However, recently a bicycle shop located in Prairie du Chein, Wisconsin called The Prairie Peddler has become the exclusive dealer in the United States of Singular Cycles. Sam at Singular hooked me up with shop owner Marty Larson who was kind enough to send us a Singular Swift frameset for review…something I have coveted for a long while now.

Each Singular frame is made from 4130 ChroMo and comes with an eccentric bottom bracket loaded with a shiny Phil Wood eccentric. Cable stops and derailleur hangars are incorporated into the frame for geared pleasure.

For more information contact The Prairie Pedaler at: theprairiepeddler@gmail.com

Random Posts

• September 2, 2008 -- Safety in Mountain Biking
• September 26, 2008 -- Going the Distance…The Tools and Gear to Bring With You on Your Next Long Distance Journey
• January 6, 2009 -- Nutrition Bars Created by You; Provided by You Bar
• September 23, 2008 -- The History of Mountain Cycle
• September 3, 2008 -- Are 29er’s Really Faster? The Physics Behind the Big Wheels
• November 16, 2008 -- Strong Cycling Skills Indoors? You Bet!
• January 8, 2009 -- Help Support Mountain Biking in National Parks
• July 13, 2008 -- First Ride On My Fully Rigid Singular Swift SS Mountain Bike
• May 12, 2009 -- NAHBS Announces Richmond, Virginia as 2010 Venue Location
• July 16, 2008 -- Big Wheel Revolution: The 29er

Listing for BMX classified ads will always be free and include up to 10 Photos, a link to your own web site, search engine optimized layouts and a large area for descriptions. The site is currently offering free upgrades to it’s listings including Featured and Highlighted options that will normally cost $5 each. One super cool feature on this new BMX site is the Twitter feature. Once you post a BMX listing on the site..the post is sent directly to their popular Tweeter page for other BMX enthusiasts around the world to see. This BMX for Sale site is the perfect place to list your BMX swag and best of all you can list items in under 1 minute! They also have a BMX Facebook Page and are looking for New fans everyday…so Check them out if you get a chance.

Random Posts

• November 21, 2008 -- Strider Running Bike Review
• March 27, 2009 -- Swiftwick Four Merino Sock Review
• February 13, 2009 -- Top 3 Exercises for Explosive Gate Starts
• January 10, 2009 -- Is Aerobic Base Training Dead?
• September 15, 2008 -- Feedback Sports acquires Ultimate Bike Support
• September 20, 2008 -- Advanced Hydration for Distance Riders
• May 26, 2009 -- Support Historic Opportunity for NEW Mountain Bike Access in Marin County, California
• January 30, 2009 -- Single Pivot Suspension Design
• February 11, 2009 -- Polar RS800CX BIKE in for Review
• September 6, 2008 -- Fight the Burn: How to Take on a Steep Uphill Trail and Live to Tell the Tale

For a company not as well know as Fox, Oakley, or Pearl Izumi they did a superb job on the construction of these shorts. First off I ordered them a size larger than usual–every pair of shorts I have ever purchased for biking run small. I attribute this to a mafia conspiracy. So the fact that these shorts fit was the first plus.

The next thing I noticed was the chamois. The softest thing to ever handle my undercarriage. One of the nicest things about this chamois is the smallest and finest stitching of any chamois I’ve ever worn. I have a pair of shorts that were expensive, but they have massive stitches holding the chamois to the shorts, which gives me a very unpleasant rash on long rides. I haven’t gotten a rash yet from this chamois (plus!). Another thing I liked is the chamois on a removable mess short liner with spandex leg grippers. I haven’t ridden without the chamois yet, or swapped the liner into another short, but you could if you so choose. It’s nice to have option.  

As far as the shorts themselves they are not the most fancy or technical shorts I’ve ever seen, but they work. There is nothing bad, weird, or gimmicky about these shorts. They are simple, comfortable, and functional. The material is more durable than a standard boardshort even though the cut is pretty similar. After a full summer of riding there is no fraying in the stitching or worn spots in the material. But unlike other shorts I own, the material isn’t coarse or abrasive. This is a nice feature–when you sweat the material doesn’t feel like you dropped a belt sander on you legs. There are several zipper pockets of different sizes for your keys, Ipod, cell phone, snacks, etc. On the rear of the shorts there is an elastic 4-way stretch waistband along with a Velcro waist since for a more custom fit. These shorts seem to be higher in the back and lower in the front which is how I like my shorts to fit. They ride low enough in the front that I don’t feel like Steve Urkle on a Specialized, but also high enough in the back that those behind me don’t think I am a mountain-biking-plumber.

