Passing on Hills

I have a great ride twice a week, usually weekends, at Cherry Creek State Park in South Denver. There is a loop that goes around the outside of the park. You can ride on the inside of the loop, but when you get to the backside, there is a reservoir earthen wall that forces you to ride around on the outside of it. Here’s a map of the ride.

It is about a 15-mile loop, more or less, and I usually manage to make it around the loop in 75 minutes. There are about 2 miles of trail and about 13 miles of pavement or cement sidewalk. The ride has 2 big hills: The first is about an 8% grade for about a mile and the second is about a 6% grade dropping to a 4% grade for about 2.5 miles. This second hill, averaging 10 MPH, takes about 15 minutes for me to get up it on my 35 pound mountain bike.

This second hill is really the focus of this week’s story. If you look back at the Map, listed above, this hill is on the outside of the earthen dam, along route 225. It starts at the North, and about the halfway point, going to the West, you hit the nadir and then you have your long uphill climb. It’s a great hill for interval training and I’ve seen some real rock stars take that hill at 20 mph all the way to the western part of the earthen dam. They were on road bikes; mountain biker stars can take that hill at around 14-15 mph.

This past Saturday, as I hit the nadir, I steeled myself for the long ride up. I was passed at the start by a couple on new mountain bikes. The woman, a young blond, in her early twenties, weighing 120 pounds, with a helmet threaded blond pony tail, waving in the wind, passed me with about 6 inches to spare. It always amazes me that people would pass that close to me with a 6 foot wide concrete walkway to ride on and never say a thing: The male, a little bit older, did say: “on your left” and then gave me about a foot clear passage. That was appreciated.

Within the first half mile, this couple had a 50-yard lead on me. I was thinking there was no way I was going to catch them as we moved up the hill. They were too aggressive, too strong, and they were half my age. Then I noticed a few things: 1. They were peddling at a high gear. Their feet were moving at roughly half the RPM’s than I usually cycle at. 2. They were wearing sneakers, not bike shoes. 3. Their bike’s seats were lower than they should have been; resulting in a lunging pedaling motion.

I remembered the story of the Tortoise and the Hare and thought to myself, that if I stayed in form, I could catch them by the top of the hill. I knew a few things about climbing: 1. Keeping your RPM’s up (around 60) gives you a smoother ride and doesn’t burn out your muscles; adjust gearing to the slope of the hill. 2. Wearing bike shoes, which are hard soled, is a more direct transfer of energy to the pedals, verses sneakers that lose energy when they flex on every down pedal. Proper seat height, custom fitted for your height and bike results in a much more efficient pedaling motion. Bike shoes can give you a direct energy efficiency estimated at 3-5%.

Over the next mile, it was all I could do to stay close to the jackrabbitting couple. I stayed at 60 RPM’s and I resisted the urge to just go all out. On the second mile, I started to creep closer and closer. I saw the blond glance back at me and she redoubled her efforts; but she was laboring, still in a high gear and she finally stood up to get her leverage working for her.

At the end of the second mile, I was still feeling strong and I passed the gentleman and had the blond in my sights. I stayed in form; kept adjusting my gearing for the magical 60 RPM, in a comfortable cadence. With two hundred yards to go, I quite easily passed her and politely said: “On your left” and blew past her. I could hear her grunting and then, when I got to the light at the top of the hill, glanced back and she was stopped; bent over, exhausted.

My buddy Jeff, an avid mountain biker, who races in Winterpark, told me that you win races on the hills, where you break their spirit. There is a reason Lance Armstrong won 7 tours in a row; he won them in the mountains.

See you on the trails.

Trip Hints for the Weekend Warrior

Every weekend warrior loves the chance to plan a trip to a unique location and break out of their riding routine. Last weekend, I had the chance to take a group of eight guys out of Atlanta up to Currahee Mountain to bike the Frady Branch trail system for 20+ miles of riding, deep in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Leading a mountain biking outing is a ton of fun, but also entails a lot of responsibility. Whether you’re meeting a few friends at a new hot spot or taking a big group to a destination, there are some helpful guidelines that will make things go more smoothly.

Take some initiative and do some planning:
Nothing sucks more than driving multiple hours to a place only to be turned around because you didn’t check to make sure the location was open for business. The following are all reasons that I have been turned away from entering a wilderness or recreational area that I otherwise would have been able to enjoy:

• Trail work: the place was shutdown for the week due to maintenance.
• Fire: Forest fires were in the area and they had not been letting people in for some time
• Hunting season: The trail shared a section with a National Wildlife Area and was closed for hunting season
• Bear Kill: A bear had made a kill (not human) in the vicinity and the ranger’s policy was to quarantine the area for one month until they moved on.

Any one of these situations could have been averted if I had simply picked up the phone and called the National Forest service, local ranger, or area bike shop. And I wouldn’t have wasted a weekend or a tank of gas for nothing.

