Stan’s NoTubes ZTR 355 32-hole Rims Review

Weight as built: 2556 grams (full set, with tires, sealant, no cassette, no skewers, no rotors)

MSRP as built: $720.00

Wheel weight only (as quoted):  1420 grams

NoTubes products aren’t new on the mountain biking scene, but they sell one of those product lines that generate a lot of controversy in the cycling universe. Much like all other subjective controversies, you’ll get a different story from every mountain biker you speak to. Some love them unconditionally, talking about their tubeless setup like they witnessed its birth. Others will tell you it’s all hype and you’re wasting your time on a potentially dangerous product. Well, after polling my local group of dedicated bike geeks and digging through other popular (and generally misinformed–no names, not yet) mountain bike product review websites, I’ve concluded that most riders criticizing Stan’s products typically have their wheels set up incorrectly–be it for their weight or for their style of riding. It seems to be a weight saving issue–it’s always the 250-pound rider that wants to sport the Olympic lightweight racing rim, and then bitch when they get a blowout or can’t keep the tire seated to the rim in a tight corner. Does anyone else find it strange that the Clydesdales are always the weight weenies? I’m no scientist, despite holding dual PhDs in Sweet Lovin’ and Good Times, but there seems to be a correlation worth investigating. Also, let the record show that I float slightly above or below the Clydesdale high-water mark of 200 lbs., so I take my weight-to-durability ratio very seriously.  Read more

Derailleur Hanger Alignment

In the early days of index shifting when the first systems were 6,7, and 8 speeds, derailleur hanger alignment was important, but not crucial to shifting. Due to the wider spacing between cogs, the derailleur hanger could be bent slightly, and the derailleur might still shift reasonably well. However, with the new 9 speed mountain bike cassettes (10 and now 11 speed for road), proper derailleur hanger alignment is absolutely imperative. Even a slight deviation of the hanger can cause incorrect shifting, and also cause the derailleur to shift into the spokes of the wheel, or jam the chain between the cassette and frame.

Whenever I build a new bicycle, I always check the derailleur hanger for alignment. Without fail, they are slightly bent (or worse) every single time. This cannot be avoided due to the initial fabrication of most frames, transportation, etc. A common mistake made by riders is to think, “I just bought a new hanger, so I will bolt it on and it will be straight.” The logic seems correct, but this does not take into account the fact that surface of the frame where the new hanger attaches is not necessarily aligned (usually it isn’t).

The replaceable derailleur hanger is a relatively new item, but it has saved many frames from the junkyard. In a crash, if the derailleur is near the smallest cogs, the derailleur will become bent severely – causing the hanger to become bent in the process. The replaceable hanger is designed to bend easily or break off in the event of a crash. Steel frames without a replaceable hanger can usually be bent back, unless the threaded hole has become elongated from an extreme bend. Aluminum will fatigue and fail after only a few cycles of bending. In the event that a non-replaceable derailleur hanger on an aluminum frame is bent, extreme care is required when it is aligned. There is a high likelihood that it will snap. Regardless, the hanger will be weakened, and will be more likely to bend in the future.

To achieve proper hanger alignment, a derailleur hanger alignment gauge is used. Using the rear wheel of the bicycle as a reference, the gauge is used to bend the hanger so that the hanger is in the same plane as the wheel. This is not rocket science, but it does take practice to prevent breaking the hanger. Due to the cost of the tool, it is probably best to have the alignment checked by a qualified shop when there is an issue with shifting, or after a crash.

Top 9 Ways To Make That Old Bike Feel New Again

Originally Posted on MTBTrailReview.com by Robb Sutton (aka 198)

Are you getting the new bike “I wants?” Everyone gets these from time to time and some of us get it more than others! It is a natural occurrence with cyclists as new products come to the market with the promise of being the next great design that will make you that great rider you have always wanted to be.

Do parts make you better? Sometimes…but being into the gear is part of the sport. There are plenty of riders on very expensive bikes that never tap into the bike’s full potential. This is not a bad thing…

But here you are…wanting the feeling of that new ride but don’t have the cash to make it happen right now. What is the cyclist that is starving for that new bike ride do to help the craving? He (or she) makes their current ride feel new again. Here are some much less expensive ways to make that “old” ride feel new again.

