First I just want to get this out of the way.  The biggest compromise between different tires is that of traction/rolling resistance.  Greater traction generally means a slower but more controllable ride.  Less traction means you will fly off hard terrain but can easily loose control, slide out, or loose traction on loose terrain.

Kevlar or Wire Bead

First if you don’t already know there are two types of beads, Kevlar (also called folding) and Wire.  A wire bead means a heavier tire and in general a tire that is more difficult to install and remove.  The first time or two you have to install or remove your Kevlar beaded tire you may be in for a struggle.  They are sized small initially because the beads will stretch slightly over time.  This is by no means the rule as different manufacturers and models of tire will be larger or smaller bead diameters (slightly) but the general rule is Kevlar is lighter and eventually easier to manipulate.

Kevlar Belted Tires

Some MTB tires have Kevlar belts underneath the tread.  This means they have more resistance to thorns and other objects trying to penetrate the tire.  If you are having problems with punctures look for a Kevlar belted tire, it can help.

Tubeless Specific Tires

Tubeless tires are specifically made for tubeless setups, but you can run them with tubes if you want.  Many standard tires have small holes from manufacturing that will leak if they are ran tubeless (unless you use sealant).  Tubeless tires are made to eliminate these small leaks and usually feature thicker tread and sidewalls.  This is to decrease the chance of a puncture or tear since a tear in a tubeless tire can really screw up your day.  For those of you who do not know the benefits of tubeless, it offers slightly less rotating weight and better traction.  Tubeless tires really hook up with the trail!

Threads per Inch (TPI)

You may have noticed a measurement called TPI when you’re checking out tires at the shop.  The general rule is a greater TPI means a thinner walled tire that will be lighter and have less rolling resistance.  However, these tires will be easier to puncture or tear.

Tread Compound

There are soft compounds, medium compounds and hard compounds.  Kenda has their Stick-e compound that has made them famous.  There is no real measurement that manufacturers do to tell you how soft or hard their tire is.  The easiest way to check is to squeeze a knob between your fingernails and see how much give it has.  Or you can grab a knob and try to move it back and forth.  A softer compound will have more flex.  On the trail a harder compound translates to better energy transfer in optimum conditions.  Kenda has some of the softest compound tires on the market, and because of it, they can be a bit sluggish on hard pack.  But softer compound tires are great for rock, sand, mud, loose dirt and pretty muck everything else besides hard pack.  Choose a tire based on the terrain you will be riding on.  Another thing to note is the size of the knobs will affect their flexibility.  In other words a softer compound tire with big knobs will be stiffer and have better performance on hardpack while a tire with smaller knobs and the same compound will be slower on hard pack but perform better on rock and in the loose stuff. 

Knob Size, Depth. Shape and Spacing

Have you ever seen those sand tires for ATV’s that have the huge scoops for traction?  Think of knobs this way.  A larger knob (both wide and deep) will increase you rolling resistance which means it will be slower on hardpack and faster through loose stuff.  Smaller knobs offer little resistance and fly over tight packed trails but leave you spinning your wheels in mud and sand.  Knob shape also has influence on the tires performance.  Scoop shaped tread means more rolling resistance while squares and round knobs mean a faster tire.  Finally less knobs means less rolling resistance and a faster tire, but you’ll notice that most high performance race tires have lots of tiny knobs.  This is to keep rolling resistance down, but maintain enough traction to keep your bike in control.  Wider spaced knobs can also provide more opportunity for tires to shed mud, but keep in mind less knobs means less traction and poorer performance in loose stuff.

Cornering

I have never heard of anyone who wants a tire with slow cornering.  For the best cornering look for tires with knobs very close to the edges of the tread.  This will help pull you into and through a corner.  And of course harder compound tires will drive you through corners quicker in hard pack while softer compound tires will keep you turning in loose stuff.  The knob size and shape can affect cornering as well.  Larger knobs on the edge offer more traction (rolling resistance) to keep your footing but will be slower than a bunch of small tightly spaced knobs.

