Darn Those Socks: Switching from Hanes to the Smartwool Ultra Light

A sock by any other name is well, still a sock.  Or so I thought, until I slipped my foot into the lightly cushioned sole of the Smartwool ultra light woman’s cycling sock. As I eased my battered foot into this sock I could see the aura of light haloing around my feet, clearly indicating that this was “the sock.”

Socks, to me, have always meant the Sam’s pack of Hanes. You loose them in the wash, they stretch out, get holey, and of course, for those of us mountain bikers…stained with mud. Finding a sock that doesn’t slip down into your riding shoe while climbing is usually a tough task, in addition to finding a riding sock that is warm, yet not too thick.  Hence the staple pack of Hanes from Sam’s club.

The Smartwool ultra light riding sock fit all my needs, from riding to yoga to weight lifting and running. Immediately after putting them on, my feet were engulfed in the sultry deliciousness of their feel. Snugly securing themselves around my foot, they harbored each toe with comfort and support. They showed off my ankles and bulging calf muscles, while at the same time never slipping below the shoe line.

I still have my first pair of Smartwools that I bought 10 years ago in Steamboat, Colorado. They have since manufactured themselves a hole from years of wear, but yet remain a staple of my winter wardrobe. Usually I dedicate my biking apparel budget to high quality chamois and shoes, but the Smartwool ultra light has proved itself to be more than just a sock and is worth buying multiple pairs.

V.I.O. POV.1 - Helmet Cameras for a Better Point of View

As we blaze trails across desert sands and through pristine forests, today us Mountain Biker folk seek ways to share our riding experiences with others. New technology has made camera technology feasible and affordable for many MTBer’s who seek a way to record the experience. Now V.I.O. takes the next step forward with the POV 1. The POV 1 offers DVD-quality recording (720 x 480 at 30 fps) with a wide angle lens which gives a better picture of the trail and more realistic video. The entire system is waterproof, dustproof and shock resistant to stand up to trail and rider abuse. The camera mount isolates shocks to make for a smoother video and included is a wireless control for easy recording. Editing software (MAC and PC compatible) is also part of the package and it is designed in such a way that even the technically challenged can easily figure it out.

There are a variety of resolutions, frame rates, and modes you can record in, depending on the desired result. The recording module has a built-in LCD screen for on-the-spot editing which allows you to delete the fluff and save your SD card space for the video you want to keep. At six hundred and eighty bucks you get what you pay for. You might have to push back that next bike purchase, but the POV 1 system has all of the durability, features and capabilities that even the most avid mountain bikers could dream of.

Below are some videos of the V.I.O. in action.

Shoot Tag Edit Share - VIO POV Bike Tutorial from THE VIO VOICE on Vimeo.

Mountain Bike POV Trails and Jumps from THE VIO VOICE on Vimeo.

BIKE Magazine Point-of-View Mountain Biking - San Juan from THE VIO VOICE on Vimeo.

The King Secures His Throne With Several New Innovations

Chris King has long been known for their innovative design and unparalleled commitment to quality. Now they have raised the bar with a wide variety of new innovations and changes to their well-known line up. The Chris King headset is perhaps the most widely known of any of their products, but this year they have decided to shy away from the bold graphics that they are recognized for, and opt for something a little more subtle. The new design is called Sotto Voce; in Italian this literally translates to “under voice”. What it means is a very light graphic that creates a smoother feel to the look of the headset. However if you are a lover of the classic bold Chris King logo, do not despair, black will still be offered in the original white lettering or the new Sotto Voce design. Yet with these and other changes the unmatched 10 year warranty on their headsets remains.

Another new change to the look of their headsets, hubs and bottom brackets, is the introduction of a new color…brown. That is on top of their large color line-up already, which maxes out at 10, but depends on which component you are looking at. But I just gave the next point away; the new Chris King bottom bracket. It is designed to work with Shimano-compatible external bottom brackets. Besides offering 24 ball bearings per side and a user serviceable design, it comes with a 5 year warranty and a lot of pretty colors.

The hubs are also seeing a new addition this year, thru-axles. For front hubs Chris King now offers 15mm thru axle hubs with ISO 20mm hub shells or and standard ISO hub shells. And of course they have rear thru axle hubs. They come in 135 x 10mm and 135 x 12mm ISO flavors. All of the Chris King hubs offer a 5 year warranty, a variety of color options (of course), user-serviceable bearings, 72 engagement points compared to the normal 24 (on rear hubs), and the ability to adjust hub bearing preload with the wheel still on the bike!

