Get More Power Go Faster: Some Quick Tips

New Chain
A lighter chain doesn’t always mean you’ll go faster. Lighter chains, especially those with hollow pin designs can introduce a lot of flex into your drive train. Chains like the Wipperman Connex are made of stainless steel and a bit heavier but offer excellent power transfer which equals more speed. In the big picture heavier doesn’t always mean slower.

Weight Distribution
When climbing weight distribution is especially important. If your rear tire slips try shifting your weight back a little bit. This will increase your traction and get you up that hill quicker. For sand almost everybody knows to keep your cadence up, but you should also shift your weight back, so your front wheel barely glides along the top of the sand. Practice this and you’ll be able to conquer massive 8” deep sand drifts with ease!

Using the Trail
Learn to flow with the trail. It takes practice but stay dynamic on your bike. Move up and down, loading and unloading your tires and suspension as the trail changes. Lean into corners more and try to turn your handlebars less. One of the biggest aids is to use your brakes less. Every time you brake you are wasting your energy. Now of course there are times you have to brake, but get comfortable riding and handling terrain at faster speeds, and be mindful of your braking habits.

Pre-shift
Don’t shift while you are climbing or descending. Don’t shift while your riding through mud or a rock garden. Prepare yourself, shift to a proper gear before, and get ready. Shifting under load, on a hill or in the middle of a sand pit, means less speed and lost momentum.

Suspension
Stiffer suspension will mean less of your energy will be wasted in the travel of your suspension. Stiffer suspension can also mean more skipping around on rough terrain, which translates to less power transfer. The key is to find a balance. You may even want to use different suspension settings depending on trail conditions. Just experiment and have fun with it.

Tires
Tires are like suspension, find a good balance. Small size and numerous knobs means a faster tire on hardpack but slow on anything loose. Large knobs spaced widely grip good in the loose stuff but are slow on hardpack. Tire compounds can also make a difference. Go to your local bike shop or post a message on the MTOBikes.com forum to find the right tire for you. Tubeless will give you a light wheel and a little bit better traction. Higher tire pressures mean faster riding on hardpack, but slower progress and less control on the rough stuff.

Weight
It is a simple equation, shave weight and go faster. Anything that spins on your bike will provide the greatest benefit if you replace it with something lighter. That’s why one of the first upgrades on a bike is the wheels. But don’t just think about bike weight… A new XTR drive train might shave you a pound or two over your old XT, but you may be able to shave quite a bit more off of yourself, and save a lot of money in the process!

Cadence
Cadence is the speed at which your pedals rotate. Most mountain bikers gear themselves down using more of their leg strength than their rotation speed. Get comfortable with using easier gears but spinning your cranks faster and you will notice a significant increase in your speed. You won’t get worn out as quickly this way.

Nutrition
Make sure you are refueling your body as you use energy. If you suddenly run out of energy it is likely because you are not replenishing your carbs quick enough. Check out the MTOBikes.com articles on Nutrition, and look at hydration too while your at it;)

Exercise
Cross training, weight training, body weight exercise; it can all help improve your power and speed. Work on your cardio and build strength. Because of the dynamic nature of mountain biking vary your training. Circuit training can be an excellent way to boost your stamina on a bike. Plus it is never a bad idea to stay fit!

Used Mountain Bike Buyer’s Checklist

We’ve put together the below buyer’s checklist for you to use to help with the process of buying a used mountain bike.

Talk to owner about the history
Check for signs of maintenance (dry rot, rust, frayed cables, dirt/grease)

Wheels
No loose, broken or missing spokes
Wheels bearings have no play and rotate smoothly
Wheels are true

Frame
No major bends, cracks, huge dents, rust through frame
No dings or gouges through the resin on Carbon frame
Push against the cranks to check frame integrity
Check the dropouts on Carbon frames

Suspension
No major dents or breaks
Compression and rebound is smooth
Seals are good (holds are pressure, no oil leakage during compression or rebound)
All the controls function properly

Drive Train
No major damage, bent front der. cage, or damaged shifters
No broken, or otherwise damaged teeth on the chainrings or cassette
Shifts through all gears smoothly
Rear derailleur tension springs work fine