Tire Width

The more tire there is on the ground the more traction/rolling resistance you have.  Although there is debate on this. Wider tires put more tire on the ground and give you more traction.  If you want to ride fast on hard pack run 2.0 or 2.1’s.  If you want traction in loose stuff keep going for wider tires until you get what you need.  One of the new trends is to run a wider tire in the front than the rear.  This is to provide better cornering traction and bump absorption.

Pressure

Higher pressures mean that the tire will not have as much contact with the ground.  A tire inflated at a lower pressure will bulge out more under your weight.  This will push a larger amount of tread flat against the ground and yield more traction. Sometimes riders will even deflate their tires slightly when they come upon a section of the trail with a lot of loose rock, sand or mud, then add air when they get back on hard pack.

Tread Direction

Most tires will have a diagram on the sidewall that tells you the tread direction.  In general the knobs will have a pointed side and a scooped side.  Just think the knobs point forward as a good rule of thumb, although some tires are designed to run the opposite direction on the rear wheel or both wheels.

Look at the Big Picture

As you can see there are A LOT of different factors that affect tire performance.  In order to get a good idea of how a tire will perform you need to keep in mind TPI, compound, knob size, knob shape, tread depth, weight, tire width, cornering knobs and the trails you plan to be ridding on.  Ya it’s kind of complicated but when in doubt just ask someone who knows like the guys at your friendly local bike shop (LBS).

• February 12, 2009 -- Roll Faster
• August 7, 2008 -- Tire Pressure: Something to Pay Attention To

So I’m a pretty young guy, but I’ve been working on bikes for a little while. The other day I was doing a major tune-up on a customer,s bike and noticed the hubs, something which I usually only check in passing, were so tight you could feel the bearings. This was a relatively new bike too, so I checked a few others and noticed the same thing. It was then I realized the importance of checking your hubs, something I know that most mechanics usually don’t look at.

Hubs are just assumed to be fine…No play good to go, but over tightened hubs mean more resistance and faster bearing and cup wear. I always learned to tighten hubs just to the point where they have no play. However Mr. Hobbs from Park Tools says to leave a tiny amount of play in the hub, but when the wheel is tightened in the frame the extra pressure should remove this play. (Always check it) He also says if you do not leave any play in hubs they are too tight. I have tried this with varied results. Depending on the bike, sometimes no matter how little play I leave in the hub, I still end up with play when the wheel is tightened in the dropouts, so use your own discretion.

Anyway here is what to look for. When you turn the axle it should be smooth, but moving the axle back and forth should not result in a knocking feeling or at least on a very slight movement that should be corrected when the wheel is tightened in the dropouts. If you turn the axle and feel bumps, almost like notches, that means the hub is way too tight! Sometimes the easiest way to check for play is with the wheel still on the bike. Hold the bike off the ground and try to move the wheel side to side feeling for any knocking. Rotate the wheel half a rotation and try it again. If there is nothing that means the hub is fine or too tight. You will have to remove the wheel in order to determine how tight it is.

The process of actually loosening or tightening the hub is fairly straight forward. You need thin wrenches called cone wrenches to access the thin nuts on the wheel. Most bike shops should sell these or you can just let you local shop do the work for you.  Each side has two nuts. The inner nut puts pressure directly on the bearing while the outer nut keeps the inner nut locked in place. To loosen or tighten the hub you will need to loosen the outer nut on one side of the hub first. Pick a side, put one cone wrench on the inner, one on the outer and loosen. Now you can loosen or tighten the inner nut to change the pressure on the bearings. When you’re finished adjusting the pressure, tighten the outer nut back down while using a wrench to make sure the inner not is not tightened as well. If you do not do this you can end up tightening the hub by tightening the outer nut.

And there you have it, the secret of hubs.