King has expanded their stainless steel cog line to include 21, 22 and 23 teeth versions for more options for single speeders and fixies.

Chris King has long been shaping the leading edge of the industry, and with the coming year’s new line-up, I think it is safe to say they are holding that position. In a world where fine print is everywhere and even your coffee cup has to have a warning label on it, there is a company that is building a product the right way, and backing what they do with the best warranty around. This commitment to the industry is not only evident in their product but in their involvement with organizations like Wheels for Life, their contributions to the Pretty and Strong foundation for combating breast cancer, and commuter incentive programs for their employees, that generously rewards those who make a positive impact on our environment. The King secures his throne!

AY-UP Light System Review: The Light System You Have Always Wanted – No Joke!

There is a lot to complain about these days: Work, the economy, gas prices, elections… One of my biggest complaints in the bike world is light systems that don’t deliver. Through my time in retail I spent many hours checking out the latest and greatest, yet each one was lacking in one department or another. It seemed like most manufacturers were just out of tune with the market. All of a sudden I get a box delivered to my doorstep, a ring of light glowing around it. I open it up and I find Ay-up. Ay-Up sells several different lighting systems and I received the MTB version. It includes two three hour batteries, one six hour battery, a dual battery charger, a 12v DC adapter for the car, a wide beam light for the handlebars, a narrow beam light for helmet mount, and several different pouches straps and zip ties. After unpacking everything I decide do some research; check out the company and see their claims.

One of my biggest complaints with light systems is awkward batteries with miserably slow charging times and a lack of a smart charging system (you have to unplug the battery when it is fully charged otherwise it can be damaged). Ay-Up claimed to solve it all, but not one to be satisfied with manufacturer claims, I wanted to see for myself. The charger was indeed a smart charger and allowed you to charge two batteries at the same time. Later I discovered they had another version which allowed up to six batteries to be charged at once, and you can mix batteries of different charge levels and hour ratings with no problems. In just a few of hours I had all three batteries charged and ready to go. A lot of the other light systems on the market can take six, seven, even eight hours or more to completely charge! Combine that fact with the lack of a smart charging system and you have some battery headaches on your hands. But the Ay-Up batteries also feature built-in short circuit protection, do not suffer the dreaded memory effect (so you can recharge them without fully discharging them), are water proof to 1 meter, and can withstand a drop 5 meters to a concrete floor! That’s pretty hard to beat. I was already very impressed! The other thing that immediately struck me is the battery size: They were small and light. The 3 hour versions weighed in at just 70 grams (.15 lbs.) and were 1 3/4 inches, by 3 inches, by 1 inch in size; the 6 hour weighed 130 grams (.29 lbs.) and measured 3 inches, by 4 1/2 inches, by 1 1/2 inches. Each one has an integrated switch and a little pouch to make mounting easy.

Then I looked at the lights: The stylish anodized housings were available in 12 different colors, and the MTB kit included one wide beam and one narrow beam light. I examined them carefully and though at first glance I questioned their durability, some close examination and accidentally slamming my helmet mounted set into the wall proved they were darn near bullet-proof. Not to mention Ay-Up says; “You break it… we want it back. A new set will be delivered to your door as soon as physically possible.” I haven’t heard of any bike light manufacturer that stands behind their product to that extent… amazing! That being settled I installed the lights, plugged in the batteries and hit the trail. As I blazed down the trail I started to wonder why they had dual beams if they both pointed to the same spot, then an epiphany. I rotated one of the beams slightly above the other and viola, a longer beam. What a concept, a longer beam to see more of the trail in front of you… no need for a brighter light that sucks down you battery juice twice as fast just to see more of the trail.

A lot of people look for the system with the brightest and widest possible beam, but because the Ay-Up system uses a helmet and handlebar mount light together, you can see the area on the trail immediately around you, as well as details in the terrain, and use your helmet mount to scan further up the trail. Ay-Up does not offer the brightest or the widest beam on the market, but you don’t need either with the combo of head and handlebar light. That is not to say the system lacks power; the handlebar light or headlamp alone are enough to easily find your way on the trail. And because of the compact super-light design, you can barely tell the weight difference with a battery pack and light on top of your head.