Brakes
Brake levers have no major damage
No damage to cable housing or hydraulic lines
Disc rotors have minimal to no warp
Brakes actuate and return properly and without hesitation

Other Parts
Quick releases function properly
No tears in the seat and seat rails are straight
Handlebars and stem have no damage and pass stress test
Pedal bearings are good and no major damage
Headset bearings are smooth
No play in the headset

Model and Price:

Location:

Notes:

Buyer’s Guide to Used Mountain Bikes

So you are looking for your next mountain bike. It is a big purchase, and a smart buy on the used market can save you a lot of money or give you a lot of headaches in the future. Many people abuse and improperly maintain their mountain bikes, and this may lead to problems easily noticeable as well as problems you will not be able to easily determine. This is where I hope to help. This guide combines the standard checklist for used bikes with a few extras to help you really get a good feel for how well taken care of the bike was.

Easy Tells
This is one step a lot of people don’t think about when buying anything used. Inspecting the bike for wear and damage will only tell you so much, but a few questions and indicators can tell you if the owner took good care of the bike or if it was abused and improperly maintained. The first thing to do is talk to the owner if you can. Don’t turn it into an inquisition, be casual. If you ask someone straight away how often did you maintain the bike most people will exaggerate the truth a bit. Start the conversation by mentioning that it looks like a great bike, or some other compliment, that’ll usually get them talking. Find out if they have other bikes or ride often, basically get a feel for their biking experience. Now is the time to find out how often they rode it and why they are selling it. Keep in mind that miles or ride time on a mountain bike mean absolutely nothing. I have seen bikes taken through washes and thousands of miles across country that were methodically maintained and remain immaculate. On the flipside I’ve seen bikes that were out ten miles and came back with broken chainrings and bent rear shocks. All you want to do is find out if this person knows bikes well, kept it maintained, had any accidents, just a little bit of the history.

After you had your little conversation, or even during, it is time to check some indicator spots to see if it was regularly maintained. A rusty chain, dry rotted tires, sun damaged reflectors, mud/dirt, and decaying seat mean this thing was stored outside and not cared for whatsoever. If it passes that test look for frayed cables, damaged cable housing, a bent derailleur hanger, and dirt and grease build up around and in the derailleurs. These mean that the owner probably put in some basic maintenance but not much beyond that. It doesn’t mean the bike is a bad choice, but there may be some hidden damage to watch out for. If it passes both of these tests with consideration (if it looks fine other than a frayed cable or something else very minor that’s not much to worry about) then you have the makings of a great bike, as the owner probably put in the time and effort to fully maintain it, and ensure the proper functioning of every part. You still are far away from a decision, but this will give you some background info to help make a final decision. Time for the rest of the tests.

Wheels
Check for loose, broken and missing spokes (spokes typically break at the nipple on the rim or the hub) by wiggling each one individually and carefully inspecting. Check the rim for any major damage and then wiggle the rim side to side to see if there is any play in the bearings. Spin the wheels checking wheel true (side to side movement in the rim) and listening for any strange noise from the bearings. Take time to inspect the wheels thoroughly.

Frame
First check the frame for cracks, dents or bends. If there is rust (only on steel frames) tap it to see if it flakes off or it is just on the surface. Aluminum, steel and titanium frames can take dents, gouges and dings without compromising the structural integrity, for the most part. Cracks, bends and huge dents mean the frame needs to be replaced. Face the bike like you are about to get on. Hold one of the handlebar grips in one hand and let the bike tilt away from you a little bit. Use your feet to rotate the cranks to their lowest point, and push on the side of the crank. As you do this make sure the frame flexes forward and back without any give or abnormal creaking noises. Most frames will creak when you do this, but you want to listen for any cracks being stressed, which will sound a bit different.

For carbon fiber frames you need to be a more cautious. Dings and scratches that do not fully penetrate through the resin clearcoat are nothing to worry about. Obviously cracks in any frame are a sure sign of failure, but smaller gouges through the resin coat may or may not prove to be a structural problem. Test the integrity of the frame by applying force. In other words you need to push against the frame, especially at joints to stress possible problem areas. If you hear carbon cracking (you’ll know it when you hear it) or see a crack in that spot opening, stop. This means the frame needs to be repaired or replaced. As a side note let the owner know what you are doing before you try this in case you open a crack: The owner may try to blame you for breaking their frame. On carbon fiber frames, sometimes the dropouts are carbon as well, so pull the wheels off and take a look just to be sure that there is no excess wear or damage.