Random Posts

• February 8, 2009 -- Rays Indoor Mountain Bike Park Time Trials
• January 11, 2009 -- Combo Lifts: Squeezing More Results into Less Time
• March 16, 2009 -- All Harlot and No STD’s
• September 28, 2008 -- Interbike 2008 Expo: Pronghorn Racing Debut of Top Mounted Suspension Mountain Bikes
• May 12, 2009 -- NAHBS Announces Richmond, Virginia as 2010 Venue Location
• September 29, 2008 -- The Single Speed Guide
• December 18, 2008 -- IMBA Press Release: Bicycling in National Parks
• September 17, 2008 -- Sherman Branch, Section Two
• June 17, 2009 -- Stan’s NoTubes ZTR 355 32-hole Rims Review
• November 17, 2008 -- Darn Those Socks: Switching from Hanes to the Smartwool Ultra Light

2008 GT Avalanche 2.0 MSRP $629

Good value. Triple triangle frame is very tough but a little bit on the heavy side. This one is great for more aggressive or heavier riders.

GT Avalanche 2.0 Product Page

2009 Trek 4500 MSRP $689

This is a great entry-level cross-country bike. It is light compared to others in it’s class but not built for anything overly aggressive. Perfect for fast singletrack.

Trek 4500 Product Page

2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc MSRP $770

Usually I find Specialized to be overpriced, but this model is a pretty good value. It costs a bit more than the competition, but you get paid back with some better components. This will definitely outlast the competition by a bit. If you want a solid all-around performer with a longer life, this is it.

Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc Product Page

2009 Mongoose Tyax Super MSRP $649

Not a bad combo. Uses a lot of off brand components like Promax and SR Suntour which means a decrease in quality but for $649 you get a decent hardtail with hydraulic disc brakes (they make a world of difference) and a remote lockout for your front fork (cool feature for riding on hardpack or streets).

Mongoose Tyax Super Product Page

2009 Kona Blast MSRP $699

Solid setup overall. Not much else to say.

Kona Blast Product Page

2009 Gary Fisher Wahoo Disc MSRP $659

I’m very impressed with this setup. Solid drive train including, nice mechanical disc brakes, and a decent wheelset. If you are looking for the best bang for your buck this is it!

Gary Fisher Wahoo Disc Product Page

Buying tips

Avoid buying online or used, I’m not saying don’t consider it, but be very wary.  Check out our MTOBikes article on buying used bikes for more details.

Look for last years models in bike shops, you can often get a great deal.

Ride before you buy. Different manufacturers use slightly different geometries and sometimes this is the most accurate measure of a good bike. Think of it this way are you buying a bike or are you buying fitness, a new hobby, thrill, etc.?

You will need a lot more than just a bike, plan a hundred or more extra and see if you can get a deal on some of your accessories (this is where bike shops usually have the most margin).

• September 21, 2008 -- Hardtail VS. Full-Suspension: Which is Right for You?
• July 13, 2008 -- First Ride On My Fully Rigid Singular Swift SS Mountain Bike

The Small Stuff: Make them a Kit

Pedro’s Tire Levers
Ok these aren’t a one gift item, but trust me, these tire levers will change the frequent tire changers life! In my shop time I changed A LOT of tires and the thin but extra-wide design made even the tubeless tires on Bontrager rims easy. A good idea with this is to combine it with a bunch of other smaller items to make a kit. So keep reading for more ideas.

Finish Line Citrus Degreaser (Spray)
Another piece of the kit. This is an amazing degreaser and it smells like oranges. This is a gift for the bike freak who is constantly doing overhauls and degreasing and regreasing everything. Pedro’s is pretty good too. Enough said.

Chain Cleaner and Degreaser
If they don’t have a chain cleaner yet they need one. A clean chain means a happy chain, and less drive train wear, longer chain life, less resistance, and quieter operation. They are very easy to use and you don’t have to take the chain off of the bike to clean it! Don’t forget to buy the liquid degreaser with it.

A GOOD Multi Tool
There is a big difference between a multi tool and a good multi tool. I prefer Crank Brothers or Topeak. They both have a few different models based on how many tools the rider wants. If they are very weight conscious or don’t ride extremely often go for the simpler models, but for the extreme riders the more expensive versions will have a lot of great extra tools to help with trail fixes.

Cleaning Brush Kit
It doesn’t matter much who makes it (Park, Spin Doctor, Pedro’s and Other do) but a cleaning brush kit makes cleaning the drive train MUCH easier. A great addition to a cleaning kit with orange degreaser and a chain cleaner with degreaser.