Why 9 ways?! Doesn’t a list like this normally have nice round numbers like 10? Well…I do realize that I do not have all of the answers, so I want you guys to fill in #10 in the comment section below. I learn something new every day and I have always come across a fellow rider that looks at things in a different light than I do. So let’s here what you guys have to say on the subject!

#1 – Time For A Tune-Up!

That’s right! Sometimes…something as simple as performing a complete tune-up can give your bike that off the showroom floor feeling. Many times, I see an event take place that I like to call…”A build up of tolerances.” By themselves, each of these slightly out of tune parts may go unnoticed during a normal ride. When you add several components together that are out of whack, this can cause the entire bike to feel off. Taking care of all of the mis-adjusted parts at once with a full tune-up will make your bike feel much better on the trail.

Don’t work on your own bike? Take it to a local bike shop to get the work done. Check on your local online forums or ask riders at the local trail head for the best shops in the area. Don’t always assume that the shop closest to your house or work is best for the job.

You can also check out this post on the “Top 10 Tips To Keeping Your Bike Running Smoothly” for more suggestions.

#2 – Replace Cables

Worn out shifter cables will degrade shifting performance. When your bike is not shifting correctly, it can really ruin a ride. Replacing all of the cables and housings will bring your shifting performance back up to where you expect it to perform. Most times, you may not even realize how bad it has really gotten until you change them out. I use the Shimano XTR cables on my personal rides. The performance vs. value is hard to beat.

Keep in mind, with new cables…you will have to do some minor adjusting after the first couple of rides to account for the initial new cable stretch.

#3 – Replace Drivetrain

What is included with the drivetrain? The rear cassette, chain and chainrings. It is recommended that you change out all of these parts at once because they essentially wear into each other. Replacing one component at a time can cause pour performance do to the wear of the other related parts. A new drivetrain makes the performance of your shifting and pedaling as efficient as it used to be.

What do I use?

SRAM 990 Cassette, SRAM 991 Chain and Blackspire SuperPro Chainrings (24/34/Bashguard)

#4 – Rebuild Suspension Components

The suspension system is your communication with the ground (minus wheels, tires and your body). Poorly performing suspension components can make the bike feel harsh and in certain situations can actually hurt the ride. Rebuilding a suspension fork or rear shock normally includes things like fluid change, seal replacement, replacement of worn parts, cleaning, etc. Once a suspension component is rebuilt and set for your riding weight/sag, it can feel like new again and your ride will completely change.

Where do I get this done? For a simple factory rebuild, some LBS’s will do it or at least send it back to the manufacturer for you. I really like the job that the guys over at Push Industries put together. Not only is it a rebuild, but it can also be a tune that is specifically spec’ed to you and your riding style. I don’t think Push has ever seen an unhappy customer. If you really want to feel your shock come alive…send it to those guys. Stay tuned for an exclusive interview with Darren from Push later this month.

#5 – Upgrade Parts

Minor or major upgrades can make a huge difference. For me…there is a hierarchy of parts that make the most difference and rank the highest in importance.

Wheels – Poor wheels can make even a great frame feel terrible. This simple upgrade can increase the quality of your ride more than any other single component in my opinion. A stiffer build will hold lines better…a lighter build will decrease rolling resistance so you can pedal easier…more engagement will help in technical situations…the list just goes on and on. One of the better advantage about investing in a better set of wheels is that you can move them from bike to bike. Talk to a reputable wheel builder about which set will be the best for your needs. I normally recommend Kovachi Wheels or Chad at Red Barn Bikes.

Brakes – Brakes not only stop your bike, but they control the ride. I love brakes that have superior modulation because they allow you to control turns and technical riding with ease. Typical “on/off” feeling brakes do not do this as well. On the top end…Hope or Formula is hard to beat. If you are a budget minded rider…take a look at the Avid Juicy’s.

