Old Man Mountain Biker: Why I Ride

The Old Man lives in Denver, Colorado and rides 6 days a week.

I am 51 years old, 5’8” and a tad over 200 pounds. I used to be 41 years old, 5’9” and 170 pounds. How the hell did I get to be so old? There is grey in my hair, on my face, and lets not go into the back hair.

I started riding a mountain bike when I moved to Denver from California 4 years ago. I bought one off the Internet; got myself a double suspension Motobecane Mountain bike. The bike came in a big box, delivered by UPS. The local bike shop put it together for 35 bucks and I was in business. It was sized for a guy who was 5’ 8”.

I started to ride every other day. I didn’t have a helmet; no gloves, no water bottle, and none of those faggy bright bike clothes. I rode for 15 minutes at a time….went up a “big” hill and rode back down; broke a small sweat and man, I was “exercising”. I had bought the bike in the fall and when Winter came along, I didn’t ride for 4 months…and I gained another 15 pounds. WTF was I thinking?

Spring awoke and daylight started to come along a bit early…and there was this big huge state park that my home backs up to. I decided to go exploring; the problem was that the park was downhill and it was a long ride back up. What did I see when I started to explore the park?

Well at first, all I saw were “Road Bikes”. I HATE Road Bikes, but that’s another story. I went “off-road” through the walking trails, through the woods, along the reservoir, into the “hiker-only” trails. I started to ride every day. I saw deer, foxes, coyote’s, Big Horned Owls, mice, bright yellow little birdies, and on occasion hikers, who gave me the finger when I was riding on hiker only trails. I sure as hell didn’t see any road bikers. I also developed some favorite trails, learned to stump jump, and oh yeah, got stuck in the mud….did the face plant over the handlebars in the mud, and broke my back axle.

I eventually got a water bottle holder, some bike shoes and socks; finally got 3 pairs of biking tops; one a cool Irish racing team one….but my daughters refuse to let me wear spandex shorts;;;”euuu Dad Grosse…even gay men don’t look good in Spandex”…ok ok ok, so I wear cargo shorts.

So why do I ride? I wake up every day and think to myself, what trail out of hundreds am I going to ride today? Do I want a hard ride or an easy ride? Do I want to jump stumps? Do I want to ride on the ice? The snow? Do I feel like “mudding” today? I need my FIX. I have to ride. If I don’t ride, I feel like something is missing. I need an hour on the bike EVERY day. Work gets in the way, the wife gets in the way, travel gets in the way, school stuff gets in the way, my daughters get in the way and the dog needs to be walked, but damn it…I NEED to ride.

My articles aren’t about what a wonderful technical rider I am and how much I know about Shimano shifters and graphite forks. After all I ride a POS Motobecane. Its about the Ride; mistakes I have made and Graces I have enjoyed by riding. Here are some of the topics I will be covering with you over the coming weeks and months.

1. How to buy a Mountain bike; how to fit your size to the frame, and the critical positioning of the seat post and how to keep from becoming sterile. (lol)

2. Riding a Mountain bike over frozen lakes and what to do when you hit “slick Ice”.

3. How to ride in the snow.

4. How to fit your bike riding into your work schedule.

5. How to dress for riding.

6. Cool place to Ride in Colorado.

7. Downhill Extreme Mountain biking

8. Why Assholes on Road bikes pass you easily.

9. How to break your back crankshaft while jumping tree logs.

10. Best way to warp your frame; or the difference between carbon and aluminum and why you should care.

See you on the Trail…

Beginner’s Guide to Clipless Pedals

From my bike shop days, one of the most confusing things for new riders is the clipless pedal. There are a lot of myths and questions surrounding them, I hope I can shed some light on the differences and what they can do for you.

Clipless pedals allow a rider to clip into the pedal. Weird I know, but the term actually evolved from the old cage/clip pedals. When the next generation came out they were called clipless pedals. Clipless pedals require a special shoe and pedal combination. A cleat that matches the pedal is attached to the bottom of the shoe so you can attach yourself to the pedal. The shoes not only provide a mounting point for the cleat, but feature stiff soles to provide better power transfer. There are different kinds of shoes as well; road and mountain, plus a few variations in between. Consult your local bike shop for details.