In this case, I learned from my past mistakes and called up the local ranger who explained that, while it was hunting season, the area would be open. However, he did suggest that we not venture off the main section of trails. He also jokingly suggested we wear construction neon orange. After convincing myself he was kidding, I concurred it was an acceptable risk.

Be prepared for the worst
The card -carrying, neckerchief-wearing Boy Scout would tell you to always be prepared. A more pessimistic attitude is that Murphy’s Law will be in effect. I just always make the assumption that most people will ignore the former and get slammed by the latter. That’s why it never hurts to be a little over prepared. Sunny forecast? Pack the rain gear anyway. Toss a couple Cliff bars, a first aid kit and more than the typical maintenance supplies in the car, just in case. Inevitably, someone forgets a helmet or water and it’s nice to have a spare.

On this trip, I expected the morning to be much colder than the forecast had predicted on account of being in the mountains. I brought along an extra set of gloves and hat that I very much appreciated having while we tried to warm up after we arrived.

Make a game plan before you get on the trail
Are there people of different skill levels in the group? Is there a way to divide up and meet back up? What is the rendezvous time? Where will you wait for people to meet/catch up? All these things should be discussed before you clip in and start twisting down the trail. A five minute discussion before you start can save hours of frustration later. Our group had a spectrum of skill levels and rather than take a homogenized path we decided we stay together for awhile and then break into smaller groups. I printed out maps for everyone beforehand and passed them out that morning. We agreed to break at every major intersection to keep everyone together until we split up.

Have fun and don’t sweat the things you can’t control
Even with the maps and directions, part of our group still got turned around in the maze of trails and got stuck going the wrong way up a mountain until a nice man with a machete pointed them back in the right direction. We also had one guy blow out a tire and rim, single-handedly converting his bike to a unicycle. We just laughed it off and dealt with it. There was really no other option. We took lots of pictures and spent a lot of time agreeing that we’d rather be doing this than pushing our lawn mowers.

For weekend warriors, like myself, the occasional trips are beacons on our calendars and are anticipated like Christmas to a 10 year-old. Sprinkling in a bit of preparation and smart principles go a long way to insuring that the waiting and salivating was all worth it.

Solving Bicycle Noise Issues

Bicycle noises can be one of the most aggravating problems for cyclists. Although most do not cause any damage to the bicycle, they can make a ride completely miserable. I have seen cracked frames on rare occasions, but the culprit of a noise is normally something simple. There is not one root cause for squeaks or creaks, but they can usually (key word) be found quickly if investigated in a thorough and logical manner. I will not mention torque specifications since the average rider most likely does not own one, and these numbers can vary.

Whenever two metals come in contact with each other (especially dissimilar metals), there is a chance for a noise issue to occur. Application of grease not only allows the threads, spline, etc., to become tighter, but it also acts as a noise insulator in case there is any gap between the metals. Lithium bicycle grease is the most popular.

When trying to eliminate a squeak or a noise, perform one adjustment at a time, then test ride the bicycle. Although the disappearance of the noise is the end goal, nothing is gained by eliminating it without discovering the root cause. Do not wash the bicycle before the problem has been solved - water acts as a lubricant, and will cause the noise to disappear until the water evaporates.

The most common noise is a clicking while pedaling the bike. This is a drivetrain issue. The first thing to investigate is whether the pedal threads have been greased and/or that the pedals are tight. Although greasing threads seems counterintuitive, adding grease to (most) threads on a bicycle can eliminate almost all creaking Remove the pedals, lubricate the threads, and reinstall. Make sure that the pedal is tight, but do not over tighten.

When a creaking noise originates from the crank, it is most likely the left pedal or crank. Why would this be, since we apply the same pressure to both the left and right pedals? The left pedal receives the torque in a binary (on/off) manner — when the crank is pressed down at the top of the stroke. This is then transferred to the bottom bracket in the same position, time after time. The right pedal (drive side) receives torque in a much more distributed manner, since it is being divided over four or five arms on the spider from the chainrings. Of course, with the introduction of two-piece cranks, the loosening of the crank at the bottom bracket spindle is no longer a factor. However, 99% of the time, the left pedal is still the pedal which is creaking.

The next thing to check are the chainring bolts. If I am checking them, I normally remove them and apply grease to threads before tightening. Again, use uniform torque without stripping the threads.

Working backwards from the bike, check anything that the drivetrain might affect — grease the dropout and frame interface as well as the bolts/screws, check the tightness of the quick release skewer (even grease the face of the frame where the skewer attaches), etc.

Creaking seats can be a major problem as well.Often the noise is associated with the drivetrain, but it is actually caused by the rider changing position on the saddle, causing the rails and/or clamp to creak. Try wrenching the saddle back and forth to see if the seat is the problem. If so, remove the bolts and grease the threads, grease the rails, etc. Sometimes the point of attachment at the nose or in the back — spray a teflon lubricant in these areas if greasing the clamp/bolts did not eliminate the problem.

