without testing its trueness, and the TN 719 rims are no exception. Naturally, I was going to hold out for the ‘true’ test after giving them some good off-road time.

On an aesthetic note, I should mention that the dark ebony rims contrasted nicely with the big bold white graphics. They gave my bike a beefier and tougher face. Looks don’t matter much, but they do when it’s your ride… right?

Tech Specs
A deeper V-profile than previous road-adapted rims, the TN 719 is built for the demands of today’s big-wheel crowd. Unlike the previous A317 rim from Mavic, which was essentially a road-rim built for commuting and later adapted for light 29er duty, the TN 719 has been designed to be mountain-bike specific. Available in either 32 or 36 hole drillings, the single-eylet rims are built comfortably light at 510g, but Mavic’s proprietary rim material, dubbed “Maxtal”, is not spared to make the rims stupid-light. Although it does not share the extensive machining and scalloping of its more expensive race-light brothers, the stout build of the MAVIC TN 719 will last you multiple seasons, without making your wheels feel like boat anchors. Compared the earlier A317 Disc rim from Mavic, the TN 719 saves you a generous 28 grams per wheel. Currently, Mavic only produces the TN 719 as a disc-specific rim. V-brakes or other rim-brakes are not an option as the TN 719 has a very short sidewall that does not accommodate brake pad wear. Lastly, Mavic does not sell the rim as a tubeless “UST” design. Although compatible with Mavic’s tubeless system as an aftermarket option, the rim does not ship tubeless-ready. 

Mavic produces the TN 719 as a rim-only option. Unlike it’s CrossMax And CS29ssmax offerings, Mavic does not ship the TN 719 as a complete wheel set, but various wheel houses can build the rim up to your specifications in a wide array of hub and spoke options.

On The Block
As this was a dedicated rim review and not a wheel set review, I worked to keep all factors constant between my previous set-up and the current TN 719 set. For comparison purposes, my set matched my previous 29er set-up: 32 double-butted spokes, brass nipples, and high-flange Shimano XT M9756 hubs. A pair of semi-slick 2.1 Maxis tires rounded out the set. My testing platform was a non-suspended steel frame (ZION 737) mated with a full-carbon fork. As the sole difference between my previous set up and this wheel set was the newer rim set, any change in wheel response could be directly attributed to the TN 719 rim. Spoke count, hub set, tire rubber, and tubing were all maintained constant from my previous Mavic A317 disc wheel set.

Having mounted the new wheels to my bike, I took the TN 719s out for a quick spin around the block. The wheels felt solid underneath, but not a dramatic change from the previous A317 rims. The wheels rolled smooth without a wobble or hop, and although barely noticeable at the time, knowing that I was saving nearly 60 grams from my previous set made me “feel” faster. Cornering on cement was slightly more precise, though again, not a radical difference. I decided to wait for the trail-test to see if my investment in the TN 719’s was justified. After hopping a few curbs and bashing a few steps, I threw the rims into a truing stand just for a quick check – the rims stayed true.

Off The Beaten Path
Off-road is where the TN 719 rims really start to shine. Immediately, the lateral stiffness of the rims was noticeable. 29er wheels have long had a tendency to flex side-to-side – The additional stress of heavier rubber, larger diameter size, and the lateral tensions of off-road climbing have always been a bane for 29er rims. With the taller v-shaped profile of the TN 719, Mavic has addressed this issue, and more importantly, corrected it. Rocking the bicycle while mashing an uphill climb, the wheels felt solid and flex-free. Even more noticeable was aggressive downhill cornering. The wheel response was instantaneous. No flex-lag was noticeable coming out of turns and on the straightaways they seemed to scream at you to, “GO FASTER!” When it comes to tracking, the TN 719’s doesn’t seem to flex at all, digging your tires into the dirt when traction is most demanded. Solid and stiff is the only way to describe these rims.

The difference between the TN 719 and the A317 rims was not only obvious, but it was literally shocking – Although I was running the same PSI as my previous set-up, the TN 719 rims transmitted much more trail chatter. At first, it was almost uncomfortable. Each bump, rut and dip was much more noticeable, as the rims would not give up much flex from ground impacts. I found myself dumping a few PSI in the tires every few turns to accommodate this stiffness. Surprisingly, even at a modest 32 PSI, I didn’t feel much flex in the wheels, nor did I fear any pinch-flat. I tested the rims on a set of Maxis 2.1” tires, though Mavic claims that the TN 719’s will accommodate up to 2.30” rubber. I have no doubt they will.

I don’t know if I can attribute it to the rims being 60 grams lighter (total set), or maybe just a hearty breakfast that morning, but every time I checked my gears on a long uphill, I surprisingly found myself pushing 1-2 cogs higher than my usual. I found that with the new wheels, I had shaved a respectable 10-12 minutes off my usual 2 hour loop!

Conclusion
All in all, the TN 719 disc rims are a solid choice for the seasoned 29er veteran, or the new rider seeking to upgrade an entry-level stock 29er wheelset. Is it a necessary upgrade from a Mavic a317 disc rimset? – Most likely not. But the change in wheel response and feel is noticeable and may be worth the investment for the discerning rider. I for one am sold. A TN 719 wheel set like mine retails for around MSRP $250, though depending on hub options, the wheels may be slightly less (or more) expensive. Mavic’s MSRP on the rim alone hovers around $80 ea. Undoubtedly this rim set will be a noticeable upgrade from stock wheel sets found on sub-$1000 29ers. Mavic has listened to the needs of the 29er troop and answered its call with a rim that is solid and gets the job done. Don’t be surprised if TN 719s start to show up on 2008 –2009 bike showroom floors. As for my previous wheelset… it’s going on eBay – I’m sticking with the TN 719s.

Ride fast, ride hard, but always remember – keep the rubber side down!

• September 9, 2008 -- CLIX is the Fix for the Common Quick Release Skewer Blues
• August 19, 2008 -- “Gearing Up” For Our Wheelset Reviews