Suspension
First visually inspect the suspension for any major dents or breaks. If it looks good compress it and let it rebound a few times. Focus on how it feels when you compress the suspension. It should be smooth and even in the travel. Watch for any oil leaking while you compress it. If the bike has air suspension and it is currently empty make sure you pressure test it to ensure the seals are good. Check to make sure all of the adjustments like rebound, compression and travel adjust function, if the bike has them.

Brakes
Inspect the levers and make sure they function with no issues. Check the cables and housing/hydraulic lines for any damage. For rim brakes make sure the calipers rebound promptly after you release the brake lever and they are not bent. For disc brakes spin the wheel watching the brake rotor for any bending or warping. Minor warping is common and that can be fixed if you know how, or want to pay for it. You can also run disc with slight warping, they will change due to the frictional heat.  Read more

Beginner’s Guide to Clipless Pedals

From my bike shop days, one of the most confusing things for new riders is the clipless pedal. There are a lot of myths and questions surrounding them, I hope I can shed some light on the differences and what they can do for you.

Clipless pedals allow a rider to clip into the pedal. Weird I know, but the term actually evolved from the old cage/clip pedals. When the next generation came out they were called clipless pedals. Clipless pedals require a special shoe and pedal combination. A cleat that matches the pedal is attached to the bottom of the shoe so you can attach yourself to the pedal. The shoes not only provide a mounting point for the cleat, but feature stiff soles to provide better power transfer. There are different kinds of shoes as well; road and mountain, plus a few variations in between. Consult your local bike shop for details.

The reason why clipless pedals are so popular is power. In a normal pedal stroke all of your power is derived from the down stroke, when you push down on the pedal. By clipping in, your foot is attached, so as you move your foot down then back up and around, you pull the pedal with your leg. This allows you to utilize some of the power you are already expending to move your leg, as well as transfer more energy to your bike in every stroke. As far as power goes, clipless pedals are the best for energy transfer, even superior to cage pedals.

To use clipless pedals angle your foot forward, push the front of the cleat into the pedal, then push down to lock in the back of the cleat. To get out simply twist your heel to the outside, but be mindful not to pull up. This makes clipless pedals much easier and safer to get out of than the old cage pedals: Even when you fall, most of the time your feet will naturally clip out. You will probably fall the first few times, so when starting out it is a good idea to practice in a grassy field until you get used to the action.

When you are looking for clipless pedals you have a couple of options. The three major types for mountain biking are SPD, Crank Brothers and Time pedals. I haven’t had much experience with Time pedals, but they are usually preferred by downhillers and aggressive riders. Crank Brother are the most lax as they offer four sided entry, lots of float, and easy clipping out. As a side note float is the amount of movement you have back and forth before your foot clips out. These are great pedals to start on. SPD pedals offer two sided entry, have less float and hold you in better. They are a common choice for racers and anyone looking for a tighter feel. If you are a roadie turned mountain biker you’ll likely prefer SPDs. SPDs also come in hybrid varieties. These pedals have a standard platform on one side and an SPD mount on the other.

There are a lot of other factors to consider before you choose the perfect pedal. Some designs have larger platforms to protect the pedal and spread your weight over a larger area. Weight is also a consideration as is design. For example Crank Brothers pedals are known for their extremely simple design that utilizes open rails to shed mud and some alternate designs, like the Candy C pedals, keep the pedal protected from impacts on the trail. For more help your best resource is your local bike shop.

If you have been considering cage pedals or have strayed away from clipless for one reason or another, I can say that they are much easier to use than many people often think; not to mention the extra power benefit is huge! They are not just for racers. The extra power can turn a discouraging trail into a worthy challenge. Happy trails!

Angles and Sizes, and How They Affect Your Bike

Geometry
Bike geometry is a big term and comprises of many complex angles and lengths. Most of these remain standard for the most part and do not greatly affect the ride characteristics of a bike. However there are a few measurements that can help you select the perfect frame or bike.