Some other things to note, besides the if you break it they replace it warranty, is a 1-year full replacement guarantee for any failures during normal use. Ay-Up has a commitment to spreading innovation, so they soon plan to offer a discount upgrade program so current Ay-Up users can get the latest gear without paying the full price. Who else does that?

Staying on the subject of complaints this article was very hard to write. Every time I finished a paragraph I remembered another great bit of info from Ay-Up. There is so much thought and effort not only in the design of the system, but in the warranties and support. Below I put together a quick feature list with some of the main points:

Huge Variety of Mounting Options
Helmet Light and Handlebar Light for Most Versatile Platform Available
Dual beam adjustable lights
Stylish Look

Truvativ HammerSchmidt: Shifting Into the Future

The concept has been out for years, internal shifting. We have seen it in internal hubs and even on Honda’s prototype downhill bikes. Now Truvativ has stepped into the game and brought internal gearing technology to the mountain bike masses. The Truvativ HammerSchmidt replaces the normal front derailleur with a completely internal drive system.

There are two versions to be available, one for all mountain and one for freeride. Truvativ discovered that the majority of riders in these categories used only two chainrings, so the system offers two selectable gears. It also provides chain retention to eliminate the need for chain guides, and a shifter, which is a near clone of SRAM’s X.0 shifters. That makes one think about the possibility of using it for single speeds/dual speeds.

One of the benefits to the HammerSchmidt is seamless shifting, even while shifting backwards or under load. The compact design also increases the ground clearance substantially, as well as eliminates the potential for bent and broken teeth on chain rings without a bash guard. Furthermore a constant chain line means you can use your full rear gear range with either of your front “chainrings.” No more worrying about cross chaining with the Hammer! For compatibility the HammerSchmidt offers a variety of bottom bracket sizes and crank lengths, but it does require the frame to have ISCG tabs. Adaptors won’t work.

It is a breakthrough in design, and at an expected $700-$800 it seems the adage you get what you pay for holds true. But keep in mind this is the whole package; cranks, bottom bracket, and shifter. Plus you can kiss that wimpy old front derailleur goodbye. One negative to the HammerSchmidt is weight. Compared to similar crank and BB combos the HammerSchmidt runs anywhere from 100-500 grams heavier. Nevertheless an extra pound may be a worthwhile sacrifice for all of the benefits the Hammer offers. In the near future you can bet on seeing this technology become lighter, cheaper, and much more prominent in the MTB world. Watch out cuz’ the Truvativ HammerSchmidt is just the beginning!

Shimano Yumeya: Discover Kabuki Beauty. Be Enlightened. 夢のワークショップ

夢のワークショップ

Journey to a sacred land where Kabuki Beauty rules. It is a place of forgotten relics and the home of Shimano Yumeya. Yumeya is Japanese for “dream workshop.” It is the thoughts and dreams of cyclists; the desire for lighter, more exclusive products. For the elite who are not satisfied with XTR, Yumeya is the final touch, the ultimate in performance. It is comprised of several aftermarket upgrade parts, finished in gold and white for flash factor. It also offers slight weight savings and a couple other benefits.

Rumors have existed for a while now, yet there has still been much mystery surrounding Yumeya. Yumeya was first introduced into Shimano’s fishing world, to add performance and extra flash to their high-end reels. Recently it has surfaced at Eurobike and Interbike and despite mixed thoughts, it looks freakin’ cool.

Yumeya will grant you wings of the dragon with a total weight savings of 71.2 grams. Some of the parts offer no weight savings, just extra wow factor; but Yumeya has a few other advantages over the standard XTR. The Titanium bolt upgrade features molybdenum coating to prevent seizing which is never a bad thing. The new Yumeya chain boasts more durability and resistance to chain stretch, as well as better oil retention. Lastly Kabuki Beauty brings purity to hydraulic brake hoses giving the world a 35% increase in rigidity. Altogether it is nothing very substantial as far as performance goes, but it is a cool upgrade to brag to your buddies about. Granted Yumeya is certain to have a steep price tag. It is not for the general masses, but the elite who seek to spread Kabuki Beauty to the world.