By now you are probably thinking since these shorts are so perfect, do they save whales and feed starving children too? No, they are not complete perfection. There is one thing I have found that I am willing to compromise on, and that’s the low-hanging crotch. I got snagged on the saddle more than a few times, causing me to lose my balance and fall. For the most part the falls happened when I had my seatpost raised for steep climbs. However, there have been some close calls on steep descents as well. Nonetheless, this is a quirk that I will deal with because of all the good stuff. If this problem would be a deal killer for you I would check out Hoss’s other model, the Ponderosa.

Honestly I would buy another pair just to have two in case one pair is dirty. I won’t have to wear any of my other shorts, ever. These are simply the best shorts I have ever worn. Check out hossmtb.com or your local shop to try a pair. For the money you can’t go wrong.

• April 6, 2009 -- Hoss Technical Gear’s Stallion Shorts Review
• February 25, 2009 -- Hoss Technical Gear Stallion Mountain Bike Shorts Review

Bring you’re A-game, no ifs, ands or buts. This is advanced intermediate – expert riding only. When you roll out to Exeter, you’re going to experience first hand all that stuff they taught you in grade school such as: Why is New Hampshire called the granite state? Why are there so many rock walls in the forests in New England? Can we ride on top of them? And you’ll understand why farmers fled New England for the great frontier known as the Midwest for farming – because they weren’t mountain bikers. Let Iowa grow the corn, and leave us with the most mouth-watering, technical, flowing singletrack completely enshrouded in dense New Hampshire old-growth forest. This trail system is at least 14 miles of flowing singletrack up, over, around, through and screaming down some highly technical rock gardens, some flowing dirt track, and features natural rock drops ranging from 2’ to 4’+, amazing man-made free ride obstacles (gapped ramps, planks…) sponsored by local riders and NEMBA – www.nemba.org and www.snemba.org , some dirt jumps with step-ups… (Side note: we still farm here in New Hampshire, and Exeter is home to fantastic local seacoast farms, apple orchards, pumpkin patches, and cornfields, so bring the family, let them do the apple picking/petting zoo dance, and get your ass to the rodeo at Fort Rock.)

Getting There:

From Route 101, take Exit 10 to Rte 85 south, park at the trestle parking lot, about .25 – .5 mile south from the exit – when you see the giant granite trestle, turn right up the hill. Begin your ride by heading up the dirt road past the auto entrance that is blocked off to autos. Continue up the hill a couple hundred yards, and prepare to duck in to either the first or second trail head on the right. It doesn’t matter because you’ll end up riding a loop that is equally fun both ways, and I think it’s best if you discover the loops on the South side both ways to see the drops and down hills available to you. One thing becomes apparent within seconds: this trail network is going to make you work. There are long sections of large stones and boulders on the entrance to the trails, requiring you to muscle through and around the rocks. You’ll hit a little of everything on this side of the network. As you push through the trails – and consult the trail map at www.snemba.org , you’ll find that you can cross under Route 101 and into another section of trails. This section, the North Side offers more of the same, and really helps stretch out the ride.

Review:

What you’ll really enjoy about riding out here is that the trails are nice and stretched out with gentle elevation gains, so you’re not going to be twisted-up on a bunch of switchbacks that coil around on themselves, and you are able to really push the pedals and gain some speed to take advantage of the drops and rock-rolls that you encounter. It makes the trail that much more fun because you can relax without stressing over the next tight corner every 100 feet or the long slog up. You can ride a good 14 miles of rolling terrain with a few spurts of ups and downs. The other bonus is that drops tend to lead into flowing turns and built up rock rolls, the down hills are fast and offer lots of options for people who prefer to stay planted on mostly dirt and rock slabs to people who prefer to float over lots of stones and boulders and spend a little time in the air.

Packing List/Hot Tips:

• You are going to be riding a lot of rock. Expect to pop a tube in a pinch flat, or even worse gash a tire – I saw both the last two times I was there. Bring tubes, a small roll of duct tape, a dollar bill, and your pump. If needed, there’s a great shop a couple miles from the trail head called Wheel Power the guys who run this shop are riders, and stock their store accordingly. Meaning you won’t find cheesy 2.0 tires only for your 6” bike. These guys get it, and are down to earth. Find a trail map on their website as well.
• Bring a lot of water and a snack. You are going to be riding in a dense forest. It’s like a jungle, so if on hot days it’s 80% humidity (normal in New Hampshire) in the open parking lot, sure enough it’ll be worse in the forest.
• A lite-first aid kit. If the rocks are slick, there’s a good chance you or someone you know will dump. Be ready to help out.
• This is dog friendly, but you will encounter other bikers and dogs, and occasionally a race, plus you will be passing through some private land (read neighborhood) on the North Side. So, be aware of the privilege of riding with your little buddy, and make sure he/she will stay close by.
• Bring you’re A-game. You want to stay on the ball the entire time you’re riding here.
• Bring a sense of adventure and time. Don’t make this a ride where you’re limited on time if it’s your first few rides here. There’s a lot of stuff to explore, and it’s not worth doing if you’re pressed for time.
• Youtube videos of Fort Rock Exeter. Exeter Woods Mountain Biking is one of a 2 part series, but you’ll get the itch after watching these.