Due to the in-depth nature of suspenion problems, I will discuss this at length in a future article.

Mountain Bike Cable Tension

Many of us have the experience when we are on the trail and are transitioning into the big climb. Your fingers are poised over the shifters ready to rapid fire into the appropriate gear to ascend to the top of the climb. As your momentum starts to decrease your finger fires off a few clicks on the shifter you begin to pedal so the derailleur will shift your chain to your desired cog or gear and BAM! Your chest is thrown into your bars just before your front tire folds over and you are thinking “I hope I can get out of my clipless pedals before my bike hits the ground.” Your derailleur did it again, it missed your desired gear, didn’t shift, your chain came off, or…something else similar. The bottom line is your derailleur let you down. For years I rode under the assumption that if my derailleur was on the fritz then this is a task for a licensed professional and I either toughed it out with a bike shifting poorly or I did the hike a bike out. For all I knew a derailleur is not something that you can fix on the trail like a flat tire. However I was wrong.

When you encounter a shifting problem on the trail a lot of time it has to do with cable tension, which can be a very simple problem to remedy enough to get you back in the saddle to finish the ride. The cable in question is the one that runs from the shifter to the derailleur. On most mountain bikes there is a knob where this cable meets the shifter. This knob is one of the ways that you can fine tune cable tension on your bike. So if you are on the trail and you are having problems with your bike shifting properly simply identify which derailleur is having the problem. Then locate the cable for the corresponding derailleur and turn the knob no more than about 45 degrees. If problem still persists then go another 45 degrees in the same direction. Continue with this until you are able to shift your bike well enough that you can comfortably finish your ride. If the problem gets worse return the knob the original position. Once you are back at the original position turn the knob opposite of the way you originally turned it. I have found this to be a quick fix about 85% of my on the trail shifting problems. This is just a band-aid and if it works, I do strongly encourage you to seek out a professional to tune your bike. This is just some advice that I learned to pick up along the way to share with you to help you out when you are on the trail. Most of us do not ride with our bike mechanic to fix all our problems when they happen.

If this does not work for you another antidote that I have used more than once on the trail is to use an Allen wrench to manually adjust the cable tension at the derailleur. Sometimes I was able to adjust it so it would shift just fine. Most of the time, at least when it was a problem with just my front derailleur, I had to either adjust the tension so I could only use my bottom two sprockets. Occasionally when my cable tension was so bad (because I was too cheap to take it to a shop, I know this is my bad) that my chain was constantly falling off I had to adjust the cable tension at the front derailleur so it would not shift on the front derailleur at all. I was still able to use the rear, but my front derailleur was so out of tune that nothing else could have been done on the trail other than rigging it to stay in the smallest sprocket just to get back to the trailhead. This makes for a frustrating day of riding, do not let your bike get as out of tune as I did, but if you do, which I know some of you will, you will know what to do WHEN not if disaster strikes.

Cable tension is a regular problem with mountain bikes, and you are not alone in the problems with shifting world. It is a problem that plagues both full suspension and hardtails alike. However I have found full suspensions to be more problematic with cable tension than the hardtails. Some of the things that cause cable tension problems are:

1. Riding: mountain bikes take impact and abuse and this causes movable parts to move.
2. Shifting: when you shift your cable moves and pulls your derailleur in one direction or another.
3. Transport: we are all guilty of being too over zealous and throwing our steed into the back of a truck to hurry and get to the trail head as soon as possible and this can push your derailleur into a position that stretches your cable beyond where it is properly functioning.
4. Storage: improperly storing your bike can make components shift and move and cause cable tension to be thrown off.

So take care of your bike and have it serviced by a professional regularly so you can minimize on the trail catastrophes. Because problems don’t occur in the parking lot or just after your ride is over. They happen when you are too committed to return the way you came or right before you get to the good part of the trail.

Get More Power Go Faster: Some Quick Tips

New Chain
A lighter chain doesn’t always mean you’ll go faster. Lighter chains, especially those with hollow pin designs can introduce a lot of flex into your drive train. Chains like the Wipperman Connex are made of stainless steel and a bit heavier but offer excellent power transfer which equals more speed. In the big picture heavier doesn’t always mean slower.

Weight Distribution
When climbing weight distribution is especially important. If your rear tire slips try shifting your weight back a little bit. This will increase your traction and get you up that hill quicker. For sand almost everybody knows to keep your cadence up, but you should also shift your weight back, so your front wheel barely glides along the top of the sand. Practice this and you’ll be able to conquer massive 8” deep sand drifts with ease!