The total Yumeya parts line-up is as follows:

• Carbon Rear Derailleur Plate
• Disk Brake Lever Lid
• Shift Lever Bracket Band
• Greased Outer Casing (Cable Housing)
• Titanium Bolts
• HG Chain
• Outer Adjust Plate for Shifters (Barrel Adjusters)
• Rear Derailleur Jockey Pulleys (They’re White!!)
• Fixing Bolt for Left Crank Arm
• Cassette Sprockets
• Brake Hose

Take a journey into the land of Kabuki Beauty and discover Yumeya for yourself: Be enlightened. Just remember patience is a virtue in the quest for Yumeya.

平和

Fox Clothing - What Are You Wearing?

I remember when I first started riding, I’d throw on a T-shirt, a pair of basketball shorts and some running shoes and take off down the trail. Things are quite a bit different now; what once was a struggle down the easy trail has turned into all day epic adventures. I’ve bought new bikes, new gear, and new clothing to match my growing skills. If you find yourself moving into the next level, taking on that climb you used to think was impossible, or blazing through bone breaking descents, maybe it’s time for a clothing upgrade. Well I’ve got the perfect prescription for that diagnosis… FOX!

Almost everybody knows Fox racing from the dirt bike world, but many do not know what they offer for mountain bikers. Fox has taken their vast knowledge and finely tuned technology and applied it to us. I’m not here to talk about all of the details because that would be a very long article. Their product selection is huge! I’ll spell out the main points for you.

Fox gloves are some of the best mountain bike gloves on the planet! They offer full-finger, half-finger and modified finger styles (with a full thumb) depending on your preference. The product line ranges from the ultimate in simplicity, the $20 Fox Incline with a simple breathable mesh back and reinforced palm, to the $35 Sidewinder with multiple reinforcements all around, special ventilation inserts, and the ultimate in comfort. Their gloves are tough and built to take spills. Reinforcements protect your hands from blisters while your riding and serve as armor when you crash. If you aren’t riding with a pair of Fox gloves yet, buy yourself a pair already!

The Cotton T-shirt is great for casual rides, but if you are getting serious treat yourself to something better. Fox jerseys range from racing style with intense graphics and wide pored fabric, for unparalleled breatheability, to simple designs and color schemes for the more down to Earth rider. They come in long sleeve, no sleeve and short sleeve. If you have never worn a biking jersey the benefit is huge. With Fox each model is different, but they all offer moisture wicking to get the sweat off of you and keep you cool. Certain models have mesh sides and arm pits for improved breatheability. With models starting at 30 bucks you won’t have to save up to buy one.

A lot of mountain bikers still have not discovered the joys of padded shorts. Usually when you think of padded shorts the first thing that pops into your head is diapers and roadies with spandex (no offense to the roadies out there). Padded shorts can dramatically change your mountain biking experience. If you find yourself with a hurtin’ derrière after a ride, it’s time to think about picking up a good pair of padded shorts. Surprise! Fox has you covered there too. They offer a wide range of shorts with different levels of padding, breatheability and design. Shorts like the $120 Attacks have a finely contoured chamois (pad), a bullet proof exterior, plenty of cargo space, and strategically placed mesh vents for the ultimate breatheability. If you don’t feel like spending that much, 50 greenbacks will get you a pair of Fox base shorts which offer all of the same features of the high-end shorts, just not as finely tuned.

Fox also sells outwear, socks, helmets, hydration packs, guards, seat bags, eyewear, shoes, and of course their legendary shocks and forks. They also have specific gear lines for Women, BMX and Motocross (could of guessed that one). Get to your local bike shop or favorite web retailer and pick up some new Fox gear today. You won’t be disappointed!

P.S. The Fox store often has amazing deals on older models and limited sizes.

Mountain Biking Equipment

A bike – any bike will do. Back in the mid 80’s I introduced my best friend, Greg Dres, to a schoolmate from college, John Duerst, who was just starting to mountain bike on his pink Mantis. Greg went to a race with him and decided he wanted to race mountain bikes as well. He went home, put a straight bar on his mom’s Schwinn beach cruiser, and started riding the hills around his home. A month or so later, he took the beach cruiser to a race and came in 7th overall. That’s where John Parker saw him race, and gave him a Yeti single speed to ride. In 1985, Greg won the NORBA Ironman trophy. Could he have won on the beach cruiser? Not likely, but he certainly could have finished.