Random Posts

• October 16, 2008 -- Women’s Only MTB Clinic with Pro Mountain Biker Krista Park and Sorella’s Laina Hamilton
• January 9, 2009 -- Mountain bike champion to inspire at Coronet Peak
• November 21, 2008 -- Strider Running Bike Review
• August 14, 2008 -- How to Get Your Girl to Ride (Without Her Dumping You)
• September 1, 2008 -- MTBR.com Giro Xen Mountain Bike Helmet Review
• November 5, 2008 -- The Ride at Waterton Canyon, Colorado
• September 4, 2008 -- Commencal Furious Freeride Mountain Bike Review – Crankworx Colorado 2008
• March 16, 2009 -- All Harlot and No STD’s
• January 6, 2009 -- Nutrition Bars Created by You; Provided by You Bar
• August 10, 2008 -- The Presidential Five

OK, I’ve given this one a lot of thought. So many factors to consider: Performance, Weight, Stiffness, Price, Aesthetics, Reputation, Durability, etc., etc. Lets get some of the facts out of the way first:

Moots Open Trail 1-1/8″ bi-ovalized Stem (four-bolt faceplate)
Weight: 166 grams for 100mm length, (according to my digital component scale, don’t dispute me)
Material: Titanium, duh. (3/2.5 Ti for those of you who care)
Look: Super Sexy
Price: ~ $275-$400 depending on your retail shopping savvy. OUCH!!!!

Moots Cinch Layback Seatpost (Setback)
Weight: 222 grams (again, don’t mess with my scale, she’s sensitive)
Material: Same, duh
Look: Hotter than your girlfriend
Price: ~ $230-$305 retail

Now, the weight weenies out there will immediately look at the weight and get pretty excited. The pragmatists among us will look at the Price-to-Weight ratio and reel from sticker shock. The glamour queens will just look at the parts and have to wipe the drool off their chins. The question must be asked: Are these high-line parts worth the dough?

It’s not an easy question to answer, it all depends on the rider, their bank account, and priorities. There’s no denying the performance of these parts, Moots doesn’t need me to defend the quality of their product. I’m a pedal-masher and a gear-grinder, so I gave these parts a legitimate workout, and found no significant flaws. I expected the Open Trail Stem to be a little flexy–it wasn’t. I tried to get some wiggle out of it and couldn’t, it felt perfectly stiff. The bi-ovalized tubing is amazingly strong and the four-bolt faceplate is an improvement over the older two-bolt model. The Cinch Layback Seatpost was what you’d expect from a titanium seatpost, comfortable, although not as comfortable as carbon.  Carbon is definitely cushy, but I love the ti.  I have nothing against carbon fiber components and frames, but titanium lasts forever, literally, and if it fails, it won’t fail catastrophically and you’ll probably get back to the trailhead in one piece.  If you’ve ever heard that nerve-rattling bamboo-crunch of carbon fiber failing, you’ll appreciate having some titanium under your taint.  Plus, the new Cinch clamp is extraordinarily easy to use, the only caveat is that it fits ONLY 7mm rails.

So the Moots gear must be worth the money because the titanium is so light, right? Not really. Like most mountain bikers, I have a special reverence for titanium, but a common myth is that it’s the lightest stuff around. Titanium has a remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, but when you compare these parts to similar aluminum high-performance stems and seatposts, they don’t win by much. I rode these parts on the gorgeous Ventana El Bastardo (review coming soon!), which was sent to us spec’d with a Thomson Elite stem and seatpost (my personal favs). When I weighed the parts back to back, I found the titanium parts were lighter by only a few grams. The Moots stem was only lighter by two grams. Two grams? That’s it???? When you consider the retail price of the Moots combo sets you back about $600 (American Dollars!!) and the Thomson will only cost you about $200, the decision seems easy, right? Well, again, not really. 