Suspension – Like I said in #4, your suspension is how you communicate with the ground. Upgrading these components (fork and shock) will completely change how your bike rides. Just keep in mind two things: 1) For the shock, get the same eye to eye and stroke measurement as the shock you take off. 2) Try to stay as close to the same travel on the fork as the previous one you had installed. Going above or below this measurement will change how the bike rides, and in some cases…voids the warranty.

#6 – Clean Bike

Proven fact – A bike does not ride well with mud and dirt caked into a bunch of moving parts. Mud and dirt also act like sandpaper against components, so cleaning your bike regularly is a good idea anyway. Get rid of that extra weight and clean it! Suzuki Motorcycle Wash and a fresh lubing will make everything function properly for a long time to come.

#7 – Try A Different Configuration

Has your riding style changed from cross country to all mountain? That 120mm stem may be hurting you in technical sections. Try switching to a 100mm or 90mm to get more stability. Have you really gotten into those steep climbs lately? Try a longer stem to get your weight farther forward.

The truth is that our riding styles change over time with our preferences. This means that your previous stem/post/seat configuration may not be suitable to your current riding style. Try changing things up a little bit and see what happens. You may find that you are really happy with the results.

#8 – Try New/Different Tires

Tires are may favorite part to switch and try something new. Why? They are historically cheaper than most other components and they really change how the bike acts on the trail. There are more options for the mountain biking market today than there has ever been. I normally like the tires out of the Maxxis, Schwalbe and Kenda line-up but if you see a tread pattern that strikes your interest…give them a try.

The trend lately is to go for larger volume tires. Their weight has come down a lot over the past year or two and they provide more traction and bump absorption. As a by-product of the higher volume, you can normally run lower pressures without pinch flats. If you haven’t tried a set of the larger volume (2.25 and up)…now is the time!

#9 – Pro Fitting

As discussed in this article, a pro fitting can make your bike perform exactly how you want it to. A pro fitting can also get rid of any small annoyances during a ride like back pain. Get in touch with a LBS in your area to see where a fitting might be available. Most of these will normally include a laser system to get it exactly how you need it. Many things that we sometimes take for granted (like cleat placement on your shoes) are placed with precision.

#10 – ______________

There you have it…my top 9 ways to make that old ride feel new again. Here is your chance to share how you make your ride have that new bike feel all over again. Let’s hear it!

Going the Distance…The Tools and Gear to Bring With You on Your Next Long Distance Journey

You’re a seasoned veteran of the mountain bike and as you seek new adventures in untamed wilderness. BE PREPARED! Minimal first aid and backup supplies may work for the trail rider, but for those long adventures it is very important to be ready for any problems nature may throw at you… your life may depend on it. One of the main considerations with anything regarding bikes is weight and size. More gear adds weight, and nobody wants to carry a huge pack. By finding items that can fulfill a variety of uses you can drastically cut the weight and size of your emergency gear. I have designed this guide for the minimalist rider. It will give you the essential tools you need to survive, but you may want to further your knowledge and your gear selection depending on your needs and wilderness experience.

Bike Operation
Bike operation is simply what you need to keep your bike operational. A breakdown 30 miles from any civilized help can be a real issue. If you are reading this you probably have all of the essentials like the multi tool, tubes, patches, air pump and whatever else. One great tool you should include for your next adventure is a good multi-tool (as in a Gerber or Leatherman foldout, not the bike multi tool). The pliers on these can help you bend broken spokes out of the way or provide an improvised tool to fix a host of problems. Not to mention the screwdriver, knife and other attachments give you more options and wider variety of tools to fix whatever. Other things to carry are a spoke wrench, extra spokes, a tire boot if you don’t already (even if you’re not running tubeless), duct tape (reroll a few feet yourself to save space), a rag, lube, a chain breaker, extra links and even a small adjustable wrench. I know it sounds like a lot, but none of these items take up very much space and they can really get you out of some tight jams. Another one of the best tools you can carry with you is knowledge. I know some people don’t like to, but make an effort to learn how to repair your bike. There are numerous classes, books and WebPages that provide detailed instructions. The Park Tool website is one of the best, in my opinion.