Honestly, there are a whole lot of mountain bikes out there to choose from. Steel frames, aluminum frames, carbon fiber frames, titanium frames, beryllium frames (in relative order of price…) Each type of frame has good and bad things about them, each will give a slightly different feel to the ride. For a first time rider, steel is fine. Aluminum can be lighter, doesn’t rust, and is pricier, but a beginner will probably appreciate that little bit of extra ‘flex’ that a steel frame provides. You can find a bike almost anywhere for under $200, but if you want a good bike that will last, go to a bike shop. The shop will also make sure the bike fits you properly and answer any questions you might have. Top of the line bikes are easily over $7000. A good rule of thumb is to plan to spend at least $500. Spending more money will get you better quality components, lighter weight, and more features. Higher quality components will last longer, weigh less, work better when caked with mud, and stay ‘in tune’ longer between adjustments. Another good plan is to find a bike with a high quality frame and cheap components. As the components break/wear out, you can replace them with better components.

A helmet – this is to protect your noggin. If you think you don’t need a helmet, there probably isn’t anything in there worth protecting. Helmets are not made to prevent injury when you t-bone a tree at 40 MPH, but it might help. A helmet is made to protect your head/brain from injury sustained during the fall from 5-6 feet high where your head is when you ride, to the ground. Even such a minor fall can cause brain damage, blindness, paralysis, or even death. Dirt might be soft, especially when wet, but rocks and trees are not. If you need convincing, go to your local county hospital, and volunteer to ‘visit’ people with head injuries. After wiping drool for a few hours, you’ll put a helmet on.

Some shorts – Unless you’re at the nudist colony, shorts would be appropriate. Long pants are even appropriate for rides in terrain where raspberry bushes may be nipping at your calves. If you want to go shirtless, that’s your business, but anything you put between your body and the ground, rocks, trees, et al. will be appreciated following contact.

Some shoes – Bike specific shoes typically have stiff soles so all of your energy goes into pushing the pedal, and none into flexing your shoe. Any good, supportive shoe will do, but since you’re going to be ‘mountain biking’ something that works well when you’re off the bike as well is recommended. For recreational riding, a hiking boot or trail runner works fine. When you get serious, mountain biking shoes will have that stiff sole, laces or multiple straps to get a better fit, some means of securing the laces so they don’t end up in the drive train, and a lugged sole to give you traction in rough terrain and mud. Many shoes also come with the ability to add cleats. Like the cleats on a Soccer shoe, these come in multiple lengths and screw in. You’ll appreciate them the first time you get fantastic traction on a slippery uphill.

Gloves – While not absolutely necessary either, gloves can make your ride more enjoyable. In cold weather, full fingered gloves keep your hands warm. In warm weather, ventilated or fingerless gloves keep your hands cool. Most gloves are reinforced in the places where there is likely to be more wear such as the palms for hanging on, and thumb/fingers for shifting and braking. Most will also have a terry cloth back or at least the back of the thumb for mopping mud/sweat/tears from your brow. My favorite pair was made of neoprene, with a synthetic leather palm and terry thumb back. They were so warm I used to wear them X-C skiing as well. Gloves are also handy when you fall off the bike, and your palms end up in contact with the dirt, rocks, roadway, sidewalk, raspberry bushes, and any number of other things that will mess up your hands. Gloves also protect the backs of your hands from the stinging thwack! of branches as you ride by.

A jersey – You can always ride shirtless on a nice warm day, and it will prevent you from getting the dreaded farmer tan, but a nice jersey is a welcome piece of equipment. A cotton T-shirt will soak up sweat and remain damp on your skin. This is OK for cooling if you live in one of those places where the drier air evaporates the sweat from your shirt, but in the Midwest, it is so hot and humid in the summer that the water vapor condenses on your cool body and makes you wetter. Jerseys are made intentionally to wick sweat away from your body, prevent chafing, and provide a more comfortable ride. They also have built in temperature adjustment (a zipper) and lots of storage for quickly needed items in the pockets on the back. Long sleeve jerseys reduce the need for a jacket on a cooler day. A jersey also provides some protection from the flora on the sides of the trail.

Cycling shorts – although most racers will wear road-weenie spandex shorts, mountain biking gave birth to the baggy bicycle short. Cycling shorts have a liner that is intended to reduce chafing between the bicycle seat and the part of you that contacts it. Typically called a chamois (since it was originally made from the skin of a goat-like creature called a Chamois) it can now be made of many different natural or synthetic materials. Like the jersey, cycling specific shorts are also designed to wick sweat and increase comfort.

