Your First 24 Hour Team Race

So you have been racing your mountain bike for a while and now you are thinking of venturing into 24 hour racing in a team format. I would definitely recommend it—it is a lot of fun. But there are some steps you can take to make it a better experience.

1. Make sure you and the rest of your team have the same expectations. There is nothing worse than not being “on the same page” as another on your team. Whether you are doing it for fun, trying to win it, or somewhere in between, it is important to ensure that everyone has similar expectations. Then no one will be disappointed.
2. Know the course—that means pre-ride it. You can look at a course all you want on a map and study its profile, but it is always different when you are actually riding. In 24 hour racing it is really important to know that crazy turn, obstacle, and the unexpected before you are racing. One of the worse things that can happen is calling it quits because you got taken out by the course. Pre-riding is especially important if there is the potential for your first lap to be a night lap. Ride the course.
3. Eat your food. You have to eat because your team is counting on you. Make sure you have a wide variety food— real food and race food because you never know when your digestive system will decide that it is only going to tolerate X. If you don’t have X, you are screwed. Racing food—gels, bars, drinks—tend to be easier to digest and still provide the needed energy. Electrolyte supplement are also a really good idea.
4. Get good lights. There are a lot of things you can skimp. Generic cereal, brand X jeans, but you get what you pay for with lights. They are expensive, but coming from a frugal person (ie cheapskate) you want to pony up for something decent. You may not need the lightest weight or the quickest charging lights, but you want something good—HID or a high lumen LED. I would also recommend a dual set up—handle bars and helmet. This lets you see what is in front of you and ahead of you at all times. Also set these up the night before just in case you get the transition lap (light to night). It is hard to know where you want your lights aimed when it is light out. And if you can practice your night riding, you will be better for it.
5. Bring your spare parts. If you have a spare part, bring it. You never know what you or someone else is going to need. Make sure you bring the basics—brake pads, tubes, tires (yes, tires not just tubes), chain or extra links, etc.  Read more

Why Is Steel So “Real?”

Anyone who’s kicked around a bike shop on a Saturday has heard, possibly ad nauseam, the perennial phrase “Steel is Real.” If you’ve ever wondered about the reasoning behind this maxim, you’re not alone. Choosing a frame material, especially for the neophyte rider, can be overwhelming. Most of the bikes in your local bike shop are probably made of aluminum, the nicer road and mountain bikes are now made of carbon, a couple expensive ones will be made of titanium, and there might be a steel bike laying around somewhere. Steel is one of the oldest (if not the oldest) bicycle frame building material that is still available today. For years steel dominated the bicycle market as the frame material of choice. In the past twenty years or so other materials have crept onto the bicycle scene. Some have stayed and some have gone, new materials for bike frames have been discovered and tested, but steel has maintained its viability and is beloved by many a cyclist. “Steel is Real” is not a saying fueled strictly by nostalgia–steel has proven itself and isn’t going anywhere.

We won’t bother talking about the first bike built out of steel, this isn’t a history lesson in the chronology of bike building, but we will talk about the qualities that have made it a favorite among custom builders and aficionados. The next time you’re slacking at work, take a look at the photo gallery from any of the last four National Handbuilt Bicycle Shows (NAHBS). You’ll find a couple aluminum bikes, a handful of titanium frames, one or two carbon bikes from renowned bicycle magnates, and an overwhelming majority of steel frames. So the question remains, with all the advances in technology and design, why is steel even a consideration for boutique designers? With a bit of examination we find that those who have been around bicycles and bike-building for significant amounts of time have the ability to weigh all the criteria of a material coupled with the desires of a rider to build an optimally performing machine. One whose ride quality, strength, stiffness, cost, and overall performance have been considered. Let’s make something clear: Any material on the market (and hopefully more to come) can be crafted into an elegant and appreciable ride if placed in the hands of a conscientious craftsman. However, steel still seems to find a way to satisfy all the criteria most builders consider.  Read more

Top 3 Exercises for Explosive Gate Starts

One of the most frequent questions that I get from riders around the country is “what are the best exercises for gate starts?” Apparently a lot of people are looking for the “magic exercises” that will make a big difference in their perceived weakness out of the gate and/ or the few strokes immediately afterwards. First off, if you are looking for just one exercise to cover most biking ills I would have to recommend the deadlift, as a properly performed deadlift will target most of the areas aggressive MTB racers are lacking in and most are very weak in this lift.

However, this exercise is a must for every MTB rider and not necessarily specific to gate starts. Since off-season training is upon us I decided to reveal my Top 3 Exercises for Explosive Gate Starts. I think that anyone with a gate start at the beginning of the race (like you DH and 4X riders) will find these exercises extremely useful as a part of their strength training program.