Floor Pump, Mini Pump or CO2
Everyone likes a good air pump. A good mini pump is a must for any mountain biker; CO2 pumps makes inflation a snap for the rider who craves simplicity; and having a dependable floor pump is always a good thing.

Nutrition Sampler
One cool gift is a nutrition sampler. Find a good bike shop or nutrition store and buy a variety of bars and gels to try. Put them in a basket or something and it is a great way for a mountain biker to figure out what they like and don’t like.

One Item Gifts

Camelbak
If they have one they probably won’t mind having another one. I have four and I still want a couple more. Camelbak’s are one of the coolest ways to stay hydrated and carry all of your stuff. Stick to the Camelbak brand hydration packs. The knock offs always lack some quality and cannot even begin to compare in comfort or features.

Nokon Cable Housing
This is the perfect gift for the rider that spends as much time buying stuff for their bike as they do riding it. Nokon housing has a very cool bling factor, not to mention it shaves weight and reduces cable friction. It is made of a bunch of small anodized aluminum segments. There are a variety of color options out there so do some background prodding first.

Fox Shorts or Jerseys
A nice jersey or a pair of great shorts always makes a great gift. For mountain bikers Fox is one of the best manufacturers out there. Search for the articles about them on MTO Bikes to get the details.

Random Posts

• June 17, 2009 -- Stan’s NoTubes ZTR 355 32-hole Rims Review
• September 4, 2008 -- Commencal Furious Freeride Mountain Bike Review – Crankworx Colorado 2008
• January 15, 2009 -- ZeroGoo Hydration Bladder Dryer Review
• July 31, 2008 -- My Singlespeed Friend
• April 29, 2009 -- CamelBak M.U.L.E. NV Review
• June 21, 2008 -- Henderson Park Mountain Bike Trail (Tucker, GA)
• March 27, 2009 -- Swiftwick Four Merino Sock Review
• June 5, 2008 -- Thanks
• September 23, 2008 -- 2008 Interbike OutDoor Demo: Wimmer
• September 22, 2008 -- Mountain Cycle Rumble Limited Edition Frame Review

There are a variety of resolutions, frame rates, and modes you can record in, depending on the desired result. The recording module has a built-in LCD screen for on-the-spot editing which allows you to delete the fluff and save your SD card space for the video you want to keep. At six hundred and eighty bucks you get what you pay for. You might have to push back that next bike purchase, but the POV 1 system has all of the durability, features and capabilities that even the most avid mountain bikers could dream of.

Below are some videos of the V.I.O. in action.

Shoot Tag Edit Share – VIO POV Bike Tutorial from THE VIO VOICE on Vimeo.

Mountain Bike POV Trails and Jumps from THE VIO VOICE on Vimeo.

BIKE Magazine Point-of-View Mountain Biking – San Juan from THE VIO VOICE on Vimeo.

Random Posts

• August 14, 2008 -- How to Get Your Girl to Ride (Without Her Dumping You)
• August 19, 2008 -- Video Footage of the 2008 Olympic Mountain Biking Course
• April 6, 2009 -- Hoss Technical Gear’s Stallion Shorts Review
• January 1, 2009 -- Made to Order Bikes, Inc. 2008 Year End Review
• February 2, 2009 -- Crank Brothers Cobalt Wheels Review
• May 18, 2009 -- Topeak Dual-Touch Stand Review
• September 30, 2008 -- Angles and Sizes, and How They Affect Your Bike
• September 25, 2008 -- Interbike 2008 Expo – Day 1 – Pedro’s Trixie Cassette Tool
• January 12, 2009 -- France’s Julien Absalon’s Olympic Gold Mountain Bike
• October 26, 2008 -- Truvativ HammerSchmidt: Shifting Into the Future

Another new change to the look of their headsets, hubs and bottom brackets, is the introduction of a new color…brown. That is on top of their large color line-up already, which maxes out at 10, but depends on which component you are looking at. But I just gave the next point away; the new Chris King bottom bracket. It is designed to work with Shimano-compatible external bottom brackets. Besides offering 24 ball bearings per side and a user serviceable design, it comes with a 5 year warranty and a lot of pretty colors.