Using the Trail
Learn to flow with the trail. It takes practice but stay dynamic on your bike. Move up and down, loading and unloading your tires and suspension as the trail changes. Lean into corners more and try to turn your handlebars less. One of the biggest aids is to use your brakes less. Every time you brake you are wasting your energy. Now of course there are times you have to brake, but get comfortable riding and handling terrain at faster speeds, and be mindful of your braking habits.

Pre-shift
Don’t shift while you are climbing or descending. Don’t shift while your riding through mud or a rock garden. Prepare yourself, shift to a proper gear before, and get ready. Shifting under load, on a hill or in the middle of a sand pit, means less speed and lost momentum.

Suspension
Stiffer suspension will mean less of your energy will be wasted in the travel of your suspension. Stiffer suspension can also mean more skipping around on rough terrain, which translates to less power transfer. The key is to find a balance. You may even want to use different suspension settings depending on trail conditions. Just experiment and have fun with it.

Tires
Tires are like suspension, find a good balance. Small size and numerous knobs means a faster tire on hardpack but slow on anything loose. Large knobs spaced widely grip good in the loose stuff but are slow on hardpack. Tire compounds can also make a difference. Go to your local bike shop or post a message on the MTOBikes.com forum to find the right tire for you. Tubeless will give you a light wheel and a little bit better traction. Higher tire pressures mean faster riding on hardpack, but slower progress and less control on the rough stuff.

Weight
It is a simple equation, shave weight and go faster. Anything that spins on your bike will provide the greatest benefit if you replace it with something lighter. That’s why one of the first upgrades on a bike is the wheels. But don’t just think about bike weight… A new XTR drive train might shave you a pound or two over your old XT, but you may be able to shave quite a bit more off of yourself, and save a lot of money in the process!

Cadence
Cadence is the speed at which your pedals rotate. Most mountain bikers gear themselves down using more of their leg strength than their rotation speed. Get comfortable with using easier gears but spinning your cranks faster and you will notice a significant increase in your speed. You won’t get worn out as quickly this way.

Nutrition
Make sure you are refueling your body as you use energy. If you suddenly run out of energy it is likely because you are not replenishing your carbs quick enough. Check out the MTOBikes.com articles on Nutrition, and look at hydration too while your at it;)

Exercise
Cross training, weight training, body weight exercise; it can all help improve your power and speed. Work on your cardio and build strength. Because of the dynamic nature of mountain biking vary your training. Circuit training can be an excellent way to boost your stamina on a bike. Plus it is never a bad idea to stay fit!

Used Mountain Bike Buyer’s Checklist

We’ve put together the below buyer’s checklist for you to use to help with the process of buying a used mountain bike.

Talk to owner about the history
Check for signs of maintenance (dry rot, rust, frayed cables, dirt/grease)

Wheels
No loose, broken or missing spokes
Wheels bearings have no play and rotate smoothly
Wheels are true

Frame
No major bends, cracks, huge dents, rust through frame
No dings or gouges through the resin on Carbon frame
Push against the cranks to check frame integrity
Check the dropouts on Carbon frames

Suspension
No major dents or breaks
Compression and rebound is smooth
Seals are good (holds are pressure, no oil leakage during compression or rebound)
All the controls function properly

Drive Train
No major damage, bent front der. cage, or damaged shifters
No broken, or otherwise damaged teeth on the chainrings or cassette
Shifts through all gears smoothly
Rear derailleur tension springs work fine

Brakes
Brake levers have no major damage
No damage to cable housing or hydraulic lines
Disc rotors have minimal to no warp
Brakes actuate and return properly and without hesitation

Other Parts
Quick releases function properly
No tears in the seat and seat rails are straight
Handlebars and stem have no damage and pass stress test
Pedal bearings are good and no major damage
Headset bearings are smooth
No play in the headset

Model and Price:

Location:

Notes:

Buyer’s Guide to Used Mountain Bikes

So you are looking for your next mountain bike. It is a big purchase, and a smart buy on the used market can save you a lot of money or give you a lot of headaches in the future. Many people abuse and improperly maintain their mountain bikes, and this may lead to problems easily noticeable as well as problems you will not be able to easily determine. This is where I hope to help. This guide combines the standard checklist for used bikes with a few extras to help you really get a good feel for how well taken care of the bike was.

Easy Tells
This is one step a lot of people don’t think about when buying anything used. Inspecting the bike for wear and damage will only tell you so much, but a few questions and indicators can tell you if the owner took good care of the bike or if it was abused and improperly maintained. The first thing to do is talk to the owner if you can. Don’t turn it into an inquisition, be casual. If you ask someone straight away how often did you maintain the bike most people will exaggerate the truth a bit. Start the conversation by mentioning that it looks like a great bike, or some other compliment, that’ll usually get them talking. Find out if they have other bikes or ride often, basically get a feel for their biking experience. Now is the time to find out how often they rode it and why they are selling it. Keep in mind that miles or ride time on a mountain bike mean absolutely nothing. I have seen bikes taken through washes and thousands of miles across country that were methodically maintained and remain immaculate. On the flipside I’ve seen bikes that were out ten miles and came back with broken chainrings and bent rear shocks. All you want to do is find out if this person knows bikes well, kept it maintained, had any accidents, just a little bit of the history.