(Sun) glasses – Even cheap sunglasses are better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, which is a real possibility when riding off-road. If you’ve got the money for high dollar sunglasses, more power to you, but if you ride a lot, you’ll find that you can go through a lot of sunglasses in a short period of time. Mud, dirt, and sand aren’t the easiest things to wipe off without scratching the lenses, and there’s always the possibility of losing them, stepping on them, or forgetting to take them out of your filthy jersey pocket before you throw it in the washer. There are a lot of reasonably priced glasses, specifically made for mountain biking that will not interfere with your helmet. Changeable lenses are also a nice feature, so you have dark lenses for direct sun, yellow lenses for overcast situations where you need more contrast and clear lenses for riding at night. Glass lenses can break and cut your eyeball out, so make sure and get a good quality, impact resistant, plastic lenses.

Toe clips/clipless pedals – Nothing is more entertaining that watching someone ride with toe clips or clipless pedals the first time. Toe clips are a metal ‘cage’ that goes from the front of the pedal, around the front of the toe, and back onto the top of the foot. There is a leather or nylon strap that goes from the top of the cage, down through the pedal. You stick your foot in the cage, and tighten the strap. This locks the front of your foot to the pedal and prevents your foot from slipping forward. To release, you have to reach down and push the buckle to loosen, and then pull your foot out backwards. Clipless pedals have a cleat in the bottom of your cycling shoe that snaps into the top of the pedal. In order to release, you twist your heel to the side. Having your foot locked to the pedal has many advantages. Your foot never slips around while pedaling, or slips off when landing jumps or going over rough terrain. In addition to pushing down on the pedal, you can also pull up, using a different set of muscles to propel the bike to get additional power and delay fatigue. You can also use your feet to hop the bike over obstacles and perform precise maneuvers like reversing direction on a tight switchback. The entertaining part comes with inexperience getting out of the pedals. This usually happens at low speed, on some type of difficult terrain like mud or sand. The question goes through your mind a hundred times in a split second “should I clip out, or keep pedaling and ride through it?” The end result is usually a slow fall to the side, with both feet still clipped in. If you’re riding in dangerous terrain, don’t decide. Clip out. There are many different types of clipless pedals. Mud buildup seems to be the biggest enemy of many of them. Mud buildup doesn’t necessarily prevent you from clipping in, but usually makes clipping out more difficult. When deciding on a brand, an old riding buddy helped me make the choice. His words: “Look at what the pros are using. They can afford any pedal they want, and they choose to buy that brand.”

Suspension – While suspension isn’t necessary either, it sure makes the ride a lot more comfortable. Pavement is relatively smooth, but off road, your hands and wrists can take a severe beating in short order. Most mountain bikes these days will have at least a front suspension fork (called a ‘hardtail’.) Travel can vary depending on the intended use. For general cross country riding, travel in the 3”(~80mm) area is adequate and sufficient. Downhill bikes that will be taking big hits at higher speeds can have over 7”(~200mm) of travel, and will have suspension in the rear as well as the front. With more travel comes more weight. You seldom see a downhiller riding up the hill. The bike is heavy, and much easier to take up on the back of a chairlift. Suspension technology has come a long way, and you can now get a full suspension bike that weighs less than the hardtails of 10 years ago. Most people start out on a hardtail. You can get a better quality frame and/or components without having the cost of a rear suspension.

Hydration Pack – Commonly known as a Camelbak® just as all facial tissue is known as Kleenex®, hydration packs are made by many manufacturers. You’re going to need water when you ride, because you’re going to get thirsty. Instead of having to reach down, pull the mud covered bottle out of it’s cage, pop the muddy valve open with your teeth and throw your head back to drink while riding with one hand, why not just slip the end of the hydration hose in your mouth and drink cool, clean water from the insulated reservoir on your back, with both hands on the bars and your eyes on the trail? Back when I was racing, I found I really wasn’t drinking much with a water bottle. There’s no problem getting a drink when you’re stopped, but trying to drink on the move requires a lot of effort. If you drop the bottle in a race, it’s not likely you’re going to stop to pick it up. When I got a hydration pack, everything changed. I could drink water any time I needed to, without stopping, and there was no danger of dropping the bottle. You can also store a lot of things in the pack like rain gear, extra clothes, food for longer rides, a cell phone, and anything else you might need. The bladder on your back can also protect your spine in a crash, though hydration packs also come in the fanny-pack style. It’s also a good place to keep your tools…