1. Head Angle is the angle of the head tube and fork with the ground. Cross-country bikes have tight head angles of 70-71 degrees. All mountain and downhill bikes will have a slack head angle from 66-69 degrees. A slack head angle will allow the bike to fly through technical sections easier; the downside is slacker head angles mean slower handling and climbing. The fork length directly affects this angle. Putting a 160mm fork on a XC bike designed for 100 will give the bike a slack head angle.
2. Seat Angle refers to the angle of the seat to the angle of the chainstay. Steep angles will put you almost directly over the cranks for optimum pedal efficiency whereas slack angles will sit you back, to more easily take on the technical stuff. Bikes with slack seat angles are paired with slack head angles and vice versa.
3. Bottom Bracket Height is the clearance your bike has. Your bottom bracket is the lowest point on your bicycle and when you’re getting into technical terrain and hoppin’ rocks, clearance can become a concern. All-mountain and downhill style bikes will have higher bottom bracket heights than cross-country bikes. Nevertheless the higher the bottom bracket height the higher your center of gravity. High bottom brackets mean slow cornering but can save your chain rings from bashing into rocks.

Fit
Fit is very important when it comes to bikes. Improper fit can lead to poor control, loss of power, and even pain and joint/muscle problems. This is just a quick guide to show you what different angles and sizes do to change the performance of a bike. For info on the actual fitting process do some searching or visit your local bike shop.

1. Frame Fit is based on a couple of factors: Your height will of course be the main factor, but another thing to keep in mind is your riding style. For example a 6’2” person will be a perfect fit on a 21” cross-country hardtail, however they could also fit on a 20” or even a 19”. For long rides with less technical terrain, a larger bike will be better, in our example the 21”. Say our rider wants a hardtail but will be riding on more technical terrain with quick turns. In this case a 20” or 19.5” would be a better choice. A smaller frame will give you more control over the bike in tight and technical sections. Longer bikes will be more stable and comfortable for longer rides. I have a 20” single speed and a 19” geared hardtail. My single speed is great for cruising through national forests, while my geared hardtail is my first choice for anything really technical or fast.
2. Stem length and Angle will change your riding position on the bike. For more climbing run a longer stem (90mm –120mm), with 0-10 degrees or rise. This will keep more weight forward and put you in a more efficient pedaling position. For downhill and technical terrain run shorter stems (40 – 70mm) with 10-15 degrees of rise. For a combination run a stem in between these measurements.
3. Seat Height is a pretty easy adjustment. Sit on your seat and stabilize the bike. Put the heel of one foot on the pedal and bring the pedal down so the crank arm is parallel with the seat tube. At this point your leg should be able to straighten out completely. If you cannot straighten your leg out fully raise your seat, and if it feels like a stretch lower your seat. For more technical riding run your seat lower. This will sacrifice pedaling power but give you more room to move around as you conquer the rough stuff.
4. Seat Angle: For climbing point the nose of your saddle slightly up, for downhill and jumping put it slightly down. If you do both, keep it level.
5. Seat Position (forward and backward position) will change your riding posture. This will mainly affect your lower back. The easiest way to adjust this is just try to feel it out (concentrate on how your lower back feels, tight or stretched) or have an experienced rider watch your position.
6. Lever Position should be set up so when you brake, your arms and wrists will be in a straight line. For braking on flats your levers will be tilted downward more than for downhill. Choose a setup that will be comfortable for the majority of terrain you are riding.

The Single Speed Guide

I remember when I was trying to put together my first single-speed. Being the guy I am, I HAD to know everything about them. Gearing, chain tension options, do I need different wheels? I spent hours scouring the net and consulting everyone who ever heard of one. Like most things in life everyone has a different opinion, and making sense out of all the differing information was difficult to say the least. I created this guide to help others make sense of the sometimes overwhelming amount of information regarding single speeds. I want to keep this guide open to additions, so if any SS aficionados have any tips or corrections please leave a comment. Any questions are more than welcome as well.