First Aid
Hopefully you are already carrying the basic stuff with you. The biggest mistake I see people make is they carry only supplies like Band-Aids and ointment to take care of minor cuts and scrapes. I don’t know about you but minor cuts and scrapes aren’t really a big concern for me when I’m on the trail: On the other hand fractures, gashes and major wounds are. This is especially important when you are out blazin’ epic trails, across steep technical mountainsides, far away from civilization. On urban trails you don’t have to worry about first aid much, but as you venture farther away from civilization you usually encounter more difficult terrain and become farther from help. We take for granted the first aid services in the city and even small towns. Out in the wilderness we might be hours or days away from any aid, and that is if we can contact someone right away. If you are out of cell phone range, you may even have to hike back a ways just to send out a distress call! This is why it is so important to be prepared. Some things to bring are Band-Aids, moleskin (for blisters), duct tape (for closing large wounds in a pinch), 3M Coban (I prefer the veterinary stuff, also doubles as ACE wrap), gauze (roll it tight and put it in the center of the Coban roll), sterile dressings, large butterfly bandages, triangular bandages (many, many uses), Ibuprofen and Aspirin (take Ibuprofen to kill pain while you have a wound and Aspirin for headaches and other things…Aspirin is a blood thinner but also an anti-inflammatory), and an instant cold pack. There are many other First Aid products you can stuff in your pack, but these will allow you to stay minimalist and have the first aid gear you need for almost any situation. Splints are another good idea, but these can be improvised in the field without too much work (SAM splints are great though!). If you want to further prepare yourself, learn what to do: Take Wilderness First Aid! Many organizations offer it including the Red Cross. There are lots of options as far as First Aid classes go, but Wilderness First Aid teaches you what to do in delayed care situations, which you will be in. Standard First Aid classes teach you what you need to do to keep the victim alive until the ambulance arrives, but in the Wilderness, help may not even be coming until you go and get it.

Survival/Emergency Gear

You may find yourself in a situation where you get delayed, your bike is broken or you are injured too much to continue. A small kit of a few essentials can save your life! Some of the survival needs are water, food, shelter, first aid and signals. There are also other things like fire and human contact. The importance of each will depend on the resources on hand and what you can locate nearby. KNOW YOUR ENVIRONMENT! If it is cold and windy shelter and fire are going to be your first priority. Hot and dry means you might need to find another source of water and locate shade. Tailor your gear to your environment. Here are some essentials almost everyone should carry: A good multi-tool (I like Gerber), some rope (not string), a couple light sticks (for signaling), magnesium flint fire starter (lighters and matches suck in the wind), headlamp (Black Diamond has some of the best, with dual NiCad and AA operation, you’ll stop spending money on flashlights after you buy one), GPS (great idea to keep track of your position, Garmin has some with high gain antennas for better reception), extra batteries, water purification tablets, poncho, solar blanket, ID bracelet, duct tape (see a pattern?) map of the area, and a compass. Better yet don’t just pack ‘em, learn how to use them. Practice makes perfect and gives you the confidence you need to turn a life and death situation into a simple exercise in your problem solving skills. Read more

What You Should Have in Your First Aid Kit

It is unfortunate, but every day a biker is injured. While any injury sucks, having a first aid kit can be a very good thing. In fact a good first aid kit can mean all the difference in an emergency situation. However the off the shelf first aid kit, while good, needs a bit more added to it. This article is meant to be a guide as to what should be in a first aid kit.

The Basics:

1. Gauze bandages. These guys are great for stopping bleeding and will help the body clot the blood.
2. Band aids. There is nothing better for treating minor cuts and scrapes than a band aid.
3. First aid tape. An absolute must for attaching Gauze bandages.
4. Alcohol wipes. Treating any cut with alcohol seriously reduces the chance of infection
5. Ace Bandages. Joint injuries are unpleasant, but one of these bandages can help support an injured joint until you have time to get medical attention.
6. Tweezers. Never think that tweezers will not come in handy.
7. Tourniquet. One of the best emergency treatments of a major cut is to cut off the blood supply. While a clean tourniquet is best, wearing a bandana can serve the same purpose.

Read more

Duct Tape: It Holds the Universe Together…and Inner Tubes Too!