After you had your little conversation, or even during, it is time to check some indicator spots to see if it was regularly maintained. A rusty chain, dry rotted tires, sun damaged reflectors, mud/dirt, and decaying seat mean this thing was stored outside and not cared for whatsoever. If it passes that test look for frayed cables, damaged cable housing, a bent derailleur hanger, and dirt and grease build up around and in the derailleurs. These mean that the owner probably put in some basic maintenance but not much beyond that. It doesn’t mean the bike is a bad choice, but there may be some hidden damage to watch out for. If it passes both of these tests with consideration (if it looks fine other than a frayed cable or something else very minor that’s not much to worry about) then you have the makings of a great bike, as the owner probably put in the time and effort to fully maintain it, and ensure the proper functioning of every part. You still are far away from a decision, but this will give you some background info to help make a final decision. Time for the rest of the tests.

Wheels
Check for loose, broken and missing spokes (spokes typically break at the nipple on the rim or the hub) by wiggling each one individually and carefully inspecting. Check the rim for any major damage and then wiggle the rim side to side to see if there is any play in the bearings. Spin the wheels checking wheel true (side to side movement in the rim) and listening for any strange noise from the bearings. Take time to inspect the wheels thoroughly.

Frame
First check the frame for cracks, dents or bends. If there is rust (only on steel frames) tap it to see if it flakes off or it is just on the surface. Aluminum, steel and titanium frames can take dents, gouges and dings without compromising the structural integrity, for the most part. Cracks, bends and huge dents mean the frame needs to be replaced. Face the bike like you are about to get on. Hold one of the handlebar grips in one hand and let the bike tilt away from you a little bit. Use your feet to rotate the cranks to their lowest point, and push on the side of the crank. As you do this make sure the frame flexes forward and back without any give or abnormal creaking noises. Most frames will creak when you do this, but you want to listen for any cracks being stressed, which will sound a bit different.

For carbon fiber frames you need to be a more cautious. Dings and scratches that do not fully penetrate through the resin clearcoat are nothing to worry about. Obviously cracks in any frame are a sure sign of failure, but smaller gouges through the resin coat may or may not prove to be a structural problem. Test the integrity of the frame by applying force. In other words you need to push against the frame, especially at joints to stress possible problem areas. If you hear carbon cracking (you’ll know it when you hear it) or see a crack in that spot opening, stop. This means the frame needs to be repaired or replaced. As a side note let the owner know what you are doing before you try this in case you open a crack: The owner may try to blame you for breaking their frame. On carbon fiber frames, sometimes the dropouts are carbon as well, so pull the wheels off and take a look just to be sure that there is no excess wear or damage.

Suspension
First visually inspect the suspension for any major dents or breaks. If it looks good compress it and let it rebound a few times. Focus on how it feels when you compress the suspension. It should be smooth and even in the travel. Watch for any oil leaking while you compress it. If the bike has air suspension and it is currently empty make sure you pressure test it to ensure the seals are good. Check to make sure all of the adjustments like rebound, compression and travel adjust function, if the bike has them.

Brakes
Inspect the levers and make sure they function with no issues. Check the cables and housing/hydraulic lines for any damage. For rim brakes make sure the calipers rebound promptly after you release the brake lever and they are not bent. For disc brakes spin the wheel watching the brake rotor for any bending or warping. Minor warping is common and that can be fixed if you know how, or want to pay for it. You can also run disc with slight warping, they will change due to the frictional heat.  Read more

Top 9 Ways To Make That Old Bike Feel New Again

Originally Posted on MTBTrailReview.com by Robb Sutton (aka 198)

Are you getting the new bike “I wants?” Everyone gets these from time to time and some of us get it more than others! It is a natural occurrence with cyclists as new products come to the market with the promise of being the next great design that will make you that great rider you have always wanted to be.

Do parts make you better? Sometimes…but being into the gear is part of the sport. There are plenty of riders on very expensive bikes that never tap into the bike’s full potential. This is not a bad thing…

But here you are…wanting the feeling of that new ride but don’t have the cash to make it happen right now. What is the cyclist that is starving for that new bike ride do to help the craving? He (or she) makes their current ride feel new again. Here are some much less expensive ways to make that “old” ride feel new again.

Why 9 ways?! Doesn’t a list like this normally have nice round numbers like 10? Well…I do realize that I do not have all of the answers, so I want you guys to fill in #10 in the comment section below. I learn something new every day and I have always come across a fellow rider that looks at things in a different light than I do. So let’s here what you guys have to say on the subject!