What is it and why should I Have One?
The single speed, commonly abbreviated SS, refers to a bike with only one gear or speed. SS’s exist in many different forms including mountain bikes, road bikes and BMX. There are also fixed gear bikes that have one speed but no freewheel: As long as your bike moves, your pedals move, so no coasting. These are referred to exclusively as fixed gear bikes, SS’s always have a freewheel for coasting. Single speed bikes, especially in the mountain bike world, have been steadily gaining popularity over the years, and for good reason. This guide is specific to single speed mountain bikes, although a lot of the information can be useful for road, BMX or even fixed gear.

The big draw for single-speeds is the simplicity. In a world of increasing complication SS’s mean two brake levers and pedals: There are no shifters or derailleurs to master, adjust and maintain, just jump on and go. They offer a retro feel, like you’re going back to a simpler time, getting back to basics. Besides that they are great for training: Spend a few weeks doing hill sprints, and deep sand and tough climbs will come easy. Another thing SS’s teach you is how to use the trail. With our full suspension bikes and infinite gears we like to plow through and over objects trying to conquer the next trail. Trust me, I’m one for the monster truck mentality, but finesse is good too at times. Singles will quickly teach you a new definition of momentum. Small dips and embankments that you used to classify as obstacles become tools to increase your momentum. You learn to become one with the trail and use every twist and turn to help you move faster and expend less energy. When you jump back on your geared bike you will notice a huge increase in your efficiency.

Besides training and simplicity a new culture has evolved around SS’s. Today many race circuits offer single speed categories and many websites are dedicated to the phenomenon. Perhaps the best thing about single speeds is they can be built from carbon and Ti, or created by transforming that old backup mountain bike you never ride. Either way try it! It doesn’t cost a lot to get a bike built up, and it offers a completely different experience.

Chain Tension
On a standard bike the rear derailleur uses a system of springs and pulleys to keep the chain tensioned. Chain tension is important so your chain fully engages with the cogs. Without proper tension your chain will slip and skip over teeth. Since you won’t have a derailleur on your single speed, you need to find another way to keep your chain tensioned.

Dropouts
If you do not already know, dropouts are the parts on your frame that the axles on your wheels sit in. There are three major types of rear dropouts, standard, track and horizontal. The standard dropout is the most common and means you will need to use a tensioner or something else to keep chain tension. If you have the angled style horizontal dropouts, or track (rear facing horizontal drop outs), you can tension your chain simply by pulling the wheel tight before closing your quick release. I have heard various opinions on the quick release’s ability to hold chain tension, so if you find that your wheel slowly drifts forward and you are using horizontal dropouts, buy a BMX style chain tensioner/tug nut (not the derailleur type, this tensioner mounts inside of the dropout and has a setscrew to keep the wheel’s axle from moving forward).  Read more

All About Dropouts

Dropouts are the part of your bike frame where the wheel’s axle rests (See picture). Different dropouts let your bike do different things. There primary purpose is to keep your wheel in place and hold tension on your chain.

Standard Drop Out

The standard drop out is, most common. It is just a slot that allows the axle to rest. These almost always include a derailleur hanger for mounting a rear derailleur. Unlike the other styles of drop outs they don’t allow for chain tension adjustment. For standard drop outs a rear derailleur or other device acts as a chain tensioner in order to keep the chain from skipping over gears

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Horizontal Drop Out

Horizontal drop outs, also called track drop outs, are usually found on single speed specific bike frames. These allow for the wheel to be moved backward or forward in the drop out to get the perfect chain tension. A chain tensioner, also called a chain tug, fits inside of the drop out and setscrews adjust the tension. Sometimes these will include a derailleur hanger to mount a rear derailleur, but it is rare.

Front Facing Horizontal Drop Out

Front facing horizontal dropouts are angled and allow the chain tension to be adjusted a bit. These are common on older bikes to help get the tension perfect. They work well for single speed applications as well, and because of the angled design of the dropout, the tension will pull against the frame and the quick release. That means that a quick release can usually hold the tension on the chain without slipping, whereas a horizontal dropout usually requires a chain tensioner or bolt-on hub. With a normal horizontal drop out, the chain pulls directly against the quick release. These almost always include a hanger to mount a rear derailleur.