The reason why clipless pedals are so popular is power. In a normal pedal stroke all of your power is derived from the down stroke, when you push down on the pedal. By clipping in, your foot is attached, so as you move your foot down then back up and around, you pull the pedal with your leg. This allows you to utilize some of the power you are already expending to move your leg, as well as transfer more energy to your bike in every stroke. As far as power goes, clipless pedals are the best for energy transfer, even superior to cage pedals.

To use clipless pedals angle your foot forward, push the front of the cleat into the pedal, then push down to lock in the back of the cleat. To get out simply twist your heel to the outside, but be mindful not to pull up. This makes clipless pedals much easier and safer to get out of than the old cage pedals: Even when you fall, most of the time your feet will naturally clip out. You will probably fall the first few times, so when starting out it is a good idea to practice in a grassy field until you get used to the action.

When you are looking for clipless pedals you have a couple of options. The three major types for mountain biking are SPD, Crank Brothers and Time pedals. I haven’t had much experience with Time pedals, but they are usually preferred by downhillers and aggressive riders. Crank Brother are the most lax as they offer four sided entry, lots of float, and easy clipping out. As a side note float is the amount of movement you have back and forth before your foot clips out. These are great pedals to start on. SPD pedals offer two sided entry, have less float and hold you in better. They are a common choice for racers and anyone looking for a tighter feel. If you are a roadie turned mountain biker you’ll likely prefer SPDs. SPDs also come in hybrid varieties. These pedals have a standard platform on one side and an SPD mount on the other.

There are a lot of other factors to consider before you choose the perfect pedal. Some designs have larger platforms to protect the pedal and spread your weight over a larger area. Weight is also a consideration as is design. For example Crank Brothers pedals are known for their extremely simple design that utilizes open rails to shed mud and some alternate designs, like the Candy C pedals, keep the pedal protected from impacts on the trail. For more help your best resource is your local bike shop.

If you have been considering cage pedals or have strayed away from clipless for one reason or another, I can say that they are much easier to use than many people often think; not to mention the extra power benefit is huge! They are not just for racers. The extra power can turn a discouraging trail into a worthy challenge. Happy trails!

Angles and Sizes, and How They Affect Your Bike

Geometry
Bike geometry is a big term and comprises of many complex angles and lengths. Most of these remain standard for the most part and do not greatly affect the ride characteristics of a bike. However there are a few measurements that can help you select the perfect frame or bike.

1. Head Angle is the angle of the head tube and fork with the ground. Cross-country bikes have tight head angles of 70-71 degrees. All mountain and downhill bikes will have a slack head angle from 66-69 degrees. A slack head angle will allow the bike to fly through technical sections easier; the downside is slacker head angles mean slower handling and climbing. The fork length directly affects this angle. Putting a 160mm fork on a XC bike designed for 100 will give the bike a slack head angle.
2. Seat Angle refers to the angle of the seat to the angle of the chainstay. Steep angles will put you almost directly over the cranks for optimum pedal efficiency whereas slack angles will sit you back, to more easily take on the technical stuff. Bikes with slack seat angles are paired with slack head angles and vice versa.
3. Bottom Bracket Height is the clearance your bike has. Your bottom bracket is the lowest point on your bicycle and when you’re getting into technical terrain and hoppin’ rocks, clearance can become a concern. All-mountain and downhill style bikes will have higher bottom bracket heights than cross-country bikes. Nevertheless the higher the bottom bracket height the higher your center of gravity. High bottom brackets mean slow cornering but can save your chain rings from bashing into rocks.

Fit
Fit is very important when it comes to bikes. Improper fit can lead to poor control, loss of power, and even pain and joint/muscle problems. This is just a quick guide to show you what different angles and sizes do to change the performance of a bike. For info on the actual fitting process do some searching or visit your local bike shop.