#1 - Time For A Tune-Up!

That’s right! Sometimes…something as simple as performing a complete tune-up can give your bike that off the showroom floor feeling. Many times, I see an event take place that I like to call…”A build up of tolerances.” By themselves, each of these slightly out of tune parts may go unnoticed during a normal ride. When you add several components together that are out of whack, this can cause the entire bike to feel off. Taking care of all of the mis-adjusted parts at once with a full tune-up will make your bike feel much better on the trail.

Don’t work on your own bike? Take it to a local bike shop to get the work done. Check on your local online forums or ask riders at the local trail head for the best shops in the area. Don’t always assume that the shop closest to your house or work is best for the job.

You can also check out this post on the “Top 10 Tips To Keeping Your Bike Running Smoothly” for more suggestions.

#2 - Replace Cables

Worn out shifter cables will degrade shifting performance. When your bike is not shifting correctly, it can really ruin a ride. Replacing all of the cables and housings will bring your shifting performance back up to where you expect it to perform. Most times, you may not even realize how bad it has really gotten until you change them out. I use the Shimano XTR cables on my personal rides. The performance vs. value is hard to beat.

Keep in mind, with new cables…you will have to do some minor adjusting after the first couple of rides to account for the initial new cable stretch.

#3 - Replace Drivetrain

What is included with the drivetrain? The rear cassette, chain and chainrings. It is recommended that you change out all of these parts at once because they essentially wear into each other. Replacing one component at a time can cause pour performance do to the wear of the other related parts. A new drivetrain makes the performance of your shifting and pedaling as efficient as it used to be.

What do I use?

SRAM 990 Cassette, SRAM 991 Chain and Blackspire SuperPro Chainrings (24/34/Bashguard)

#4 - Rebuild Suspension Components

The suspension system is your communication with the ground (minus wheels, tires and your body). Poorly performing suspension components can make the bike feel harsh and in certain situations can actually hurt the ride. Rebuilding a suspension fork or rear shock normally includes things like fluid change, seal replacement, replacement of worn parts, cleaning, etc. Once a suspension component is rebuilt and set for your riding weight/sag, it can feel like new again and your ride will completely change.

Where do I get this done? For a simple factory rebuild, some LBS’s will do it or at least send it back to the manufacturer for you. I really like the job that the guys over at Push Industries put together. Not only is it a rebuild, but it can also be a tune that is specifically spec’ed to you and your riding style. I don’t think Push has ever seen an unhappy customer. If you really want to feel your shock come alive…send it to those guys. Stay tuned for an exclusive interview with Darren from Push later this month.

#5 - Upgrade Parts

Minor or major upgrades can make a huge difference. For me…there is a hierarchy of parts that make the most difference and rank the highest in importance.

Wheels - Poor wheels can make even a great frame feel terrible. This simple upgrade can increase the quality of your ride more than any other single component in my opinion. A stiffer build will hold lines better…a lighter build will decrease rolling resistance so you can pedal easier…more engagement will help in technical situations…the list just goes on and on. One of the better advantage about investing in a better set of wheels is that you can move them from bike to bike. Talk to a reputable wheel builder about which set will be the best for your needs. I normally recommend Kovachi Wheels or Chad at Red Barn Bikes.

Brakes - Brakes not only stop your bike, but they control the ride. I love brakes that have superior modulation because they allow you to control turns and technical riding with ease. Typical “on/off” feeling brakes do not do this as well. On the top end…Hope or Formula is hard to beat. If you are a budget minded rider…take a look at the Avid Juicy’s.

Suspension - Like I said in #4, your suspension is how you communicate with the ground. Upgrading these components (fork and shock) will completely change how your bike rides. Just keep in mind two things: 1) For the shock, get the same eye to eye and stroke measurement as the shock you take off. 2) Try to stay as close to the same travel on the fork as the previous one you had installed. Going above or below this measurement will change how the bike rides, and in some cases…voids the warranty.

#6 - Clean Bike

Proven fact - A bike does not ride well with mud and dirt caked into a bunch of moving parts. Mud and dirt also act like sandpaper against components, so cleaning your bike regularly is a good idea anyway. Get rid of that extra weight and clean it! Suzuki Motorcycle Wash and a fresh lubing will make everything function properly for a long time to come.

#7 - Try A Different Configuration

Has your riding style changed from cross country to all mountain? That 120mm stem may be hurting you in technical sections. Try switching to a 100mm or 90mm to get more stability. Have you really gotten into those steep climbs lately? Try a longer stem to get your weight farther forward.

The truth is that our riding styles change over time with our preferences. This means that your previous stem/post/seat configuration may not be suitable to your current riding style. Try changing things up a little bit and see what happens. You may find that you are really happy with the results.