First, you’ll quickly notice that there is not a leg press to be seen on the list. With few exceptions (injury being the only one I can think of right now) the leg press should never be used in an MTB strength training program. Sitting down and bracing your back against the seat back of the leg press will artificially strengthen the core. You are only as strong as your weakest link, which is usually the core’s ability to act as a platform to create strength from. By taking your core out of the equation as the weak link (as the leg press does) you create false strength, or strength that you can not use on the bike. Since you can not brace your back against something on your bike, the leg press should be avoided if you are serious about your strength program maximizing your riding potential.

1. Banded Deadlift –This exercise is indispensable in your quest to build an explosive gate start. A more advanced form of the regular deadlift, this requires the use of strength bands. These thick rubber bands are not the same as the rubber tubing you see in most gyms and are designed to add several hundred pounds at the lockout point of the lift.

By attaching the strength bands to the bar and doing a deadlift you will maximally overload the full range of motion, especially the top half, as well as really forcing yourself to accelerate and explode in order to overcome the stretching bands. If you watch a great gate start you will notice that the rider basically performs a ¼ deadlift action, throwing his hips out in an explosive manner. This action requires extremely explosive hips and few exercises can match the specific nature of this movement and its requirements like the banded deadlift.  Read more

Roll Faster

I typically run Kenda Nevegal tires because of their strong gripping characteristics ideal for tight switch backs.  I ride in terrain that varies quite a bit so these are my “all-purpose” tires.  When rolling through mud the Nevegals maintain their traction and gripping abilities while also cleaning themselves out quickly through puddles or dry terrain.  With any tire with an aggressive and bold tread comes rolling resistance.

When terrain was dry and hard I felt the tread pattern was actually holding me back and slowing me down, yet they still provided the sense of security when cornering.  I wanted to be able to decrease the rolling resistence without sacrificing much traction.  My mission was clear…I contacted Kenda.

The Solution

I connected with Jim at Kenda and he and I hashed out some ideas.  We decided it’d make sense to run a Nevegal in the front and a Small Block 8 tire in the rear.

The Outcome

After a few rides utilizing the Small Block 8 I’m able to provide some good feedback.  Running a Nevegal in the front helped stabilize steering and maintained the integrity when cornering as it paved the way for the Small Block 8′s that seemed to want to go faster and faster.  It did indeed enable me to roll faster.  Read more

The Ultimate Mountain Bike Tire Guide

Anyone who has been involved with Mountain Bikes for some time knows that tires can be one of the most confusing and controversial topics.  Some say this tread is faster but others say that.   Some say a softer compound is better here but someone else disagrees.   I’ve talked to a lot of people, rode on a lot of tires and finally I am ready to write THE ULTIMATE TIRE GUIDE!

First I just want to get this out of the way.  The biggest compromise between different tires is that of traction/rolling resistance.  Greater traction generally means a slower but more controllable ride.  Less traction means you will fly off hard terrain but can easily loose control, slide out, or loose traction on loose terrain.

Kevlar or Wire Bead

First if you don’t already know there are two types of beads, Kevlar (also called folding) and Wire.  A wire bead means a heavier tire and in general a tire that is more difficult to install and remove.  The first time or two you have to install or remove your Kevlar beaded tire you may be in for a struggle.  They are sized small initially because the beads will stretch slightly over time.  This is by no means the rule as different manufacturers and models of tire will be larger or smaller bead diameters (slightly) but the general rule is Kevlar is lighter and eventually easier to manipulate.

Kevlar Belted Tires

Some MTB tires have Kevlar belts underneath the tread.  This means they have more resistance to thorns and other objects trying to penetrate the tire.  If you are having problems with punctures look for a Kevlar belted tire, it can help.

Tubeless Specific Tires

Tubeless tires are specifically made for tubeless setups, but you can run them with tubes if you want.  Many standard tires have small holes from manufacturing that will leak if they are ran tubeless (unless you use sealant).  Tubeless tires are made to eliminate these small leaks and usually feature thicker tread and sidewalls.  This is to decrease the chance of a puncture or tear since a tear in a tubeless tire can really screw up your day.  For those of you who do not know the benefits of tubeless, it offers slightly less rotating weight and better traction.  Tubeless tires really hook up with the trail!

Threads per Inch (TPI)

You may have noticed a measurement called TPI when you’re checking out tires at the shop.  The general rule is a greater TPI means a thinner walled tire that will be lighter and have less rolling resistance.  However, these tires will be easier to puncture or tear.