1. Frame Fit is based on a couple of factors: Your height will of course be the main factor, but another thing to keep in mind is your riding style. For example a 6’2” person will be a perfect fit on a 21” cross-country hardtail, however they could also fit on a 20” or even a 19”. For long rides with less technical terrain, a larger bike will be better, in our example the 21”. Say our rider wants a hardtail but will be riding on more technical terrain with quick turns. In this case a 20” or 19.5” would be a better choice. A smaller frame will give you more control over the bike in tight and technical sections. Longer bikes will be more stable and comfortable for longer rides. I have a 20” single speed and a 19” geared hardtail. My single speed is great for cruising through national forests, while my geared hardtail is my first choice for anything really technical or fast.
2. Stem length and Angle will change your riding position on the bike. For more climbing run a longer stem (90mm –120mm), with 0-10 degrees or rise. This will keep more weight forward and put you in a more efficient pedaling position. For downhill and technical terrain run shorter stems (40 – 70mm) with 10-15 degrees of rise. For a combination run a stem in between these measurements.
3. Seat Height is a pretty easy adjustment. Sit on your seat and stabilize the bike. Put the heel of one foot on the pedal and bring the pedal down so the crank arm is parallel with the seat tube. At this point your leg should be able to straighten out completely. If you cannot straighten your leg out fully raise your seat, and if it feels like a stretch lower your seat. For more technical riding run your seat lower. This will sacrifice pedaling power but give you more room to move around as you conquer the rough stuff.
4. Seat Angle: For climbing point the nose of your saddle slightly up, for downhill and jumping put it slightly down. If you do both, keep it level.
5. Seat Position (forward and backward position) will change your riding posture. This will mainly affect your lower back. The easiest way to adjust this is just try to feel it out (concentrate on how your lower back feels, tight or stretched) or have an experienced rider watch your position.
6. Lever Position should be set up so when you brake, your arms and wrists will be in a straight line. For braking on flats your levers will be tilted downward more than for downhill. Choose a setup that will be comfortable for the majority of terrain you are riding.

The Single Speed Guide

I remember when I was trying to put together my first single-speed. Being the guy I am, I HAD to know everything about them. Gearing, chain tension options, do I need different wheels? I spent hours scouring the net and consulting everyone who ever heard of one. Like most things in life everyone has a different opinion, and making sense out of all the differing information was difficult to say the least. I created this guide to help others make sense of the sometimes overwhelming amount of information regarding single speeds. I want to keep this guide open to additions, so if any SS aficionados have any tips or corrections please leave a comment. Any questions are more than welcome as well.

What is it and why should I Have One?
The single speed, commonly abbreviated SS, refers to a bike with only one gear or speed. SS’s exist in many different forms including mountain bikes, road bikes and BMX. There are also fixed gear bikes that have one speed but no freewheel: As long as your bike moves, your pedals move, so no coasting. These are referred to exclusively as fixed gear bikes, SS’s always have a freewheel for coasting. Single speed bikes, especially in the mountain bike world, have been steadily gaining popularity over the years, and for good reason. This guide is specific to single speed mountain bikes, although a lot of the information can be useful for road, BMX or even fixed gear.

The big draw for single-speeds is the simplicity. In a world of increasing complication SS’s mean two brake levers and pedals: There are no shifters or derailleurs to master, adjust and maintain, just jump on and go. They offer a retro feel, like you’re going back to a simpler time, getting back to basics. Besides that they are great for training: Spend a few weeks doing hill sprints, and deep sand and tough climbs will come easy. Another thing SS’s teach you is how to use the trail. With our full suspension bikes and infinite gears we like to plow through and over objects trying to conquer the next trail. Trust me, I’m one for the monster truck mentality, but finesse is good too at times. Singles will quickly teach you a new definition of momentum. Small dips and embankments that you used to classify as obstacles become tools to increase your momentum. You learn to become one with the trail and use every twist and turn to help you move faster and expend less energy. When you jump back on your geared bike you will notice a huge increase in your efficiency.

Besides training and simplicity a new culture has evolved around SS’s. Today many race circuits offer single speed categories and many websites are dedicated to the phenomenon. Perhaps the best thing about single speeds is they can be built from carbon and Ti, or created by transforming that old backup mountain bike you never ride. Either way try it! It doesn’t cost a lot to get a bike built up, and it offers a completely different experience.

Chain Tension
On a standard bike the rear derailleur uses a system of springs and pulleys to keep the chain tensioned. Chain tension is important so your chain fully engages with the cogs. Without proper tension your chain will slip and skip over teeth. Since you won’t have a derailleur on your single speed, you need to find another way to keep your chain tensioned.