The hubs are also seeing a new addition this year, thru-axles. For front hubs Chris King now offers 15mm thru axle hubs with ISO 20mm hub shells or and standard ISO hub shells. And of course they have rear thru axle hubs. They come in 135 x 10mm and 135 x 12mm ISO flavors. All of the Chris King hubs offer a 5 year warranty, a variety of color options (of course), user-serviceable bearings, 72 engagement points compared to the normal 24 (on rear hubs), and the ability to adjust hub bearing preload with the wheel still on the bike!

King has expanded their stainless steel cog line to include 21, 22 and 23 teeth versions for more options for single speeders and fixies.

Chris King has long been shaping the leading edge of the industry, and with the coming year’s new line-up, I think it is safe to say they are holding that position. In a world where fine print is everywhere and even your coffee cup has to have a warning label on it, there is a company that is building a product the right way, and backing what they do with the best warranty around. This commitment to the industry is not only evident in their product but in their involvement with organizations like Wheels for Life, their contributions to the Pretty and Strong foundation for combating breast cancer, and commuter incentive programs for their employees, that generously rewards those who make a positive impact on our environment. The King secures his throne!

Random Posts

• November 6, 2008 -- Solving Bicycle Noise Issues
• January 1, 2009 -- Made to Order Bikes, Inc. 2008 Year End Review
• August 8, 2008 -- Duct Tape: It Holds the Universe Together…and Inner Tubes Too!
• December 11, 2008 -- Derailleur Hanger Alignment
• October 25, 2008 -- Cool Places to Ride in Colorado – Winter Park, Colorado
• November 21, 2008 -- Strider Running Bike Review
• September 3, 2008 -- Are 29er’s Really Faster? The Physics Behind the Big Wheels
• February 24, 2009 -- Dakine AMP 12L Hydration Pack Review
• November 5, 2008 -- The Ride at Waterton Canyon, Colorado
• September 12, 2008 -- Basic Nutrition for Every Cyclist

One of my biggest complaints with light systems is awkward batteries with miserably slow charging times and a lack of a smart charging system (you have to unplug the battery when it is fully charged otherwise it can be damaged). Ay-Up claimed to solve it all, but not one to be satisfied with manufacturer claims, I wanted to see for myself. The charger was indeed a smart charger and allowed you to charge two batteries at the same time. Later I discovered they had another version which allowed up to six batteries to be charged at once, and you can mix batteries of different charge levels and hour ratings with no problems. In just a few of hours I had all three batteries charged and ready to go. A lot of the other light systems on the market can take six, seven, even eight hours or more to completely charge! Combine that fact with the lack of a smart charging system and you have some battery headaches on your hands. But the Ay-Up batteries also feature built-in short circuit protection, do not suffer the dreaded memory effect (so you can recharge them without fully discharging them), are water proof to 1 meter, and can withstand a drop 5 meters to a concrete floor! That’s pretty hard to beat. I was already very impressed! The other thing that immediately struck me is the battery size: They were small and light. The 3 hour versions weighed in at just 70 grams (.15 lbs.) and were 1 3/4 inches, by 3 inches, by 1 inch in size; the 6 hour weighed 130 grams (.29 lbs.) and measured 3 inches, by 4 1/2 inches, by 1 1/2 inches. Each one has an integrated switch and a little pouch to make mounting easy.

Then I looked at the lights: The stylish anodized housings were available in 12 different colors, and the MTB kit included one wide beam and one narrow beam light. I examined them carefully and though at first glance I questioned their durability, some close examination and accidentally slamming my helmet mounted set into the wall proved they were darn near bullet-proof. Not to mention Ay-Up says; “You break it… we want it back. A new set will be delivered to your door as soon as physically possible.” I haven’t heard of any bike light manufacturer that stands behind their product to that extent… amazing! That being settled I installed the lights, plugged in the batteries and hit the trail. As I blazed down the trail I started to wonder why they had dual beams if they both pointed to the same spot, then an epiphany. I rotated one of the beams slightly above the other and viola, a longer beam. What a concept, a longer beam to see more of the trail in front of you… no need for a brighter light that sucks down you battery juice twice as fast just to see more of the trail.