Tread Compound

There are soft compounds, medium compounds and hard compounds.  Kenda has their Stick-e compound that has made them famous.  There is no real measurement that manufacturers do to tell you how soft or hard their tire is.  The easiest way to check is to squeeze a knob between your fingernails and see how much give it has.  Or you can grab a knob and try to move it back and forth.  A softer compound will have more flex.  On the trail a harder compound translates to better energy transfer in optimum conditions.  Kenda has some of the softest compound tires on the market, and because of it, they can be a bit sluggish on hard pack.  But softer compound tires are great for rock, sand, mud, loose dirt and pretty muck everything else besides hard pack.  Choose a tire based on the terrain you will be riding on.  Another thing to note is the size of the knobs will affect their flexibility.  In other words a softer compound tire with big knobs will be stiffer and have better performance on hardpack while a tire with smaller knobs and the same compound will be slower on hard pack but perform better on rock and in the loose stuff.  Read more

Proper Disc Brake Wear-In

Disc brakes are one of the best advancements in mountain biking, especially downhill bikes. Rims can get bent without affecting the braking surface, braking power is much better, and water and mud are much less of an issue. However, disc brakes require more attention to the break-in period than V-brakes.

Recently, I set up a new personal bike of mine with Avid Juicy Ultimate brakes — 160mm rotors on the front and 140mm rotors on the rear. Although those brake are made to be extremely light and they are not extremely aggressive, I felt that they would be more than adequate for my 29” rigid single speed. There were some mounting issues with the rear brake due to the frame design, so I was down to the wire getting the bike ready for the ride the next day. After the first downhill, I realized that I had made an error in my haste – I had never broken in the brake pads. By the end of the ride, the brakes were fine, and a perfect match for that bike after they had worn in. However, the process could have been sped up with a few minutes of prep work.

To break in the pads, you want to slow the bike down from gradually increasing speeds. However, it is important not to come to a full stop. Basically, the best way is to find a gradual incline where you can make several runs with increasing speeds. Start at roughly 5mph, and slow the bike down to 1-2mph. Again, it is important not to lock the brakes up by stopping. Gradually increase the speed with the next run by roughly 3mph – 8mph on the second run, 11mph, etc. It is as simple as that. The main purpose is to seat the pads to the rotors, and also burn off any initial residue from the rotor or pads. After a total of 4-5 runs, the brakes should ready for actual riding on the trails.

Combo Lifts: Squeezing More Results into Less Time

One of the biggest concerns I get from mountain bikers about adding strength training into their regimen is that they do not have time for it. Family, work, personal lives and (most importantly) riding all add up leaving some of us with less than 2 hours per week for any other type of training. Because most programs (including my Ultimate MTB Workout Program) require 2-3 hours per week to complete these riders end up doing nothing.

However, this does not need to be the case. There is a training technique that will allow you to build strength, power, endurance, coordination and burn some fat, getting it all done in only 20 minutes. I’m sure that this sound too good to be true, huh? Well, this is one time the reality really does live up to the hype.

This “magic” technique is called combination lifts. This method has a few applications that I will discuss but they all have a few things in common. First, combination lifts string several exercises (usually 3-6) with each exercise being done for 5-6 reps each. Second, the exercises are done in a non-stop circuit fashion using the same implement and load. For example, if you chose to use 30 lb. dumbbells for your combination lift series you would use them for all of the exercises, not putting them down until you completed all of the reps of each exercise in the series.

Let me give you an example to better illustrate these points. Here is a good combination lift series that I use a lot in my facility:

• Jump Shrug (jump off the ground and shrug while holding 2 DBs at your side)
• Front Squat (raise DBs up by the front of your shoulders)
• Push Press (shoulder press with a little leg drive to help)
• Reverse Lunge (bring DBs back down by your sides)
• Stiff Leg Deadlift
• Bent Row

For this combination series I will assign 5 reps to each exercise. This means that you will pick up your DBs, do 5 reps of jump squat, immediately raise the DBs up to do the front squats and immediately go into your push presses, etc. until you have done 5 reps for each exercise. At that point you rest 60 seconds and repeat the combination lift series 3-4 more time.

One thing to consider with the combination lifts is that one exercise will always be the weak link in the series, meaning that you will have to pick a weight that allows you to complete the 5 reps for it. In the above example I have found that the push press tends to be that limiting factor for a lot of people. While we make some provision for this by putting the limiting exercise early in the series you still need to be aware of this and choose your weight accordingly. You must be able to complete all of the reps for every exercise using good form or else you must drop the weight down as to avoid an injury.