If there is one thing that sucks almost as much as severe bodily injury then it has to be getting a flat in the middle of the trail. While there are some articles on what to bring with you in case this happens, there is not one that actually tells you how to fix a flat when you are in the middle of no where.

In an ideal world, everyone carries enough patch kits with them to fix every flat they will ever get. However any experienced mountain bike rider will tell you that sometimes the trail gods hate you and it seems like you get a flat every time you pedal a full rotation. In these times having a roll of duck tape, a couple of flat head screwdrivers, and a tire pump are your last and final line of defense against the whiles of both the trials and their gods.

With the following steps you will learn that not only can you do an emergency flat repair, but that in some cases you can even resurrect a trashed tire long enough to get you to home base.

Minimal tools that you will need

1. Wrenches sized to the nuts on your wheels
2. Two flat head screw drivers or putty knives
3. A roll of grey duct tape
4. Tire pump

Step 1: Removing the flat tire

The first step in this process is to put the bike in a position that is comfortable for you to work on. Most people prefer the bike to be upside down using the seat and handle bars much like a bench. However some prefer to work on their bikes with the wheels on the ground, or laying side ways. It really makes little difference so long as you are comfortable.

With the correct sized wrench placed squarely on the nut, turn in a counter clockwise direction. Once the nut becomes hand loose, proceed to finger twist the nut off enough to allow the tire to be taken from its supports. Repeat this process for the other side of the tire.

Step 2: Remove the tire from the Wheel

Making sure to let out any remaining air in the tube slide either your flat head screw driver or putty knife carefully under the lip of the tire. Using the leverage provided by the edge of the wheel push slowly down on the handle of your tool until the lip of the tire is sitting over the edge of the wheel rim.

Next insert the second flat head screwdriver or putty knife and slowly push it around the edge of the tire lifting the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel rim until one edge of the tire is completely removed from the wheel rim. There may be a few areas you really need to coax the tire over, and remember to keep constant pressure on the other tool to make sure the tire does not “hide” back under the wheel rim.

Step 3: Locate the puncture

While this can be done visually and with spit, it is suggested you use some water to clean the tube first. After cleaning the tube inflate the tube with your tire pump and using all your senses locate the leak. Most leaks are pretty easy to find and will hiss fairly loudly. If you are having a hard time locating the leak use water to sparingly splash on the tube and look for bubbles created by escaping air.

Step 4: Repair the puncture

At the location of the leak take the roll of duct tape and place the edge of the tape about a half inch from the puncture. Then slowly wrap the tube two to three times. It is important to not wrap to tightly as this can cause the tube to squeeze when it is inflated. However, also pay attention not to wrap to loosely or the leak will most likely not be sealed.

There is some debate among bikers as to the correct way to use duct tape to seal a leak. Some believe it is best to wrap the tape around the are of the puncture while others feel that using a square much like a patch is a better idea. From personal experience it is better to just wrap the tube because squares tend to fall off more readily which means repeating the whole process again.

Step 5: Replace the tube back into the wheel

Again making sure the tube is out of air place the nipple into the slot in the wheel and slowly place the rest of the tube around the wheel.

Step 6: Replace Tire

Taking care not to pinch the tube replace the tire by using your palms to set the lip of the tire back into the rim of the wheel until the tire is once again in place.

Step 7: Pump up the tire

Using your tire pump, pump the tire up to your normal psi

Step 8: Get back on the trail!

Get back on the trial and try to make it back to home base quick. There is no guarantee that this patch will last long and the sooner you make it back home the better off both you and your bike are.

So there you have it. A great way to fix a flat with duct tape. If you have a patch kit handy simply follow the above directions with exception of instead of using duct tape use a patch kit instead. Most patch kits provide directions on their proper application so this should be a fairly easy process as well.

Until next time, good trails and good rides.

Mechanic Tips: Replacing Wheel Bearings

There comes a time in every rider’s life when they decide to either fix a bike on their own, or choose to modify their bike. While the professionals will tell you that you are always best off using them for these problems, both our wallets and our curiosity often propel us forward in search of greater understanding of the mechanical universe. In an effort to help you do it yourself several articles will be focused on various mechanical aspects of mountain biking.