A lot of people look for the system with the brightest and widest possible beam, but because the Ay-Up system uses a helmet and handlebar mount light together, you can see the area on the trail immediately around you, as well as details in the terrain, and use your helmet mount to scan further up the trail. Ay-Up does not offer the brightest or the widest beam on the market, but you don’t need either with the combo of head and handlebar light. That is not to say the system lacks power; the handlebar light or headlamp alone are enough to easily find your way on the trail. And because of the compact super-light design, you can barely tell the weight difference with a battery pack and light on top of your head.

Some other things to note, besides the if you break it they replace it warranty, is a 1-year full replacement guarantee for any failures during normal use. Ay-Up has a commitment to spreading innovation, so they soon plan to offer a discount upgrade program so current Ay-Up users can get the latest gear without paying the full price. Who else does that?

Staying on the subject of complaints this article was very hard to write. Every time I finished a paragraph I remembered another great bit of info from Ay-Up. There is so much thought and effort not only in the design of the system, but in the warranties and support. Below I put together a quick feature list with some of the main points:

Huge Variety of Mounting Options
Helmet Light and Handlebar Light for Most Versatile Platform Available
Dual beam adjustable lights
Stylish Look

• December 9, 2008 -- Ay Up Introduces the Gecko Lightset Mount

There are two versions to be available, one for all mountain and one for freeride. Truvativ discovered that the majority of riders in these categories used only two chainrings, so the system offers two selectable gears. It also provides chain retention to eliminate the need for chain guides, and a shifter, which is a near clone of SRAM’s X.0 shifters. That makes one think about the possibility of using it for single speeds/dual speeds.

One of the benefits to the HammerSchmidt is seamless shifting, even while shifting backwards or under load. The compact design also increases the ground clearance substantially, as well as eliminates the potential for bent and broken teeth on chain rings without a bash guard. Furthermore a constant chain line means you can use your full rear gear range with either of your front “chainrings.” No more worrying about cross chaining with the Hammer! For compatibility the HammerSchmidt offers a variety of bottom bracket sizes and crank lengths, but it does require the frame to have ISCG tabs. Adaptors won’t work.

It is a breakthrough in design, and at an expected $700-$800 it seems the adage you get what you pay for holds true. But keep in mind this is the whole package; cranks, bottom bracket, and shifter. Plus you can kiss that wimpy old front derailleur goodbye. One negative to the HammerSchmidt is weight. Compared to similar crank and BB combos the HammerSchmidt runs anywhere from 100-500 grams heavier. Nevertheless an extra pound may be a worthwhile sacrifice for all of the benefits the Hammer offers. In the near future you can bet on seeing this technology become lighter, cheaper, and much more prominent in the MTB world. Watch out cuz’ the Truvativ HammerSchmidt is just the beginning!

• August 15, 2008 -- HammerSchmidt Who? We’ll All Know Real Soon

Journey to a sacred land where Kabuki Beauty rules. It is a place of forgotten relics and the home of Shimano Yumeya. Yumeya is Japanese for “dream workshop.” It is the thoughts and dreams of cyclists; the desire for lighter, more exclusive products. For the elite who are not satisfied with XTR, Yumeya is the final touch, the ultimate in performance. It is comprised of several aftermarket upgrade parts, finished in gold and white for flash factor. It also offers slight weight savings and a couple other benefits.

Rumors have existed for a while now, yet there has still been much mystery surrounding Yumeya. Yumeya was first introduced into Shimano’s fishing world, to add performance and extra flash to their high-end reels. Recently it has surfaced at Eurobike and Interbike and despite mixed thoughts, it looks freakin’ cool.