Dropouts
If you do not already know, dropouts are the parts on your frame that the axles on your wheels sit in. There are three major types of rear dropouts, standard, track and horizontal. The standard dropout is the most common and means you will need to use a tensioner or something else to keep chain tension. If you have the angled style horizontal dropouts, or track (rear facing horizontal drop outs), you can tension your chain simply by pulling the wheel tight before closing your quick release. I have heard various opinions on the quick release’s ability to hold chain tension, so if you find that your wheel slowly drifts forward and you are using horizontal dropouts, buy a BMX style chain tensioner/tug nut (not the derailleur type, this tensioner mounts inside of the dropout and has a setscrew to keep the wheel’s axle from moving forward).  Read more

All About Dropouts

Dropouts are the part of your bike frame where the wheel’s axle rests (See picture). Different dropouts let your bike do different things. There primary purpose is to keep your wheel in place and hold tension on your chain.

Standard Drop Out

The standard drop out is, most common. It is just a slot that allows the axle to rest. These almost always include a derailleur hanger for mounting a rear derailleur. Unlike the other styles of drop outs they don’t allow for chain tension adjustment. For standard drop outs a rear derailleur or other device acts as a chain tensioner in order to keep the chain from skipping over gears

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Horizontal Drop Out

Horizontal drop outs, also called track drop outs, are usually found on single speed specific bike frames. These allow for the wheel to be moved backward or forward in the drop out to get the perfect chain tension. A chain tensioner, also called a chain tug, fits inside of the drop out and setscrews adjust the tension. Sometimes these will include a derailleur hanger to mount a rear derailleur, but it is rare.

Front Facing Horizontal Drop Out

Front facing horizontal dropouts are angled and allow the chain tension to be adjusted a bit. These are common on older bikes to help get the tension perfect. They work well for single speed applications as well, and because of the angled design of the dropout, the tension will pull against the frame and the quick release. That means that a quick release can usually hold the tension on the chain without slipping, whereas a horizontal dropout usually requires a chain tensioner or bolt-on hub. With a normal horizontal drop out, the chain pulls directly against the quick release. These almost always include a hanger to mount a rear derailleur.

There are also all kinds of hybrid designs on the market: Everything from drop outs that morph from standard to horizontal, to strange eccentric drop out designs.

Hardtail VS. Full-Suspension: Which is Right for You?

The battle of the hardtail and the full-suspension is the stuff of legend. It is a burning question of both newbies and seasoned riders: Forum flame-wars are started at the mere mention of it. Everybody has the friend that swears a hardtail is the only way to go if you want to climb, and another that tells you there’s no way but the full-suspension way. So what is the difference really?

The battle is changing constantly. Bikes have progressed greatly since the fore-fathers of mountain biking created the sport back in the 1950’s. Today new materials, designs, and fabrication techniques flood the market from an immense source of innovative manufacturers. Back in the day when the full-suspension bike was a new idea, it was heavy, cumbersome, slow, and inefficient; today many of those original stigmas are history. Nevertheless the hardtail still has a strong foothold in the market and for good reason.

Let’s Break it Down:

The Details:

That should give you a basic overview, but let’s look at this in a little more detail. The weight factor can be an issue with the full-suspension vs. hardtail battle, however with today’s technologies, several sub 20lb. fulls exist, if you are willing to dish out the cash. Dollar for dollar you will commonly get a hardtail that is a few (2-5) pounds lighter than a full-suspension. Now you may be asking yourself, how much does a couple pounds actually matter? The honest answer is it depends on what you are doing. A lighter bike will lend an advantage to climbing as well as a small advantage to handling (the lighter weight allows easier control and quicker response). A couple pounds can make a bit of difference, but it is not the only thing to consider.

Agility is better on a hardtail because of a typically shorter wheel base, lighter total weight, and stiff rear end. If you are looking for a bike that has a fast handling response a hardtail might be the answer, but don’t decide yet. When it comes to handling in technical situations, with lots of loose rock and other obstacles, full-suspensions excel. Good technique can get you through a lot of tough terrain on a hardtail, but you may come to situations where you just aren’t going to make it through. The full-suspension not only absorbs the impacts of obstacles but allows for more traction to be transferred to the ground on technical terrain. This means that although hardtails are better climbers in smoother terrain, in severely rocky terrain a good cross-country full-suspension will far outperform it.