What you will need for the following repair/modification

1. Correctly sized wrenches.
2. Bearing grease (this should be available at any bike store)
3. Wheel bearings (most should come pre assembled in the brace)

Step 1:
Using the correct size wrench remove the wheel from the frame. For front wheels this will be simple, for some rear wheel set ups you may need to remove the derailer and brake system before removing the wheel.

Step 2:
Using the correct sized wrench remove the retaining nut that is against the outside of the wheel well (where the axle goes through). At this point some bikes may require a flat head screw driver to remove the wheel well plate, while others will simply pull out. If necessary repeat this process on the other side. You know you have done it correctly when the axle of the wheel is completely removed.

Step 3:
Remove the wheel bearing brace. This will be a small circular piece of metal with several ball bearings spaced apart. Also you should find at least some grease to help reduce friction during movement.

Step 4:
After removing the replacement bearings from their package set them on a cardboard box or similar surface you do not mind getting dirty. Then open the wheel grease and scoop out a liberal amount with one hand. Next grab the replacement bearing with you clean hand and begin rubbing the grease into the bearing.

Step 5:
Continue rubbing wheel grease into the bearing for several minutes scooping out more grease as needed. You want to make sure that as much of each ball is coated in grease so that they will function correctly. Repeat this process for the other bearing.

Step 6:
After wiping your hands clean of grease replace the bearings into the wheel well. Most wheels should have groves that they align with, if they don’t, put them in there as well as you can.

Step 7:
Replace the axel assembly and tighten all nuts as needed. Make sure to not over tighten these nuts as doing so could cause problems down the road.

Step 8:
Remount wheel as specified by your particular bike manufacturer.

Step 9:
Take your bike for a ride, listen for any grinding sounds. Also you will want to make sure that your pedaling is as smooth or smoother as it was previously. If you hear either grinding or the pedaling is not smooth repeat the process and apply more wheel grease as it is very likely you did not coat the bearings well enough.

Step 10:
Enjoy the ride.

Tire Pressure: Something to Pay Attention To

Every person who has ever ridden a mountain bike wants to know the best way to get the best ride. To confuse this matter every company that has a product swears their product revolutionizes the sport of mountain biking. In fact millions of dollars a year are spent by enthusiastic mountain bikers looking to get the best ride they can. The funny thing is that while good gear is good gear, one of the easiest ways to adjust the experience of your ride is by knowing how to set the correct tire pressure.

This may seem like a no brainer, and it may also seem like it’s a very small part of the overall riding experience, but air pressure in your tires is very important to the over all quality of the ride. Physics, which controls almost every aspect of riding a mountain bike, has several laws that must be obeyed. However these rules, which must be obeyed, can also be manipulated. The key to manipulating these rules is to understand how they work and how they affect your riding experience.

The most basic law involved in riding a bike is the law of friction. Friction is the force we must fight in order to achieve even the slowest of movements. When riding a bike you are essentially operating against two forms of friction. The first is the friction between your tires and the ground, the second is the friction created by you and your bike moving through air. There are many things you can do to reduce the friction you create in the air, however, the only way to increase or reduce friction between your tires and the ground is to find ways to increase or decrease the surface area of the tire that contacts the ground. To explain this simply, less tire on the ground means less traction and friction, while more tire on the ground means more traction and more friction.

With this basic theory in hand do the following. Inflate your tire to around 35 to 40 psi. This should be almost as full as it can go without bursting. Now get on the bike and pedal around a bit. It should feel like you are having a bit of a difficult time controlling the bike, but pedaling is easy. This is because friction has been reduced, but so has traction and thus control.

Now deflate the tire around 5 psi or so. Again get on the bike and pedal around a bit. While the change may not be drastic, you should notice an increase in handling as well as an increase in effort. This is because you have created a bit more area for the tire to grab and thus increased both friction and traction.

Finally spend some time adjusting your psi until you feel the amount of effort and the amount of control are as well balanced for your riding style as they can be. For heavier people this will probably not be far below maximum while lighter people may go as far down as 25 psi (which is about the lowest you want to go). While this may seem a small change, you will notice the difference pretty quickly.

Stay tuned for the next article in the series which looks at using air pressure for specific trail conditions.