Tools – No one wants to get stranded in the middle of the woods on a broken bike and have to walk back. By carrying a few tools with you, you can increase your chances of making it back on the bike substantially. The most common problem is flat tires. The new tubeless tires have advantages, but they are harder to repair when they go flat. You can put a tube in a tubeless tire, so carry one with you even if you have tubeless tires. Even off-road motorcycles still have tires with tubes. If you’re really concerned about saving the weight of a tube, you can buy inner tubes of lighter materials such as latex, but unless you’re racing, I’d avoid tubeless tires. So, first off, you’ll need tools to change or patch a tire. Carry a patch kit and/or a spare tube. You’ll also need a pump. If you can change the tire using only your hands, this is the best way. If you need them, you can use tire irons, but this increases the chances of pinching the inner tube when replacing the tire on the rim. If you don’t have quick release hubs on your wheels, you’ll need the proper tool for that as well. Tools to adjust the derailleurs, brakes, seat, and handlebars/stem are also a good idea. You can usually find a ‘multi-tool’ that includes everything you need, even a chain breaker and bottle opener for the finer post ride glass bottled beverages without a twist-top. For often used tools, you might want to carry real tools as well. They are usually better quality, and provide more leverage. I typically have a very small under-seat pack on each of my bikes. It contains a multi-tool, a whistle, patches, and a cartridge type inflator. The cartridge inflator takes the place of a pump. It is like the CO2 cartridges use to power a pellet gun. After you change the tire, you screw it onto the valve stem, release the CO2, and it contains enough gas to fill one MTB tire enough to ride on. For what to do with the rest of the tools and how to fix other problems on your bike, there are many good books, or classes at your local bike shop or outdoor outfitter.

Other equipment - There are numerous other pieces of equipment you can add such as a GPS (Global Positioning system) Panniers, a rear rack, etc, etc. But basically, to ride and be safe, you can get by with a bike, shoes, shorts, and a helmet.

Neophyte Corner: Lighting your Way

If you are like me, you started your biking journey in the spring, enjoying long days and bright clear evenings. During the summer, generally bicyclists can rely on reflectors to provide safety on the roads because the whole environment is bright and clear most of the time. But as we enter into Autumn, the days are getting shorter and shorter, overcast or rainy days are becoming more common, and soon we’ll be setting the clocks back another hour bringing on sunset even earlier in the day. Now is the time to be thinking about procuring lights for your bike.

Rear Lights

Every rider should start off with a rear light. When riding your bike, you are always aware of what is in front of you and it is possible to react to the various hazards coming at you. But, even with a rear view mirror, it is not possible to have full awareness of what is behind you. A good rear light will alert other riders and automobile drivers of your position, and allow them to avoid dangerous situations.

Rear lights come in several flavors, but should always be RED because this is a signal to traffic that they are seeing the rear of a vehicle instead of the front. (Some states have laws that all rear-facing lights must be red.) You should be aware that some of the newer rear lights have a white coloring when off, but are actually red when lit. Look for a light that is:

1. Bright – easy to see from far off
2. Has both flashing and steady modes – flashing increases visibility during sunrise and sunset, steady modes are less distracting to other riders after dark
3. Has a long battery life – your rear light will be out-of-sight and thus out-of-mind more often than any other tool in your biking kit, so you want be changing out batteries as seldom as possible.

In general, the best way to fulfill these needs are with an LED (light emitting diode) based rear light with multiple LEDs providing a breadth of coverage. LEDs are bright and use very little power, and are usually mounted on tiny circuit boards which can handle multiple flashing modes.

These are my two favorites:

1. Planet Bike Blinky “5″: Small, bright, and can act as a reflector
2. Blackburn Mars 3.0: Larger but still bright and good side visibility as an added bonus.

Front Lights

While rear lights are all about being seen, Front Lights can either be about being seen or being able to see. If you typically ride on well-lit streets, then your focus should be to ensure other riders/drivers can see you. If you typically ride on poorly-lit streets or on biking paths, then it is critical you focus on a light that lets you see the dangers in front of you.