Yumeya will grant you wings of the dragon with a total weight savings of 71.2 grams. Some of the parts offer no weight savings, just extra wow factor; but Yumeya has a few other advantages over the standard XTR. The Titanium bolt upgrade features molybdenum coating to prevent seizing which is never a bad thing. The new Yumeya chain boasts more durability and resistance to chain stretch, as well as better oil retention. Lastly Kabuki Beauty brings purity to hydraulic brake hoses giving the world a 35% increase in rigidity. Altogether it is nothing very substantial as far as performance goes, but it is a cool upgrade to brag to your buddies about. Granted Yumeya is certain to have a steep price tag. It is not for the general masses, but the elite who seek to spread Kabuki Beauty to the world.

The total Yumeya parts line-up is as follows:

• Carbon Rear Derailleur Plate
• Disk Brake Lever Lid
• Shift Lever Bracket Band
• Greased Outer Casing (Cable Housing)
• Titanium Bolts
• HG Chain
• Outer Adjust Plate for Shifters (Barrel Adjusters)
• Rear Derailleur Jockey Pulleys (They’re White!!)
• Fixing Bolt for Left Crank Arm
• Cassette Sprockets
• Brake Hose

[Show as slideshow]

Take a journey into the land of Kabuki Beauty and discover Yumeya for yourself: Be enlightened. Just remember patience is a virtue in the quest for Yumeya.

平和

• August 15, 2008 -- HammerSchmidt Who? We’ll All Know Real Soon

Almost everybody knows Fox racing from the dirt bike world, but many do not know what they offer for mountain bikers. Fox has taken their vast knowledge and finely tuned technology and applied it to us. I’m not here to talk about all of the details because that would be a very long article. Their product selection is huge! I’ll spell out the main points for you.

Fox gloves are some of the best mountain bike gloves on the planet! They offer full-finger, half-finger and modified finger styles (with a full thumb) depending on your preference. The product line ranges from the ultimate in simplicity, the $20 Fox Incline with a simple breathable mesh back and reinforced palm, to the $35 Sidewinder with multiple reinforcements all around, special ventilation inserts, and the ultimate in comfort. Their gloves are tough and built to take spills. Reinforcements protect your hands from blisters while your riding and serve as armor when you crash. If you aren’t riding with a pair of Fox gloves yet, buy yourself a pair already!

The Cotton T-shirt is great for casual rides, but if you are getting serious treat yourself to something better. Fox jerseys range from racing style with intense graphics and wide pored fabric, for unparalleled breatheability, to simple designs and color schemes for the more down to Earth rider. They come in long sleeve, no sleeve and short sleeve. If you have never worn a biking jersey the benefit is huge. With Fox each model is different, but they all offer moisture wicking to get the sweat off of you and keep you cool. Certain models have mesh sides and arm pits for improved breatheability. With models starting at 30 bucks you won’t have to save up to buy one.

A lot of mountain bikers still have not discovered the joys of padded shorts. Usually when you think of padded shorts the first thing that pops into your head is diapers and roadies with spandex (no offense to the roadies out there). Padded shorts can dramatically change your mountain biking experience. If you find yourself with a hurtin’ derrière after a ride, it’s time to think about picking up a good pair of padded shorts. Surprise! Fox has you covered there too. They offer a wide range of shorts with different levels of padding, breatheability and design. Shorts like the $120 Attacks have a finely contoured chamois (pad), a bullet proof exterior, plenty of cargo space, and strategically placed mesh vents for the ultimate breatheability. If you don’t feel like spending that much, 50 greenbacks will get you a pair of Fox base shorts which offer all of the same features of the high-end shorts, just not as finely tuned.

Fox also sells outwear, socks, helmets, hydration packs, guards, seat bags, eyewear, shoes, and of course their legendary shocks and forks. They also have specific gear lines for Women, BMX and Motocross (could of guessed that one). Get to your local bike shop or favorite web retailer and pick up some new Fox gear today. You won’t be disappointed!

P.S. The Fox store often has amazing deals on older models and limited sizes.

• November 17, 2008 -- Darn Those Socks: Switching from Hanes to the Smartwool Ultra Light
• August 27, 2008 -- Nike Dunk Gyrizo Men’s BMX Shoe Review