Look at it this way: A well-optioned Corvette ZR1 can beat the socks off several models of Ferraris. The Vette will put about a $100,000 dent in your bank account, good luck finding a new Ferrari for less than $300,000 (depending on the model, car guys please don’t flame me, this argument is for demonstrative purposes). Does the difference seem similar? Right, the Vette costs about a third of what the Ferrari costs, similar to the difference in retail price between the Moots and Thomson parts. It’s undeniable, both cars kick ass, but which one would you like to see in your garage? I wouldn’t complain about either, but let’s face it, a Corvette is NOT a Ferrari. So, if money was no object which would you get? I suppose that’s a matter of personal taste, but last time I checked Ferrari wasn’t in fear of going bankrupt, people are still buying them. On a scale of 1-10 for performance, I would give both the Thomson and the Moots parts both a perfect 10. I personally think the Thomson stuff looks plenty hot, I have their stuff on most of my bikes, but when I put the Moots parts on the Ventana, there was no denying its super-bling factor. Simple, elegant, genius, and flawless. Raw titanium is just so damn pretty, and you don’t have to worry about rust. The only aesthetic complaint I have about the Moots combo is the stickers. Stickers? For $600 I’d like to see some kind of machined etching, anything but a limp sticker that comes off in my repair stand.

So, you have to ask yourself, are you a Corvette guy or a Ferrari guy? And don’t be a smart-ass and say “Lamborghini guy,” you know what I’m saying. If you’ve got the cash, and really want to step up the sexiness of your ride, buy the Moots, because every time you go into the garage and look at it you’ll forget how much you paid. I’m still a huge Thomson fan, but it’s really going to hurt when I have to send these beautiful parts back to Steamboat Springs, I’m going to miss them.

www.moots.com

Random Posts

• June 30, 2008 -- Big Drop Brian Head Mountain Bike Trail (Parowan, Utah)
• October 21, 2008 -- Fox Clothing – What Are You Wearing?
• October 3, 2008 -- Notes From the Field: On Location in Vermont
• November 6, 2008 -- Solving Bicycle Noise Issues
• December 11, 2008 -- Derailleur Hanger Alignment
• September 11, 2008 -- What You Should Have in Your First Aid Kit
• November 8, 2008 -- Trip Hints for the Weekend Warrior
• September 8, 2008 -- Tips for Newbies Looking to Bike for Weight Loss
• August 25, 2008 -- Giro Xen Mountain Bike Helmet Review
• August 31, 2008 -- Five Bikes This Downhiller Owns

MSRP as built: $720.00

Wheel weight only (as quoted):  1420 grams

NoTubes products aren’t new on the mountain biking scene, but they sell one of those product lines that generate a lot of controversy in the cycling universe. Much like all other subjective controversies, you’ll get a different story from every mountain biker you speak to. Some love them unconditionally, talking about their tubeless setup like they witnessed its birth. Others will tell you it’s all hype and you’re wasting your time on a potentially dangerous product. Well, after polling my local group of dedicated bike geeks and digging through other popular (and generally misinformed–no names, not yet) mountain bike product review websites, I’ve concluded that most riders criticizing Stan’s products typically have their wheels set up incorrectly–be it for their weight or for their style of riding. It seems to be a weight saving issue–it’s always the 250-pound rider that wants to sport the Olympic lightweight racing rim, and then bitch when they get a blowout or can’t keep the tire seated to the rim in a tight corner. Does anyone else find it strange that the Clydesdales are always the weight weenies? I’m no scientist, despite holding dual PhDs in Sweet Lovin’ and Good Times, but there seems to be a correlation worth investigating. Also, let the record show that I float slightly above or below the Clydesdale high-water mark of 200 lbs., so I take my weight-to-durability ratio very seriously. 

That being said, the 355 32-hole ZTRs coupled to American Classic Hubs with double-butted spokes, are probably NOT the wheel for me. Will they do the job? Sure. Problems? Probably not, but maybe. I had zero issues with durability or the tires holding to the rim on my local test track. Honestly, I found them to be stiffer than my in-laws. I felt no flex in the corners even though I was feeling for it. But lo, I am but a lowly writer/reviewer and must occasionally contend with what I am given; these are not the wheels I would have had built if I were keeping them. They are great though, and I didn’t have any problems, but I would have at least opted for straight-gauged spokes given my weight and usual riding conditions. The discriminating consumer must remember that NoTubes is a company that specializes in CUSTOMIZING a wheel build for a particular rider, they do not crank out a million bombproof wheelsets without rider weight limits, such as Mavic. They make educated choices for their wheel component combination based on the size of the rider, their riding style, and their common terrain. Nothing against Mavic, they make great wheels that hold up through nuclear blasts, but they’re not claiming to be the lightest wheelsets on the planet, nor do they have all the tubeless options that you’ll find with Stan’s.