There are also all kinds of hybrid designs on the market: Everything from drop outs that morph from standard to horizontal, to strange eccentric drop out designs.

Going the Distance…The Tools and Gear to Bring With You on Your Next Long Distance Journey

You’re a seasoned veteran of the mountain bike and as you seek new adventures in untamed wilderness. BE PREPARED! Minimal first aid and backup supplies may work for the trail rider, but for those long adventures it is very important to be ready for any problems nature may throw at you… your life may depend on it. One of the main considerations with anything regarding bikes is weight and size. More gear adds weight, and nobody wants to carry a huge pack. By finding items that can fulfill a variety of uses you can drastically cut the weight and size of your emergency gear. I have designed this guide for the minimalist rider. It will give you the essential tools you need to survive, but you may want to further your knowledge and your gear selection depending on your needs and wilderness experience.

Bike Operation
Bike operation is simply what you need to keep your bike operational. A breakdown 30 miles from any civilized help can be a real issue. If you are reading this you probably have all of the essentials like the multi tool, tubes, patches, air pump and whatever else. One great tool you should include for your next adventure is a good multi-tool (as in a Gerber or Leatherman foldout, not the bike multi tool). The pliers on these can help you bend broken spokes out of the way or provide an improvised tool to fix a host of problems. Not to mention the screwdriver, knife and other attachments give you more options and wider variety of tools to fix whatever. Other things to carry are a spoke wrench, extra spokes, a tire boot if you don’t already (even if you’re not running tubeless), duct tape (reroll a few feet yourself to save space), a rag, lube, a chain breaker, extra links and even a small adjustable wrench. I know it sounds like a lot, but none of these items take up very much space and they can really get you out of some tight jams. Another one of the best tools you can carry with you is knowledge. I know some people don’t like to, but make an effort to learn how to repair your bike. There are numerous classes, books and WebPages that provide detailed instructions. The Park Tool website is one of the best, in my opinion.

First Aid
Hopefully you are already carrying the basic stuff with you. The biggest mistake I see people make is they carry only supplies like Band-Aids and ointment to take care of minor cuts and scrapes. I don’t know about you but minor cuts and scrapes aren’t really a big concern for me when I’m on the trail: On the other hand fractures, gashes and major wounds are. This is especially important when you are out blazin’ epic trails, across steep technical mountainsides, far away from civilization. On urban trails you don’t have to worry about first aid much, but as you venture farther away from civilization you usually encounter more difficult terrain and become farther from help. We take for granted the first aid services in the city and even small towns. Out in the wilderness we might be hours or days away from any aid, and that is if we can contact someone right away. If you are out of cell phone range, you may even have to hike back a ways just to send out a distress call! This is why it is so important to be prepared. Some things to bring are Band-Aids, moleskin (for blisters), duct tape (for closing large wounds in a pinch), 3M Coban (I prefer the veterinary stuff, also doubles as ACE wrap), gauze (roll it tight and put it in the center of the Coban roll), sterile dressings, large butterfly bandages, triangular bandages (many, many uses), Ibuprofen and Aspirin (take Ibuprofen to kill pain while you have a wound and Aspirin for headaches and other things…Aspirin is a blood thinner but also an anti-inflammatory), and an instant cold pack. There are many other First Aid products you can stuff in your pack, but these will allow you to stay minimalist and have the first aid gear you need for almost any situation. Splints are another good idea, but these can be improvised in the field without too much work (SAM splints are great though!). If you want to further prepare yourself, learn what to do: Take Wilderness First Aid! Many organizations offer it including the Red Cross. There are lots of options as far as First Aid classes go, but Wilderness First Aid teaches you what to do in delayed care situations, which you will be in. Standard First Aid classes teach you what you need to do to keep the victim alive until the ambulance arrives, but in the Wilderness, help may not even be coming until you go and get it.