#8 - Try New/Different Tires

Tires are may favorite part to switch and try something new. Why? They are historically cheaper than most other components and they really change how the bike acts on the trail. There are more options for the mountain biking market today than there has ever been. I normally like the tires out of the Maxxis, Schwalbe and Kenda line-up but if you see a tread pattern that strikes your interest…give them a try.

The trend lately is to go for larger volume tires. Their weight has come down a lot over the past year or two and they provide more traction and bump absorption. As a by-product of the higher volume, you can normally run lower pressures without pinch flats. If you haven’t tried a set of the larger volume (2.25 and up)…now is the time!

#9 - Pro Fitting

As discussed in this article, a pro fitting can make your bike perform exactly how you want it to. A pro fitting can also get rid of any small annoyances during a ride like back pain. Get in touch with a LBS in your area to see where a fitting might be available. Most of these will normally include a laser system to get it exactly how you need it. Many things that we sometimes take for granted (like cleat placement on your shoes) are placed with precision.

#10 - ______________

There you have it…my top 9 ways to make that old ride feel new again. Here is your chance to share how you make your ride have that new bike feel all over again. Let’s hear it!

Angles and Sizes, and How They Affect Your Bike

Geometry
Bike geometry is a big term and comprises of many complex angles and lengths. Most of these remain standard for the most part and do not greatly affect the ride characteristics of a bike. However there are a few measurements that can help you select the perfect frame or bike.

1. Head Angle is the angle of the head tube and fork with the ground. Cross-country bikes have tight head angles of 70-71 degrees. All mountain and downhill bikes will have a slack head angle from 66-69 degrees. A slack head angle will allow the bike to fly through technical sections easier; the downside is slacker head angles mean slower handling and climbing. The fork length directly affects this angle. Putting a 160mm fork on a XC bike designed for 100 will give the bike a slack head angle.
2. Seat Angle refers to the angle of the seat to the angle of the chainstay. Steep angles will put you almost directly over the cranks for optimum pedal efficiency whereas slack angles will sit you back, to more easily take on the technical stuff. Bikes with slack seat angles are paired with slack head angles and vice versa.
3. Bottom Bracket Height is the clearance your bike has. Your bottom bracket is the lowest point on your bicycle and when you’re getting into technical terrain and hoppin’ rocks, clearance can become a concern. All-mountain and downhill style bikes will have higher bottom bracket heights than cross-country bikes. Nevertheless the higher the bottom bracket height the higher your center of gravity. High bottom brackets mean slow cornering but can save your chain rings from bashing into rocks.

Fit
Fit is very important when it comes to bikes. Improper fit can lead to poor control, loss of power, and even pain and joint/muscle problems. This is just a quick guide to show you what different angles and sizes do to change the performance of a bike. For info on the actual fitting process do some searching or visit your local bike shop.

1. Frame Fit is based on a couple of factors: Your height will of course be the main factor, but another thing to keep in mind is your riding style. For example a 6’2” person will be a perfect fit on a 21” cross-country hardtail, however they could also fit on a 20” or even a 19”. For long rides with less technical terrain, a larger bike will be better, in our example the 21”. Say our rider wants a hardtail but will be riding on more technical terrain with quick turns. In this case a 20” or 19.5” would be a better choice. A smaller frame will give you more control over the bike in tight and technical sections. Longer bikes will be more stable and comfortable for longer rides. I have a 20” single speed and a 19” geared hardtail. My single speed is great for cruising through national forests, while my geared hardtail is my first choice for anything really technical or fast.
2. Stem length and Angle will change your riding position on the bike. For more climbing run a longer stem (90mm –120mm), with 0-10 degrees or rise. This will keep more weight forward and put you in a more efficient pedaling position. For downhill and technical terrain run shorter stems (40 – 70mm) with 10-15 degrees of rise. For a combination run a stem in between these measurements.
3. Seat Height is a pretty easy adjustment. Sit on your seat and stabilize the bike. Put the heel of one foot on the pedal and bring the pedal down so the crank arm is parallel with the seat tube. At this point your leg should be able to straighten out completely. If you cannot straighten your leg out fully raise your seat, and if it feels like a stretch lower your seat. For more technical riding run your seat lower. This will sacrifice pedaling power but give you more room to move around as you conquer the rough stuff.
4. Seat Angle: For climbing point the nose of your saddle slightly up, for downhill and jumping put it slightly down. If you do both, keep it level.
5. Seat Position (forward and backward position) will change your riding posture. This will mainly affect your lower back. The easiest way to adjust this is just try to feel it out (concentrate on how your lower back feels, tight or stretched) or have an experienced rider watch your position.
6. Lever Position should be set up so when you brake, your arms and wrists will be in a straight line. For braking on flats your levers will be tilted downward more than for downhill. Choose a setup that will be comfortable for the majority of terrain you are riding.