Also, while combination lifts are a great way to squeeze a lot of quality work into a short time and quickly produce some dramatic results, it does limit you in a two key areas. Basically, you will never develop as much raw strength and/ or power as you could by using a more traditional approach that will spend periods in each workout and in the overall program concentrating on these qualities. Combination lifts are a compromise in these areas, developing them but not to the same degree a dedicated program will.

Despite this compromise, though, combination lifts offer a lot of bang for the buck, giving you great results in the least amount of time possible. Plus, they can be done at home using only a pair of adjustable dumbbells or (preferably) Kettle Grips. This means that they are the perfect option for those that do not have a gym membership and have very limited equipment options.

Another thing that mountain bikers tend to enjoy is that this technique does not put a lot of muscle mass on the user. This is good for those that feel that too much extra weight could hurt their riding or adversely affect their suspension performance. While you may put on some, it will be minimal and what is added is highly functional muscle and is needed to support your increases in strength and power.

Lastly, I mentioned that there are a couple of different ways to employ the combination lifts and while all of them are outside the scope of this article I will share on more with you. You can take the exact same sequence of exercises listed above but instead of doing 5 jump shrugs, 5 front squat, 5 push presses, etc. you can do 1 rep of each exercise and run through the circuit 5 times. You will do the same exercises for the same amount of reps but you will get a greater conditioning and coordination challenge by going through the exercises this way.

So there you have it, a great workout that will take you less than 10 minutes to complete. I will usually do have people do 2 different combination series, one relying more on explosive movements and one relying more on strength movements in order to give a complete workout in less than 20 minutes. Even if you have the time and desire to devote yourself to a more involved workout program you can still use these combination lifts are a great way to get some anaerobic conditioning in at the end of your workout.

Give this a shot at your next workout and see what you think. If you are anything like me and my clients you will come out of the workout knowing that you just added a highly beneficial and fun tool to your training toolbox.

Is Aerobic Base Training Dead?

A couple of years ago I proposed some radical ideas on cardio training for mountain bikers. Ever since then I’ve had a lot of people doubt my sanity. Aerobic base training has been a staple of training programs for decades and many an off season program for mountain bikers has included an extended period of time reeling off boring miles on a trainer. While some people embraced my concepts (and proceeded to achieve better “aerobic endurance” despite doing little to no aerobic training) many others have questioned why this concept is so different that the “scientific” one.

Let me explain why this is – people in the strength training trenches figure out what works in the real world (which is MUCH different than a controlled lab setting) and then implement it. Sometimes what we do flies in the face of the traditional “science” of training. Sports scientists pick up on what we are doing, study it and then tell us why it works. This process usually takes about 5-10 years or more to go from the cutting edge in the trenches to being taught in the classroom.

So, this meant that there was not a ton of scientific studies to confirm what I knew – aerobic base training simply does not work on a consistent basis in the real world. But, now there are two landmark studies that suggest that anaerobic interval training is vastly superior to the out dated models still being promoted by the mainstream fitness media.

The main reason that mountain bikers felt compelled to include aerobic base training in their program was to increase their aerobic capacity. The scientifically accepted method to determine aerobic capacity is VO2Max (Maximum Volume of Oxygen Consumed), which is an indicator of how well your body can utilize oxygen. Aerobic training had been shown to increase your VO2Max, so therefore was considered necessary for overall cardiovascular development.

However, strength coaches on the cutting edge realize that the best way to raise your VO2Max, and therefore your aerobic capacity, is through interval training, not aerobic training! While this may not make a lot of sense, it is true. Several recent studies on anaerobic intervals produced some of the largest increases in VO2Max ever seen, including studies done on aerobic training.

One study in particular was done on what is popularly known as the Tabata Protocol. This method calls for 20 seconds of sprinting followed by 10 seconds rest and these mini-intervals are repeated 6-8 times per round. A workout may involve 1-3 rounds (complete recovery is allowed between rounds). Researchers found massive increases in the subjects VO2Max in addition to the anticipated increases in anaerobic endurance markers. The increases in VO2Max were some of the largest ever seen in a study and showed that aerobic training is not the only (nor the best) way to increase aerobic capacity.

Another landmark study that came out in the September 2006 Journal of Physiology studied the effects of 20 minutes of interval training (30 second sprints followed by 4 minutes of rest) vs. 90-120 minutes of traditional aerobic heart rate zone training. They found that the interval group which did only 1 hour of exercise per week had the same improvements in aerobic capacity as the aerobic group. Did I mention the aerobic group spent 4-6 hours per week exercising?

4 to 6 times as much exercise to get the same results in aerobic capacity? This isn’t even taking into account that the interval group improved their anaerobic capacity, something the aerobic group did not. This finding is astounding and shows just how much time you can waste with aerobic training.