Survival/Emergency Gear

You may find yourself in a situation where you get delayed, your bike is broken or you are injured too much to continue. A small kit of a few essentials can save your life! Some of the survival needs are water, food, shelter, first aid and signals. There are also other things like fire and human contact. The importance of each will depend on the resources on hand and what you can locate nearby. KNOW YOUR ENVIRONMENT! If it is cold and windy shelter and fire are going to be your first priority. Hot and dry means you might need to find another source of water and locate shade. Tailor your gear to your environment. Here are some essentials almost everyone should carry: A good multi-tool (I like Gerber), some rope (not string), a couple light sticks (for signaling), magnesium flint fire starter (lighters and matches suck in the wind), headlamp (Black Diamond has some of the best, with dual NiCad and AA operation, you’ll stop spending money on flashlights after you buy one), GPS (great idea to keep track of your position, Garmin has some with high gain antennas for better reception), extra batteries, water purification tablets, poncho, solar blanket, ID bracelet, duct tape (see a pattern?) map of the area, and a compass. Better yet don’t just pack ‘em, learn how to use them. Practice makes perfect and gives you the confidence you need to turn a life and death situation into a simple exercise in your problem solving skills. Read more

Hardtail VS. Full-Suspension: Which is Right for You?

The battle of the hardtail and the full-suspension is the stuff of legend. It is a burning question of both newbies and seasoned riders: Forum flame-wars are started at the mere mention of it. Everybody has the friend that swears a hardtail is the only way to go if you want to climb, and another that tells you there’s no way but the full-suspension way. So what is the difference really?

The battle is changing constantly. Bikes have progressed greatly since the fore-fathers of mountain biking created the sport back in the 1950’s. Today new materials, designs, and fabrication techniques flood the market from an immense source of innovative manufacturers. Back in the day when the full-suspension bike was a new idea, it was heavy, cumbersome, slow, and inefficient; today many of those original stigmas are history. Nevertheless the hardtail still has a strong foothold in the market and for good reason.

Let’s Break it Down:

The Details:

That should give you a basic overview, but let’s look at this in a little more detail. The weight factor can be an issue with the full-suspension vs. hardtail battle, however with today’s technologies, several sub 20lb. fulls exist, if you are willing to dish out the cash. Dollar for dollar you will commonly get a hardtail that is a few (2-5) pounds lighter than a full-suspension. Now you may be asking yourself, how much does a couple pounds actually matter? The honest answer is it depends on what you are doing. A lighter bike will lend an advantage to climbing as well as a small advantage to handling (the lighter weight allows easier control and quicker response). A couple pounds can make a bit of difference, but it is not the only thing to consider.

Agility is better on a hardtail because of a typically shorter wheel base, lighter total weight, and stiff rear end. If you are looking for a bike that has a fast handling response a hardtail might be the answer, but don’t decide yet. When it comes to handling in technical situations, with lots of loose rock and other obstacles, full-suspensions excel. Good technique can get you through a lot of tough terrain on a hardtail, but you may come to situations where you just aren’t going to make it through. The full-suspension not only absorbs the impacts of obstacles but allows for more traction to be transferred to the ground on technical terrain. This means that although hardtails are better climbers in smoother terrain, in severely rocky terrain a good cross-country full-suspension will far outperform it.

In the beginnings of the full-suspension bike maintenance was a big issue. With today’s technology many of the problems with seals, bad bushing/bearings and breakage are gone. On a full-suspension you have a rear shock and pivots in addition to all of the normal components. The shocks of today rarely fail when adjusted properly. The worst you will see is a failing seal, and that should only occur after many years of use. The pivots can sometimes trap dirt and water and creak as the rear triangle moves. By taking these pivots apart and regreasing the problem is easily remedied. Nevertheless it can still be a nuisance, and some frame designs are more susceptible to this than others.

The general rule of thumb is the more technical the terrain the more travel you need, but always take the time to consider your personal riding style. I am a hardtail fanatic, yet I still take on technically challenging trails. There are times on the trail when I wish I was on a full, yet I love the tight handling and speed that only a hardtail can deliver. It is the difference between driving a rally car or an off-road masher. Each has benefits and costs. Pick the one that is best for your situation. Find a good bike shop near you that can let you feel the differences in each option. There are many choices out there, with numerous suspension designs, travel options and frame materials. A good bike shop is the best guide. Happy trails!