In the beginnings of the full-suspension bike maintenance was a big issue. With today’s technology many of the problems with seals, bad bushing/bearings and breakage are gone. On a full-suspension you have a rear shock and pivots in addition to all of the normal components. The shocks of today rarely fail when adjusted properly. The worst you will see is a failing seal, and that should only occur after many years of use. The pivots can sometimes trap dirt and water and creak as the rear triangle moves. By taking these pivots apart and regreasing the problem is easily remedied. Nevertheless it can still be a nuisance, and some frame designs are more susceptible to this than others.

The general rule of thumb is the more technical the terrain the more travel you need, but always take the time to consider your personal riding style. I am a hardtail fanatic, yet I still take on technically challenging trails. There are times on the trail when I wish I was on a full, yet I love the tight handling and speed that only a hardtail can deliver. It is the difference between driving a rally car or an off-road masher. Each has benefits and costs. Pick the one that is best for your situation. Find a good bike shop near you that can let you feel the differences in each option. There are many choices out there, with numerous suspension designs, travel options and frame materials. A good bike shop is the best guide. Happy trails!

Five Bikes This Downhiller Owns

I call my self a downhiller because it is the type of riding that I most identify with. However, I am a lover of all bikes and riding. I will never participate in the argument of which type of rider is better, (except maybe the fixie, indie rock, mustache clad hipsters; but they are an easy target). We riders on a fundamental level are all the same. We love to get out with our two wheels on the ground, and enjoy the world around us.

My Downhill Rig- It is the most ridiculous bike I own. It is the most expensive, time consuming and has an incredible appetite for parts and tires. This type of bike has put me on the operating table and has knocked me out twice. It has 9 inches suspension of travel in the rear and 8 in the front. This is my baby that I only get to ride maybe 20 times during the course of the year. Every day on this bike feels like a vacation (if there are no major crashes). It is a 2006 Foes Racing Fly with a Marzocchi 888 RC2X.

Cross Country Mountain Bike- I use the term cross country loosely. I don’t care how long it takes me to get to the top just as long as I get to ride down. My XC bike is heavy, with 2.35 wide tires, short stem and wide riser bar identical to my DH bike. It has six inches of travel front and rear. Despite the weight this bike is the one that I ride most. Trails are dry almost year round here, and Moab is a short drive away. The more time that I spend on this bike, the better off I am when the mountains dry out and I can take out my rig. It is a 2006 Trek Remedy 6.

Urban Hard Tail- As the name suggests, this bike never leaves the city. It is mandatory to own because it becomes the dumping ground for all the parts that I go through on my XC and DH bike. It started out as a cheap bike but has slowly accumulated some top shelf parts that have a little life left in them. The bike technically is two sizes too small for me, it feels like a grown up’s version of a BMX. This is also the bike that I practice the minimal trials skills that I have. This is also the closest thing that I have to a “townie” bike. It is the only one that I will lock up outside a bar, restaurant, or grocery store. Despite all of the nice parts on it, it is the cheapest bike I own. It is a 2005 Specialized Hard Rock, with nothing stock including the paint job.  Read more

Big Wheel Revolution: The 29er

In all reality the sport of Mountain Biking is still fairly young. After all the first bikes called mountain bikes were not out until around 20 years ago, and in the wide world of sports that makes this sport a bit of an upstart. However, this is actually a very good thing for mountain bikers. The reason is that because Mountain Biking is still such a young sport that people are still more than willing to experiment with different ideas in efforts to improve or change the sport. A great case in point is the emergence of the 29 inch wheel.

Up until recently almost everyone rode on the traditional 26 inch wheel. This makes a lot of sense when one takes a look at the geometry and physics behind bikes and riding. However people don’t use mountain bikes for just a ride down the road, mountain bikes are used by a large number of us for rough and tumble back country trials. This means that smaller wheels can slow a rider down and have more difficulty going over the large obstacles that are so often a part of the trails we enthusiasts ride.