Tubeless tires have gained popularity because they increase the contact patch (the piece of tire in contact with the ground at any given time) while allowing mountain bikers to run extraordinarily low tire pressures (approx. 15-35 psi), which increases traction. Needless to say, if you’ve been riding traditional tubes for awhile, it’s going to take a little experimentation with a tubeless system before you strike gold. Once you do, I’m confident you’ll be impressed.

So here’s the deal: Unless you’re an experienced wheel builder, call NoTubes and rap with them until you both come to a satisfied conclusion about your wheelbuild. I’ve laced a few sets of wheels, and I have confidence in my ability, but let’s face it, I don’t do it for a living. I’ll trust the pros to put together a solid build for me. The cost-savings is not that significant if you buy the hubs and spokes separately, and it’s doubtful you’ll do a better job than the guys at factory. The 355s were perfectly straight right out of the box and the tension was perfect, all I had to do was get the tubeless tires on there (Ravens, also provided by NoTubes–separate review to follow) and I was rockin’. All that AND they look gorgeous on my hardtail. If you’re considering buying a set of Stan’s wheels, here’s the breakdown of their ZTR rims lineup:

• ZTR Race – super, super, super light, quoted 284 gram rim. Do not buy this rim if you’re looking to huck, or if you are fat.
• ZTR Olympic – still super light, quoted “under” 385 gram rim. I repeat, DO NOT buy this rim if you are fat.
• ZTR 355 – very versatile rim, the only one that you can get in 26″, 29″, 650b, Disc or Rim brakes. You can be a little fat and ride these with straight gauge spokes, but ask first.
• ZTR Arch – without too much weight gain on the rim (approx. 50g heavier), this rim boasts a 25% gain in lateral stiffness over the 355.
• ZTR Flow – The Daddy Mack. I put together a set of these for my Yeti 575, super stiff, and I lost over a pound in bike weight after swapping the Mavic Cross Rides that came with the bike.

Another reason these wheels have received some bad press is because tubeless technology has been around long enough for us geeks to get good at going tubeless, but not so long that installation techniques have become common knowledge to the average rider. It’s not difficult once you get the hang of it, but the first time made me cuss. For the latest compatibility and fit tips visit help.notubes.com. And if you’ve never tried going tubeless before, try watching these videos, it helped me understand the process: http://www.notubes.com/support_movies.php. HOT TIP: Use A LOT of lubrication, i.e. soapy water, windex, etc. when getting the rim to seal, and use an air compressor if possible– no matter what they say, trust me, you’ll be glad you did. Have you ever been in a situation when A LOT of lubrication was wrong? Thought so.

www.NoTubes.com

• December 11, 2008 -- Derailleur Hanger Alignment
• October 8, 2008 -- Top 9 Ways To Make That Old Bike Feel New Again
• September 26, 2008 -- Going the Distance…The Tools and Gear to Bring With You on Your Next Long Distance Journey
• September 11, 2008 -- What You Should Have in Your First Aid Kit
• August 8, 2008 -- Duct Tape: It Holds the Universe Together…and Inner Tubes Too!
• August 7, 2008 -- Mechanic Tips: Replacing Wheel Bearings
• August 7, 2008 -- Tire Pressure: Something to Pay Attention To

I have been riding a rigid single speed 29’er for the past several months, so I am very familiar with riding 29” wheels. They are great for rolling trails, but I would prefer a 26” bike for racing or very technical singletrack. One of my good friends has become a 96’er convert, and now has a rigid Carver single speed, as well as another brand’s full suspension bike. I was intrigued by the 96’er idea, especially having come from a motocross background. A larger tire up front will roll more easily, which is why so many people are now riding 29”-wheeled bikes. On the other hand, it does take more effort to spin up a rear 29” wheel, so technical riding can suffer when acceleration out of corners is required. Companies making the 96’er-style of bicycle use this as the rationale for using a 29” front wheel and a 26” rear. After building Tom’s Carver 96’er single speed, I knew that would have to be my next frame! However, all three of my current mountain bikes are single speeds, so I knew that I wanted gears. I plan to race again (2 or 3 x 9), but in the meantime, I felt that a 1×9 would serve me perfectly in the Atlanta area, since I could ride most trails on a single speed. Given the benefits, a 96’er 1×9 would seem to be the perfect all-around bike.

As built, the Carver was 25.5 lbs. with pedals – very respectable, considering the fact that it had a 29” front wheel and fork. I was not aiming for a light bike necessarily – after receiving the frame, I bought the Halo rims, knowing that they would be relatively heavy since they were freeride rims. However, I compensated with the other components. I have never personally had Chris King hubs, but I have built dozens of wheels with them. I knew that I wanted the best. I decided to use a 20mm thru-axle just because. Originally I was going to get a FOX fork, but they did not have any 29’er forks in stock since they were transitioning to 2010 units. I currently have FOX, Marzocchi, and Rockshox forks on other bikes, so I decided to try the Manitou. I have been riding several models of Avid and Hayes disc brakes, so I wanted to try Magura SL. Finally, I went with the Ritchey carbon bars, stem, and seatpost.