Advanced Hydration for Distance Riders

If your new to the sport there is a simple rule, if your thirsty drink; in fact you should be drinking before your thirsty since you are already 2% dehydrated by the time you crave water. If you’ve been riding for a while, and starting to travel outwards on some longer rides, water can be an important factor in how far you can travel. Know the signs and symptoms of dehydration and learn how to plan ahead for your next distance ride.

Dehydration:
Water is essential to life: 75% of the human body is comprised of it. Survivalists live by the rule of threes. The average person can survive 3 months without human contact, 3 weeks without shelter or food and 3 days without water. Of course every person is different. Eventually, as we exercise in the outdoors, our body becomes more efficient at using its’ resources, including water. Environmental factors including temperature, humidity and cover will also play greatly on the body’s need for water, as will activity level. Dehydration is the enemy and slight thirst can quickly lead to more severe and crippling symptoms.

2-5% Dehydrated: Thirst, irritability, nausea and weakness.
10% Dehydrated: Dizziness, headache, inability to walk and tingling sensation in the extremities.
15% Dehydrated: Dim vision, painful urination, swollen tongue, deafness and numb feeling in the skin.
Greater than 15% Dehydrated: Eventually leads to death.

There are some other indicators you should be aware of as the best way to combat dehydration is to know when it is approaching.

• Dark Urine
• Low Urine Output
• Fatigue
• Emotional Instability
• Loss of Skin Elasticity
• Trench Line Down the Center of the Tongue
• Delayed Capillary Refill in Fingernail Beds
• Thirst

Water Requirements:
The typical mountain biker can go through anywhere from 10-40 ounces of water an hour. Before embarking on your next cross country journey be sure you are prepared. The best way to determine your specific water requirement is to ride. Fill up your hydration pack and go ride for 2-3 hours under the same stress and conditions you will face on your distance ride. Remember that the intensity of the ride (i.e. climbs and technical stuff) will drastically affect your water requirement, so be as accurate as possible. At the end of the ride check to see how much water you drank and divide that by how many hours you were out. From there it’s a simple matter of estimating how long you’ll be out and multiply that times your water need. Now add in 10-30 extra ounces in case of a detour or unplanned stop. It’s a good idea to keep extra water in your vehicle too, so when you do make it back, you won’t be scrambling to quench your thirst.

Water on the Trail:
200 ounces of water is about the max you’ll want to carry on your bike: You may not even be comfortable with that much. That being said longer rides may require more water than you can carry. The first thing to look for is any nearby stores, parks or other areas where you can readily obtain water. If that isn’t an option nature may be able to provide what you need. Natural creeks, rivers and lakes can provide you with a refill point. If you plan to pursue this option you NEED some form of water purification. Nature, as beautiful as it is, hides many nasty bacteria, viruses and insects, especially in water. The easiest solution is a portable filter or filter bottle. You can purchase one of these at almost any outdoor store or online. Look for something with a three stage filter that eliminates tastes, odors, sediments and bacteria. Also look at the micron size of the filter. The smaller this measurement is, the more pure the water will be. If you plan to use a natural source of water be absolutely certain the creek or river you plan to take water from will be full when you ride. There is nothing worse then getting to your refill point only to find nothing but dry dirt. Also try to plan your water stop when you will be about half out. If something happens and your water supply is not what you expected, you still have enough to get you back home safely. Never drink from stagnant pools or down river from dead animals that may be lying in the water. In an emergency if there is water drink it, but otherwise use caution and common sense. In a pinch a shirt or other fine fabric can filter sediments and insects. You can also dig a hole next to a water source, below the water line. It will fill up and the surrounding dirt will trap insects and even some bacteria. Do not use any of these methods unless it is an emergency!

Electrolytes:
For rides over 45 minutes you will need to replenish your electrolytes. Electrolytes help your body store water, which helps prevent dehydration. Most energy drinks include sodium and potassium so if you are going to use an energy drink mix, you probably already have this covered. If not you might want to bring a water bottle full of Gatorade in addition to your Camelbak. Either way make sure you replenish your electrolytes for longer rides.

Be prepared, be smart and know what you’re up against. Plan ahead and don’t underestimate your terrain or overestimate your abilities. Training and knowledge are two of the most important tools you can ally yourself with. But don’t be afraid to get out there and experience the beautiful wonders nature holds. Happy riding!

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