Going the Distance…The Tools and Gear to Bring With You on Your Next Long Distance Journey

You’re a seasoned veteran of the mountain bike and as you seek new adventures in untamed wilderness. BE PREPARED! Minimal first aid and backup supplies may work for the trail rider, but for those long adventures it is very important to be ready for any problems nature may throw at you… your life may depend on it. One of the main considerations with anything regarding bikes is weight and size. More gear adds weight, and nobody wants to carry a huge pack. By finding items that can fulfill a variety of uses you can drastically cut the weight and size of your emergency gear. I have designed this guide for the minimalist rider. It will give you the essential tools you need to survive, but you may want to further your knowledge and your gear selection depending on your needs and wilderness experience.

Bike Operation
Bike operation is simply what you need to keep your bike operational. A breakdown 30 miles from any civilized help can be a real issue. If you are reading this you probably have all of the essentials like the multi tool, tubes, patches, air pump and whatever else. One great tool you should include for your next adventure is a good multi-tool (as in a Gerber or Leatherman foldout, not the bike multi tool). The pliers on these can help you bend broken spokes out of the way or provide an improvised tool to fix a host of problems. Not to mention the screwdriver, knife and other attachments give you more options and wider variety of tools to fix whatever. Other things to carry are a spoke wrench, extra spokes, a tire boot if you don’t already (even if you’re not running tubeless), duct tape (reroll a few feet yourself to save space), a rag, lube, a chain breaker, extra links and even a small adjustable wrench. I know it sounds like a lot, but none of these items take up very much space and they can really get you out of some tight jams. Another one of the best tools you can carry with you is knowledge. I know some people don’t like to, but make an effort to learn how to repair your bike. There are numerous classes, books and WebPages that provide detailed instructions. The Park Tool website is one of the best, in my opinion.

First Aid
Hopefully you are already carrying the basic stuff with you. The biggest mistake I see people make is they carry only supplies like Band-Aids and ointment to take care of minor cuts and scrapes. I don’t know about you but minor cuts and scrapes aren’t really a big concern for me when I’m on the trail: On the other hand fractures, gashes and major wounds are. This is especially important when you are out blazin’ epic trails, across steep technical mountainsides, far away from civilization. On urban trails you don’t have to worry about first aid much, but as you venture farther away from civilization you usually encounter more difficult terrain and become farther from help. We take for granted the first aid services in the city and even small towns. Out in the wilderness we might be hours or days away from any aid, and that is if we can contact someone right away. If you are out of cell phone range, you may even have to hike back a ways just to send out a distress call! This is why it is so important to be prepared. Some things to bring are Band-Aids, moleskin (for blisters), duct tape (for closing large wounds in a pinch), 3M Coban (I prefer the veterinary stuff, also doubles as ACE wrap), gauze (roll it tight and put it in the center of the Coban roll), sterile dressings, large butterfly bandages, triangular bandages (many, many uses), Ibuprofen and Aspirin (take Ibuprofen to kill pain while you have a wound and Aspirin for headaches and other things…Aspirin is a blood thinner but also an anti-inflammatory), and an instant cold pack. There are many other First Aid products you can stuff in your pack, but these will allow you to stay minimalist and have the first aid gear you need for almost any situation. Splints are another good idea, but these can be improvised in the field without too much work (SAM splints are great though!). If you want to further prepare yourself, learn what to do: Take Wilderness First Aid! Many organizations offer it including the Red Cross. There are lots of options as far as First Aid classes go, but Wilderness First Aid teaches you what to do in delayed care situations, which you will be in. Standard First Aid classes teach you what you need to do to keep the victim alive until the ambulance arrives, but in the Wilderness, help may not even be coming until you go and get it.

Survival/Emergency Gear

You may find yourself in a situation where you get delayed, your bike is broken or you are injured too much to continue. A small kit of a few essentials can save your life! Some of the survival needs are water, food, shelter, first aid and signals. There are also other things like fire and human contact. The importance of each will depend on the resources on hand and what you can locate nearby. KNOW YOUR ENVIRONMENT! If it is cold and windy shelter and fire are going to be your first priority. Hot and dry means you might need to find another source of water and locate shade. Tailor your gear to your environment. Here are some essentials almost everyone should carry: A good multi-tool (I like Gerber), some rope (not string), a couple light sticks (for signaling), magnesium flint fire starter (lighters and matches suck in the wind), headlamp (Black Diamond has some of the best, with dual NiCad and AA operation, you’ll stop spending money on flashlights after you buy one), GPS (great idea to keep track of your position, Garmin has some with high gain antennas for better reception), extra batteries, water purification tablets, poncho, solar blanket, ID bracelet, duct tape (see a pattern?) map of the area, and a compass. Better yet don’t just pack ‘em, learn how to use them. Practice makes perfect and gives you the confidence you need to turn a life and death situation into a simple exercise in your problem solving skills. Read more

Next Page »