I’ve mentioned this before and here is the proof – anaerobic intervals will increase your aerobic capacity as well as your anaerobic capacity but aerobic training does not increase your anaerobic capacity. All of this means that if you have limited training time (and who doesn’t) you may be wasting your time with aerobic training. Anaerobic intervals are the only way to maximize the effectiveness of limited training time.

Also, there is no evidence at all that you will burn out or get injured by training with intervals year round. This is simply a myth that has been told so many times that it has been taken as the truth. I challenge anyone to find me a single study that backs this claim.

What has been found is that going straight into hard training (either strength or intervals or aerobic) without a preparatory period will increase the likelihood of injury. So, like everything else, you must work into full blown hard core intervals and cycle their intensity and duration but there is no reason you can not do intervals year round.

Now, just to balance this out, there are 2 times when aerobic training has a place in your program. First, if you are so out of shape you can not tolerate even the easiest intervals then you should spend some time doing aerobic training to build your work capacity up a bit. But once you can do intervals you should make the switch.

Second, aerobic exercise is great for active recovery (something I have also mentioned before). Going out for a light 20 minute jog or ride will help to flush blood into the muscles and help you recover from your strength training and interval sessions faster. Outside of these 2 things, though, aerobic base training may be dead.

My mission in life is to bring our sport into the 21st century. You can get better results in aerobic capacity in less time while also increasing anaerobic capacity. This should be something that mountain bikers everywhere rejoice at because aerobic training is some of the most tedious and boring stuff around.

Dirt School DVD Teaches Mountain Bikers How to Improve Their Skills

Scottish national downhiller Chris Ball opened Dirt School in 2007 after realizing that there was no company currently offering mountain bikers coaching from someone who has been there, done that, and still racing.  The company holds classes aimed towards improving skills for downhill, xc, and freeride.  In addition, private classes are also offered.

Offering a fresh take on How-To films the DVD shows you the steps required to execute and master certain techniques.  Highlighted in the films are excerpts form the school’s lessons providing an easy way to “watch and learn”.  There are blue, red, and black level trails included for progression.  The DVD will help you ride with more confidence and attempt new feats.

Watch the trailer below.

Filming takes place at Glentress and Innerleithen trail centers located in Scotland.

Riders interested in purchasing the DVD can do so for £17.99 GBP by clicking here.

How Tight Are Your Hubs?

So I’m a pretty young guy, but I’ve been working on bikes for a little while. The other day I was doing a major tune-up on a customer,s bike and noticed the hubs, something which I usually only check in passing, were so tight you could feel the bearings. This was a relatively new bike too, so I checked a few others and noticed the same thing. It was then I realized the importance of checking your hubs, something I know that most mechanics usually don’t look at.

Hubs are just assumed to be fine…No play good to go, but over tightened hubs mean more resistance and faster bearing and cup wear. I always learned to tighten hubs just to the point where they have no play. However Mr. Hobbs from Park Tools says to leave a tiny amount of play in the hub, but when the wheel is tightened in the frame the extra pressure should remove this play. (Always check it) He also says if you do not leave any play in hubs they are too tight. I have tried this with varied results. Depending on the bike, sometimes no matter how little play I leave in the hub, I still end up with play when the wheel is tightened in the dropouts, so use your own discretion.

Anyway here is what to look for. When you turn the axle it should be smooth, but moving the axle back and forth should not result in a knocking feeling or at least on a very slight movement that should be corrected when the wheel is tightened in the dropouts. If you turn the axle and feel bumps, almost like notches, that means the hub is way too tight! Sometimes the easiest way to check for play is with the wheel still on the bike. Hold the bike off the ground and try to move the wheel side to side feeling for any knocking. Rotate the wheel half a rotation and try it again. If there is nothing that means the hub is fine or too tight. You will have to remove the wheel in order to determine how tight it is.

The process of actually loosening or tightening the hub is fairly straight forward. You need thin wrenches called cone wrenches to access the thin nuts on the wheel. Most bike shops should sell these or you can just let you local shop do the work for you.  Each side has two nuts. The inner nut puts pressure directly on the bearing while the outer nut keeps the inner nut locked in place. To loosen or tighten the hub you will need to loosen the outer nut on one side of the hub first. Pick a side, put one cone wrench on the inner, one on the outer and loosen. Now you can loosen or tighten the inner nut to change the pressure on the bearings. When you’re finished adjusting the pressure, tighten the outer nut back down while using a wrench to make sure the inner not is not tightened as well. If you do not do this you can end up tightening the hub by tightening the outer nut.

And there you have it, the secret of hubs.

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