Being Seen

If your focus is on being seen, then you want similar characteristics to your rear light: bright, flashing and steady modes, and long battery life. But a front light is not the same as a back light. Your back light exists to throw a wide beam that alerts other people on the road to your current position whether they are right behind you or a ways off. A front light is seen by drivers/riders who are coming towards you while you are both in motion and therefore have less time to react. So a front light should be able to throw its light a distance down the street.

If your focus is on being seen, look for an LED-based white light with a flashlight-style shape and design. (Again, some states require all front-facing lights on vehicles are white.) These lights generally can be removed from the bike as well, and used as a flashlight for when you are moving from the bike into a building. It also allows a quick swap out of batteries if yours happen to become low mid-ride.

Here are two of my favorites:

1. Planet Bike Beamer 3 LED: Small, bright, and light
2. Schwinn Crank Light: Bright and crank handle means never having to change batteries.

Being Able to See

If your focus is on being able to see, then it is time to start thinking in terms of wattage for your light. Wattage is the power that the light puts out, and the higher the wattage, the more brightness, distance, and visibility you get. For this class of front light, you want at least 1 watt of power, but you can get lights up to 10, 13, or even 20 watts of power, which rival a car’s headlights for brilliance. The more watts you want, the more expensive your light will be.

Most lights in this class can be mounted to your handlebars or be worn as a head-mounted light on your helmet. This keeps the beam pointed where you are looking, and allows you to adjust the visibility to whatever portion of the road requires your attention at a particular moment.

However, there is also a danger here. Once you are up to a watt or more of power, your light is capable of briefly blinding other people on the road. It is critical that you are mindful of how your light is mounted and where you point it. It is not much help to make sure you can see the oncoming car, if the driver can’t see anything and swerves into you.

Here are two light of this class that I am a fan of:

1. Planet Bike 3044 Blaze: Small, bright, and uses the same mount as my “being seen” light
2. Nite Hawk Phoenix SE 10w: 10 watts, rechargeable battery, and integrates well into the bike frame

Other Lighting Options

Of course, a front or rear light are only some of the tools available to you for night riding. You may also want to be aware of these options:

1. Wheel generators: These generators, which you may remember from childhood, allow you to power your front light by the energy in your tires. In general, these systems are not very useful or reliable when compared to a battery-based system. Not recommended.
2. Wheel lights: Some of the more fashionable among us may see wheel-mouned lights that flash along with the turning of the wheels to give a Back-To-The-Future style effect. These lights are generally considered to be a bad idea as they are distracting to others on the road and do not enhance visibility, except from the side. Some states also have laws about what color lights are allowed on the side of road vehicles, and most of the flashier wheel lights are in violation. Not recommended.
3. Reflective vests/jackets/wristbands: If you are riding at night, it is critical to remember that you are probably able to see a lot more of the road as a biker going 20 MPH then a car driver going 45 MPH. Lights help, but the more of your body that others can see, the better. If you plan to ride at night, invest in a reflective vest and/or jacket. It will give better visibility to your body’s outline, and allow drivers to better anticipate your next move. You may also want to check out reflective gloves which can light up your hand for turn signals. Highly recommended.
4. Reflectors: If you bought a bike from a reputable bike shop, odds are you already have a front and rear reflector on your bike, as well as reflectors on your pedals. Do not remove your reflectors, even if you have picked up both a front and read light. Remember that these are your last line of defense when your batteries run out, or you are caught out without your battery-powered lights. Required.

Conclusion

Darkness need not stop you from using your bicycle for transport or for fun. But if you do not respect the night, and realize your own limitations and those of other riders/drivers, then you are putting yourself in danger. The use of these few bike accessories can make the difference between risking injury or worse, and enjoying a safe ride.

Interbike 2008 Expo: Xtreme Sports ID Bracelet

Something really cool from the Interbike 2008 Expo…it might be a little Orwellian for some…we think it is brilliant!

The Xtreme Sports ID bracelet. It is similar to the Road ID in a plastic bracelet with online information (medical, emergency contact, address). The $8 purchase price buys you a year of coverage ($5 to renew and your account can accommodate multiple bands). The bracelet has your unique ID number and phone number on band for First Responders in case of an emergency.

Although we do not advise riding alone, when you absolutely must ride alone do yourself a favor and ride with one of these bracelets.  When someone else finds you unconscious and looking like the guy below they can call for help and all your medical information will be on file.

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