Given the idea that we spend a lot of time on rough surfaces some people have brought around the idea of the 29 inch wheel. This process of changing out 26 inch wheels for 29 inch wheels is seriously gaining momentum and it is not beyond conception that not to long from now the 29 inch wheel actually becomes more commonly used than the traditional 26 incher. While it is unlikely that the 26 inch wheel will go away entirely, the 29er or big wheel as some call it, is quickly becoming a staple to trails across the world.

Many people who first see the big 29er often ask the question of why? The nice thing about the big wheel revolution is that why is pretty easy to understand. Bigger wheels mean two things, increased speed and an easier time rolling over obstacles. This makes the bigger wheel ideal for both cross country and endurance riding where these factors are a huge consideration for most riders. However one problem does occur when you change wheel sizes.

Because the traditional size of the mountain bike wheel was 26 inches, most companies have designed their frames and forks for wheels of that size. This means that the geometry and physics of the bike are optimal when mounted on this size wheel. This governs things such as controlling the bike during turns, impact on the frame, and other things. When you mount a new size wheel on the frame you essentially change the physical basis the bike is designed on. This means that you have the potential of lack of control and frame damage among other things. Also some concern needs to be given to the rider themselves. While riding a bike that has only added three inches to the wheels may not seem a big deal, that is a large three inches.

In the end the big wheel revolution is happening as we speak, there is not really a lot that can stop it, nor should there be. While there are some tweaks that will need to be made over time for the 29er to officially become the wheel of choice, those tweaks are few and soon frames and other special items designed for 29 inch riders will start flooding the market place as this revolution continues to happen.

Five Things About Mountain Biking I Learned the Hard Way

I began my mountain biking career over 15 years ago, and to use the old cliché I wish to god I knew the things then that I know now. Had I know some of the basic secrets to mountain biking I would of saved myself bodily injury, time spent healing and several doctors bills (I am sure that I could buy a new car with that money if I had it). Yet I did not know these secrets, and even if someone had tried to give them too me I am not sure I would have listened. However it is my hope that the following secrets will benefit you so you can maybe buy that new car when you are in your thirties.

1.  Just because all your friends jumped off the bridge does not mean you have too!So okay, we have all heard numerous times the above statement. The truth is that just because we have a tendency to confuse complete stupidity with bravery, does not mean we need to follow our friends every where they go. Sure being a bit reluctant to go down a hill or trail that seems a little bit above your skill level may get you some teasing, but when it is one of your friends who you are limping down the trail instead of you, who gets the final laugh?

When you are just starting as a mountain bike rider, remember that the point is to enjoy the sport, not to make your doctor more money. At first take easy trails, then as you grow more confident, expand your horizons by taking more difficult trails. Also realize that if you are gripping your handle bars in fear its hard to enjoy the scenery.

2.  Food and water are your friend not the enemySometimes we forget that the human machine needs fuel. Sometimes as we get psyched about the next trail, or just in a hurry to get out the door, we forget to top off our water bottles and to pack an apple or a carrot for the trail. While this is not a big deal for quick trails, not having food or water during a long trail can mean some very bad things such as dizziness, muscle cramping and even in some cases, a visit to the local hospital. This is easy to prevent by remembering to have a full water bottle (two if you are either going on a real long ride, or in a very arid area) and by bringing along high water food such as apples and carrots. Also apples and carrots are full of vitamins and easy for the body to digest.

3.  It may make you look stupid but stretching is always a good idea

One of the hardest things for me to make myself do before biking used to be stretching. I didn’t want to take the time to do something that I felt provided little to know benefit. However after a few pulled muscles I thought better of this and now stretching is something I do every time I go for a ride.

For those new to the idea of stretching the trick is not to overdue it and cause yourself injury. Start with simple toe touches and neck rolls. This will limber up your legs and shoulders which are the areas that will take most of the beating on the trail. Also you might want to add a couple sets of push ups and sit ups to warm up the torso muscles. Believe me you will feel a lot better during the ride if you do these simple exercises.

4.  A spare parts kit is worth the weight

I think virtually every biker on the planet has had a time when they wish they had brought along an extra inner tube or chain. Let’s face it, the trails we tend to ride do not care one little bit about our bikes and their conditions. In fact sometimes it seems a trail is out to get you from the start. Over my time as a mountain bike rider I have developed what I call the essential repair kit and I have used it more times than I care to count. Admitted it means taking a pack with me, but when it comes to either fixing a flat, or hiking my bike out, the pack seems a pretty small price to pay. Below is a list of items I always carry.