The first thing I noticed about the bike was how responsive it was! The tubeless tires helped, but I was immediately comfortable on the bike. My friend Dave was riding behind me, and he commented several times on how well I was able to flick it around. I actually had to keep reminding myself that it was not a 26”-wheeled bike. It pulled a wheelie much easier than my other 29” bike, and just felt “right.” I was a little reluctant to push heavily into corners at first due to the standard tire converted to tubeless on the front, but my confidence increased as the ride progressed. The harder I pushed the bike, the more it seemed to want! The bottom bracket was super-stiff, and handling was exactly as expected. I have an old Mazda RX7 GSL-SE I am restoring, and this bike reminded me of that car – point it where you want it to go and it does the rest!

Descending was zero effort, and I felt perfectly confident at any speed. I will admit that the tires and brakes were a large factor, but the geometry of the frame was the main reason. Climbing was equally as impressive. I tried the new “Monster Mile” at the Fort Yargo trails in Winder for the first time, not having any experience with it. There is a decent-sized “horseshoe drop” which was the most technical part of the ride. The bike dug in and climbed out of the Georgia clay without incident – I never put a foot down on that entire trail!

I can’t say enough about how happy I am with the bike – it is the PERFECT mountain bike for almost every trail in Georgia! I am definitely a 96’er convert now, and that will be the bike I use mainly. Sure, the components were incredible, but they were only as good as the foundation. A painted Carver 96’er frame is $399 MSRP. I would take that frame any day over a $1,500 carbon 26” frameset! It was stiff and responsive with perfect handling. What more can I say? The bike was amazing!

Frame: Carver 96’er
Fork: Manitou Minute-29 Super 09 Absolute T-A – 100mm travel
Rims: Halo Freedom Disc (29” front, 26” rear) with Stan’s NoTube kits
Hubs: Chris King ISO Disc (20mm front thru-axle)
Spokes: Black Wheelsmith double-butted with blue alloy nipples
Brakes: Magura Marta SL (180 front and 160 rear)
Headset: Chris King NoThread
Shift Lever: SRAM X.0
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.0
Chain: SRAM hollow pin
Stem: Ritchey WCS carbon
Seatpost: Ritchey WCS carbon
Handlebar: Ritchey Super Logic carbon
Tires: Kenda Nevegal (standard 29” front and 26” UST rear)
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR Troy Lee Design
Grips: Oury
Pedals: Crank Brothers Egg Beater Ti

Random Posts

• February 26, 2009 -- Seasons Mountain Bike Film Review
• March 17, 2009 -- “Black Sheep” is No Misnomer
• January 31, 2009 -- Four Bar Linkage
• November 6, 2008 -- Solving Bicycle Noise Issues
• December 18, 2008 -- Entry-Level Hardtail Shootout
• September 18, 2008 -- What to Pack When Mountain Biking
• October 26, 2008 -- Truvativ HammerSchmidt: Shifting Into the Future
• September 29, 2008 -- The Single Speed Guide
• February 17, 2009 -- Last Day to Support Bikes in National Parks
• January 30, 2009 -- Single Pivot Suspension Design

I used to think a rack is a rack is a rack. I only cared about mobility, not caring if my bike got scratched or how easy the rack was to install, I just wanted to get to the trail. For years I’ve been tossing bikes in the back of my trusty Toyota, but as my bike wealth grew with my income (marginally), I started looking for ways to transport bikes without damaging them or scratching my truck. When my bikes started costing more than $1000 as so, so many of them do these days, I felt a nagging sense of neglect tossing them willy-nilly into the bed. I’ve tried most or all the tricks: the two-by-four with fork mounts, putting fork mounts on the side of the bed, disassembling the whole bike and squeezing it into the hatchback, roof racks, trunk racks, you name it, I gave it a shot. Right now I’m kicking myself for not trying a trailer hitch rack with my pick-up, for some reason it just didn’t make sense. I have a camper shell on the truck now and I’ve been digging rides from friends with HUGE vehicles when we go for rides, so maybe that’s why. For about a year or so, my buds have been telling me to try one of the hitch-mounted bike racks that have gotten so popular lately. I never considered buying one when I could just mooch off them. Besides, I like being able to drop my tailgate any time I want and sit idly on the back of my truck like the dumb yokel I am.