• Patch kit (you can pick one of these up at any bike store or even Wal-Mart)
• Extra tube (sometimes I get a flat no patch in the world is going to fix, but having and extra tube gets me off the trail and back home.)
• A set of wrenches and bolts. (this can actually take some time to put together, however I have been very glad whenever I have had to make an emergency repair to my seat, handle bars or other parts of my bike. I also recommend getting small plastic tackle box to hold all of it in.)
• An extra chain (most of my friends just bring extra links, but for me I find the chain is quicker and the cost difference is not that great, but at the very least bring a few extra lengths)
• Air pump (what good does fixing your flat do if you can’t put air back in your tire?)

I do have friends who have found ways to mount entire tires on their bikes, but the above should cover most situations that don’t involve major types of repairs, and will get you home.

5.  Biking and drinking is almost as dumb as drinking and driving
Maybe I have just had some bad luck with idiots, but I swear nothing is worse on the trail than having to deal with a drunken rider. Not only are they a risk to themselves, they are a risk to everyone else. I realize it may not seem to be a big deal to drink a couple of beers before a ride, but really you are doing something that requires your total attention. IN fact some trails you wind up on have very little room for error. So if you feel like a drink, do it at the end of the road not the start.

What you Need (A Beginners Guide to Mountain Biking)

One of the most common questions people have when they begin the active and awarding hobby of mountain biking is “what do I need?” While some of the answers are pretty obvious such as getting a bike, there are several things that many new mountain bikers overlook. In many cases the fact that some of these things were overlooked often leads to injury, or a complete loss of interest in the hobby. It is the intent of this article to provide those who are new to the hobby a good look at what they will need to begin this exciting sport.

• Bike weight: When you are first entering the hobby remember that lighter is not always better. Most people learned how to ride a bike on a medium or even heavy weight bike. This means that when you are first starting the hobby try to select a bike that feels good as you ride it. If you are having a hard time moving the bike, chances are it is too heavy. If you are having an easy time moving the bike but can’t seem to control it well, your bike is most likely too light. Remember you can always do things to lighten the bike as your skill increases.
• Safety equipment: Even the most experienced biker will have a fall on occasion. The trails and terrain that you will be riding your bike along can at times be very rough. The last thing you want is to have to end a ride early because of injury. It is strongly advisable that not only should you buy a good helmet, but to also invest in knee and elbow pads. While this may take some of the mystique away from the hobby, you will be thankful you have such equipment the first time you wipe out on a muddy turn and go flying off your bike. When selecting safety equipment you want to make sure it fits well and is comfortable to both walk and ride in. After all, if you take off your safety equipment because it’s not comfortable, it is not doing any good.
• Repair kit: Every biker has a story about having to stop their ride in order to help another biker fix a flat or a broken chain. Also many bikers have a story about getting a flat or breaking a chain and having to push their bike back up the trail for miles instead of spending the day riding. This is why having a basic repair kit handy is a great idea.
• Proper Attire: Dressing properly for both the weather and the environment you will be riding in is a very important thing to give consideration. If you are expecting rain on a day you plan to ride, wear water proof or resistant clothing. Also if you plan to be gone most of the day, bring some warm clothing with you just in case of a sudden temperature drop. While bringing extra clothes means extra weight, having them when you need them is always a good thing.
• Snack food and water: Biking burns a lot of calories (in fact that is one of its chief benefits), however riding too long without some kind refueling of the body could create several problems. When selecting food granola bars or trail mix are probably the best. These kinds of foods tend to be light weight and easy to store while providing a lot of energy. Pure water is always the best thing to take for drinking on the trail, however Gatorade or a similar sports drink can replace much of the bodies salt that is lost during exertion.

As you gain experience with biking you will find other things that you may need or want as your ride. Some riders always bring a flashlight with them, while other riders try to remain as light as possible. The main thing is to consider safety and comfort as you begin to ride. As you become a veteran of the beautiful trials offered in the world, you will start to develop your own list that has been earned through experience. So good luck and may you find many trails as you begin this wonderful hobby.