I did my time as a bike mechanic at the LBS and installed countless racks on more yuppie SUVs than any of you could ever imagine. Not my proudest moments, and I never found a rack I was really impressed with. Most were heavy, ungainly, unsteady, too big or small, or worse, horribly unattractive. I did start noticing the hitch-rack trend gaining popularity, and I feared inevitable hernia operations from lifting the beasts onto our customers like-sized vehicles. Then I lifted the Küat Alpha Rack. 

Wifey one-arming while wearing a Baby Bjorn!

My wife can lift this rack with one hand and hold it out to the side (see photo!) It has all the basics you would expect from a decent rack: holds three bikes, swivels on two pivots for easy storage and trunk/tailgate access, adapts to a 2” or 1-1/4” receiver, and built in locks to keep the bikes safe when you hit the bar after a ride. Furthermore, it’s made from 6061 T6 Aluminum (bike-building material!). It’s the easiest rack to install I’ve ever had the pleasure of sliding into a receiver hitch (all the others were NOT pleasant). Just plug it in, twist the Cinch-Tight system (Kuat’s term for “knob”) and you’re done. All this and it weighs 16 lbs. I can’t quote the weights of all the other racks I’ve lifted, but I feel confident they’re upwards of “ridiculous.” It also doesn’t hurt that it looks good, compared to the rest anyway–I put it on my truck last week, and that’s where it’s staying. Since it’s aluminum it won’t rust, plus it comes with a lifetime warranty.

The hardest thing about Küat is their name, which is aptly explained in the front of their brochure. The brand name is a combination of the founders’ names, I have no idea what their names actually are, and I have a hard time believing any of them have an umlaut….maybe they’re Mötley Crüe fans. If you only want to carry two bikes, you can go even lighter with their The Beta rack (11 lbs.). The final rack in their current lineup is the NV bike rack, the lightest platform rack (with a repair clamp!) on the market. Keep an eye on these guys, you’ll be seeing more and more of that goofy name if they keep up the good work.

Random Posts

• July 30, 2008 -- The Best Tools For the Trail
• February 8, 2009 -- Rays Indoor Mountain Bike Park Time Trials
• January 9, 2009 -- Dirt School DVD Teaches Mountain Bikers How to Improve Their Skills
• July 13, 2008 -- First Ride On My Fully Rigid Singular Swift SS Mountain Bike
• September 30, 2008 -- Angles and Sizes, and How They Affect Your Bike
• December 11, 2008 -- Derailleur Hanger Alignment
• February 23, 2009 -- HydraPak Reversible Reservoir II Hydration System Review
• June 12, 2009 -- Carver Bikes 96′er Mountain Bike Review
• September 10, 2008 -- Communing with the Animal Kingdom: Disney Moments on the Mountain Bike
• March 4, 2009 -- Your First 24 Hour Team Race

I am a sunglasses freak, an addict, some would consider it a problem. I don’t. It’s my favorite accessory. I’m not into jewelry, watches, “mandals,” or high fashion. I just learned what couture means. I don’t like to be without at least a couple choices for shades. And I’m picky, very picky. Some shades look good but fall off your face while playing hopscotch, others grip your face with a ferocity that would satisfy Kareem Abdul-Jabbar. Some look good, but fog up while you’re riding, or give you a headache after a half an hour. Finding one pair of shades that satisfy all the necessary criteria is a personal grail quest–some of us will never find them, even though we know they’re out there.

Yesterday I rode a rough thirty miles wearing the Julbo brand “Dirt” sunglasses, built specifically for mountain biking. The product label boasts mountain bike specific qualities such as “helmet friendly,” and “shock absorbent temples and nose pads.” My quest for the perfect pair of shades still continues, but I feel like I’ve taken one step closer. Let’s talk about what I didn’t like first, it’ll be quick, I liked a lot more than I didn’t: They’re white, which is an easy enough problem to solve, I’ll just order a dark-framed pair; huge white shades are for Paris Hilton and butterfaces. Okay, that’s about it on the negative side, let’s talk about what I liked, broken down into my four criteria to consider when buying shades:

Fit:

When you put on a pair of sunglasses, you shouldn’t know you’re wearing them other than your brain registering that you’re seeing in a different color. No pinching, no uncomfortable rubbing, no ugly red indentions on your nose when you take them off, no headache after a couple hours. For performance shades, here’s the kicker: if you forget you’re wearing them, the fit is good. They also have to stay on while doing whatever it is you do, without having to use one of those horrendously fratty head-straps. The Dirt from Julbo would hang on to an epileptic in an earthquake. One criterion down.

Anti-Fog:

Being able to see is paramount for adventure sports. A lot of optics companies claim their lenses are anti-fog, and I’ve tried most of them. I’ve found less than half actually deliver. I live in the sweltering humidity of Georgia, the perfect testing ground for lenses that claim to be “fogless.” I am a sweaty, dirty, fog-inducing individual. After thirty miles on a humid day in May, I could still see while wearing the Julbos, an unusual experience for me. I didn’t even get any stripes of sweat dripping down the lenses. I don’t understand optics technology very well, I just know that they work or don’t. We all have our personal taste for lenses: Polarized, rose-colored, amber, photochromatic, etc., but the most important aspect is whether you can still see after ripping down a trail or climbing up a rock face. Two criteria down.

Look:

Sunglasses are for protecting your eyes from the sun, right? Well, I guess so, but I will NOT look like a total tool to protect my eyes from harmful UV rays. I’d rather just close them. So my shades gots to look good. This is more difficult than it sounds, and I sympathize with the companies that attempt to make eyewear that functions in both the fashion and performance arenas. Sometimes making something perform well negates the ability to make it look good. But Julbo did it. My wife complimented them the second she saw them, and it’s rare that she wontonly strokes my ego. Julbo’s headquarters are in France, I think that has something to do with their ability to make their shades look good while functioning at the same time. Three criteria down, almost there!!!

Price:

These beauties aren’t cheap ($120-$160), but you get what you pay for. I generally don’t like to break three figures on shades, no matter how great they are I’ll eventually lose or break them. But in this case I feel the price is justified, I can think of other sunglasses companies that charge a lot more for a product inferior to this one. I would rather pay $100 for a piece of gold than pay $50 for a piece of crap. Sometimes, it’s just worth it. I can’t get excited about the price, but I’m willing to pay for this level of craftsmanship.

According to their website, the Julbo brand has been around for more than a century, but they’re considered an “emerging” brand in the performance optics market. I look forward to enjoying and testing more of their product if they’re all as good as their Dirt model of performance eyewear.

Random Posts

• May 7, 2009 -- Harlot H4M Murray Short Review
• January 31, 2009 -- Four Bar Linkage
• March 1, 2009 -- 2009 North American Handmade Bicycle Show Winners
• September 9, 2008 -- CLIX is the Fix for the Common Quick Release Skewer Blues
• March 27, 2009 -- Swiftwick Four Merino Sock Review
• February 8, 2009 -- Rays Indoor Mountain Bike Park Time Trials
• October 15, 2008 -- Made to Order Bikes, Inc. and The Bicycle Doctor Partner to Provide Custom Built Mountain Bike Service
• August 8, 2008 -- Duct Tape: It Holds the Universe Together…and Inner Tubes Too!
• January 16, 2009 -- Proper Disc Brake Wear-In
• September 29, 2008 -- The Single Speed Guide

This landmark opportunity is the direct result of more than three years of partnership building with the parks department by IMBA California, Access4Bikes and the Bicycle Trails Council of Marin. A successful opening of Bill’s Trail will set the stage for bicycle access to several other singletrack trails in Marin, which is widely considered to be one of the birthplaces of modern mountain biking. Despite its historic role, Marin has seen precious few opportunities for mountain biking open to the public in recent years.

Take Action! Tell California State Parks you support their decision to open Bill’s Trail to bicycles. The commentary period ends on June 26.

Additional Information

Located within the Mt. Tamaplais watershed in Samuel Taylor State Park, Bill’s Trail winds through native ferns, wildflowers and hazelnut trees. It averages a reasonable 7-percent grade, and its six switchbacks provide riders with multiple views of the surrounding landscapes. While it is expected that bike access on Bill’s Trail will be limited to alternate days at first, the parks department states that this stipulation will be open to further review.

California State Parks is expected to announce opportunities for bicycling on other nearby routes in upcoming months. The Diaz Ridge Trail, which runs through Mt. Tamalpais State Park and Golden Gate National Recreation Area property, is scheduled to receive a major reroute this summer. This project could produce shared-use singletrack joining State Parks and National Park Service properties.

A small number of local hiking and equestrian groups have vowed to fight against any new access for mountain biking in Marin County, despite plentiful evidence that well-designed trails can be successfully shared by various user groups, and that mountain biking is a sustainable, low-impact form of recreation. “I think that, broadly speaking, the community of trail users in Marin is ready for this,” says IMBA California Policy Advisor Tom Ward. “We have seen great success with our volunteer mountain bike patrol program there. Mountain bikers care deeply about protecting the gorgeous trails and natural areas in Marin, and we will continue working with like-minded groups.”

• February 18, 2009 -- The San Juan and Candy Store Mountain Bike Trail
• February 17, 2009 -- Last Day to Support Bikes in National Parks
• August 28, 2008 -- Riding Green – 10 Tips for Riding Responsibly